Oil level measurement invalid

[thundermaster]

?h! Is it easy for an electrician to fit a new harness?

[GiveMeABreak]

I think you need to determine if the Engine ECU is providing the correct power and the wiring in the area that was damaged before determining a course of action. Some sensors connected to the harness share the same supply from the Engine ECU, but I can't advise you on all these.

If it did come down to replacing the engine harness (20 MOT), I's suggest you label each connection plug with the sensor name and photograph as you go along, so that when you come to replace it if required, you'll find it easier to connect the new harness up correctly.

[xantia_v6]

I don't have experience of that particular engine, but in general the engine wiring harness is not easy to replace, as it was fitted to the engine before fitting to the car, and the harness often runs behind manifolds, ancillary equipment or plumbing which needs to be removed for access.

I would suggest a test for continuity and shorts back to the ECU connector would be easier.

[thundermaster]

Many thanks Marc, we will try to locate any other problem in line. The strange is that 'oil level measurement invalid' appears immediately when turning the key on.

[GiveMeABreak]

That's because it is supposed to take a measurement when the ignition is first switched on.

What actual fault codes are you getting from the diagnostic. If you have an F40A recorded in the BSI, this can happen when the coolant temperature is higher than 40 °C where no oil level measurement check takes place. If the oil level has therefore not been measured, you will get an F40A fault logged. This will disappear when the oil is next measured - usually when the ignition is next switched on and when the coolant is lower than 40 °C.

So official recommendation is to use the dipstick to manually measure the oil.

If there are other specific fault codes, let me know.

It may be that if there are no other codes and everything else is working, that you just manually check the oil periodically.

[thundermaster]

I will have a diagnostic check again and note the codes. My other problem is that I have vibration when D in the gearbox is engaged. The vibration is worse when a/c is on. Recently, my alternator belt was misplaced for second time in a month. Garage suspects also the a/c compressor because when it is on, the engine works worse and also a ticking sound is heard from the compressor(although I am not sure if part of the belt went into the compressor). I can feel the vibration also on the streering when I turn the steering in specific positions. Sometimes the car rides perfect on 80, 100 or 120 km/h. Some other times a tac tac sound is heard from the bottom right like something dances under the car. Also, some other times when I am on my way, a quick and strong sieving happens in the front axle. Is it possible the vibrations are due to a problematic drive shaft? I don't know, many problems suddenly. Maybe because I drive a lot and for the past three months we have had very high temperatures here in Greece.

[GiveMeABreak]

That may well be the accessory belt, because not only does it drive the A/C compressor, but also the alternator. The power steering is electrical, but is fed directly from the battery, so if the alternator belt is slipping, it may not be charging the battery properly and this may be giving low voltage as power is drained.

So I'd check the belt again.

[thundermaster]

I think that the taktak sound (like an old diesel engine) is heard from the alternator when I turn on the a/c. This sound is only on idle. On idle also the lights in the cabin are flickering and when I slightly push the accelerator pedal, flickering stops and also the taktak sound stops too. I had the same problem and before the replacement of the belt, about one and a half month now. Is maybe time to setvice the alternator? I start thinking that this is the problem although it appears to charge with the multimeter. Never serviced and the car has already 223.000 km.

[thundermaster]

Good evening everyone!

The car continues to vibrate on idle with flickering (like bad power). Battery replaced with new. With slight press on accelerator (1000 rpm) everything seems to become fine, even the sound from bearing of the alternator, or a/c (I cannot determine from where this sound comes, but it starts when a/c is on OR when I lift the suspension) stops.
Still no repairs have been done on the car because all garages are closed due to holidays. So today I went to an electrician who could only do an electronic diagnosis. The errors are:
P250D electric oil gauge: voltage too high,
P1674 Controlled alternator mechanics: Not characterized,
P1676 Communication with the controlled alternator: Not characterized,
U0103 Communication with the gearbox ECU, no signal,
P0010 Variable Valve Gear Solenoid Valve Command. Coherence.

BSI: 040A Oil gauge fault.
05FF Unexpected re-initialisation Fault coming from the BSI.

I remove the small 1 pin connector from the alternator and nothing happens.

Any ideas???

[thundermaster]

Problem with oil level sensor fixed. Plug was broken in a non so visible area.