C3 locked and remote not working?

[GiveMeABreak]

No worries, but do have a loom at the post Wheeler linked to on the previous page for how to get in via rear windows if they are manually operated

[Carl170]

Well another part to the saga today.

I replaced the battery in the fob which made no difference, but at least I know the battery is new!

I managed to user air wedges to open the rear door enough to get some tools in to wind the window down. I found the best tool was actually a long garden cane, rather than any of the car tools I have!

My daughter then climbed in and popped the Bonnet open and used a screwdriver to open the boot.

Batter was charged up and reconnected. Car started fine but central locking didn’t work. I paired the fob, and reconnected the battery in the battery box and cover. Fob didn’t work again, but I had wound a window down and managed to start car and unlock it.

I am going to leave it unlocked at the moment as I dont trust the car not to do it again. The driver side lock still doesn’t work, so I will need to have a look at that again.

Thanks all for your help so far @giveneabreak!

Regards
Carl

[Hell Razor5543]

If the key is the right one for the locks (as well as the ignition) you might want to spray some 3 in 1 oil into the locks AND the lock mechanism. I have recently had a change of car, and the driver door lock started sticking. I used a can of 3 in 1 oil (you can get a small spray can from Poundland) on the keyhole and the latch mechanism and that seems to have resolved that problem.

[wheeler]

Does the central locking operate if you push the button on the dash when the engine is running?

[Carl170]

Yes is does lock when you push the button. It didn’t when the battery was flat. I’m going to fully charge the battery tomorrow and try to sync the fob.

What I don’t understand is that the previous battery used for to go flat all the time as the car wasn’t used that much, but the fob never failed to work. I think what annoying me is that the key doesn’t work. I will try some 3 in 1 as Hell Razor suggests.

Regards

Carl

[Carl170]

Ok, another note to add.

I charged the battery up fully and also took the car out last night to go shopping (I stayed in the car as I was still a bit paranoid about something happening!).

The key fob has connected itself back to the car with no intervention from me at all.

What I have discovered seems to be the reverse of what I have read?

If I press the lock button on the remote once, the car is deadlocked and the inner door handles are unlinked and do not work.

If I then press it again within a few seconds of the first press, it is still locked from the outside, but the handles CAN be used to open the doors. This is how I will be leaving the car in future.

I had always thought that 2 presses deadlocked the car?

Next Saturday will be spent looking at the lock and seeing if that can be fixed. Does anyone know how easy this is to access? Can the inner door panels be removed easily?

Thanks again for all the input so far, it really is much appreciated!

Regards

Carl

[wheeler]

If I remember right the Early VAN/CAN & the later Full CAN (with rectangular flip blade remote) work opposite with deadlocking one is a single press for deadlocking & the other is a single press for regular locking but I cant remember which is which but yours is VAN/CAN so that one must be single press for deadlocking.
It depends on the car how it works. On the MK2 Xsara (equipped with deadlocking) you can only deadlock with the remote no matter how many presses, if you dont want the dealocks on you need to lock with the keyblade in the door barrel.

[GiveMeABreak]

Our MK II (2007) C3 is CAN CAN and that is 2 presses to deadlock.