I thought so too, but found myself buying a second 5 litre tub soon enough! (Should have jumped straight to a 20 litre when doing the first one)CitroJim wrote: 08 Nov 2022, 18:47 20 litres of it would last me several lifetimes Matt but good to know it works fine in BE and ML 'boxes...
I always try and change gearbox oil when I change cars (admittedly this isn't often) invariably what comes out is generally pretty foul black stuff which makes me feel all the better for changing it - despite the stink of the stuff!
It's getting to the stage where I want to swap the driveshaft seals at same time as the box oil swap. Oh and grease the gear linkages. Oh and repaint that generally always rusty mild steel 5th gear cover housing on a BE box - easier to grind clean, then paint if taken off, so a fresh bit of RTV on that joint keeping the oil in too.
About this point I wonder where my weekend has disappeared too...
On the end of of a VW golf mk2 gearbox is a cover which is frankly a golden syrup tin lid but with a VW roundel in the centre (replacements priced significantly above Tate and Lyle's version, and sadly they are different diameters - I did check!). I scraped a load of accumulated muck off said lid. On my return home I found I couldn't get it easily into 1st as pulled into the driveway. Then I found the box dry and that dotted line along my route took weeks to fade! I don't think that would have done many miles without oil.
I have often read that 75W90 versus the correct 75W80 is a significantly downgrade in BE4 performance - though I have also seen numerous parts websites recommend 75W90 for these.
My reason for seeking out synthetic was that I believe it should hold its viscosity or rather not thicken up as much as a mineral equivalent at low temperatures. Don't have any quantifiable evidence of if that makes any difference in practice (or just being rid of the old black muck is an improvement enough in its own right)
Matt
Interesting stuff... Keep it coming 
