Xantia 2.0HDi Starter! Poor running now though

[wheeler]

1287 is a shared 12v supply to various sensors/actuators (MAF, turbo & EGR electrovalves, 3rd piston deactivator, clutch switch) fed from the double relay. The O2 sensor heater elements (and other things) would be fed from this on equivalent petrol models, part of it may be a standardized harness?
The electrovalves should have a constant power supply when the engine is running & then they are earth switched by the ECU.

[GiveMeABreak]

I've also had a squiz for the location of 1253 and cannot see it either...

[Rhothgar]

Guys

All done and dusted.

Been tinkering this morning with ECU’s.

Have transferred immobiliser chip from old duff ECU (Original to car) to replacement RHZ 0281010251 06 ECU and car starts and ran first time

Will transfer flash chip over some other time .

Immobiliser fully operational.

Switched wires on EV’s on top of engine and it now revs smoothly through the range and the turbo is operating albeit with its now distinctive ringing sound as it spins down.

So I am now on the lookout for a replacement turbo unit to sort that but hopefully if it explodes it won’t cause mass destruction if it disintegrates.

[admiral51]

[white exec]

Well done in getting that sorted. Re-jigging of ECUs is not for the feint-hearted.
In your second photo, looks as if one of the little perishers is making a break for freedom...

[Rhothgar]

Cheers guys for all your help and advice.

It’s great to be able to bounce thoughts off each other and learn new stuff.

The second photo is the chip removed from the duff ECU. Thought I’d include it for reference so you can see where the immobiliser chip is in case any of your ECU’s suffer the same fate.

[CitroJim]

Wow! That's excellent and awesome work Roger Take a bow sir!

I am absolutely delighted Well done!

[Rhothgar]

Taken a picture of my engine and looks different from yours

Is that for your 2.0HDi Xantia? Presumably yours is 90bhp? Totally different configuration.

I see no EV's on yours at all. Quite strange.

[Rhothgar]

I think I have posted this previously for your vehicle, but just in case not:

You did kindly in another post but at the time I was unaware of my RPO as the car was up at my mate's garage. I've since realised that it's the wrong diagram. I've not checked to see if it's out much but that it is from the 1999 Electrical Diagrams. I unearthed my RPO8435 onwards manuals and it's 12.12 in that manual. I've gone and left them in the kitchen downstairs and had intended to bring them upstairs to comment further and accurately.

Wire 1287 (fuel additive pump temperature sending unit) from 1253 (all or nothing solenoid valve (EGR)) seems to terminate as 123 / 123a (123 states: control heating lambda sensor B upstream catalytic converter). Now this engine doesn't have an additive system - so what does wire 1287 (fuel additive pump temperature sending unit) do and is this the reason it does not exist?......

Not sure where you're seeing this "fuel additive pump temperative sending unit", Marc. But wire 1287 does indeed exists. It splices into a common 12V supply which, as Wheeler, states feeds all manner of actuators. The wiring diagram you provided back in Feb albeit the wrong year did in fact help me to get the car started in the first instance. Wire 1287 doesn't terminate at the fuse box. The fuse is fed from one side of the double relay and the common denominator of all my woes back then was the corrosion of Pin 86 which had disintegrated if you recall and thereby severed one of the earths to one side of the relay.

Wire 1256 (Exhaust gas recycling solenoid valve command) from 1253 goes to pin 52 of the injection ECU - so does that wire exist in the Engine ECU and if so, can you follow it back to locate 1253?

That's a good bit of clear thinking there Marc. People like you sort the wheat from the chaff. I shall check that before I finally seal the ECU back up. Luckily I didn't have any cable ties else it would have been fully resecured earlier this afternoon.

[Rhothgar]

Well done in getting that sorted. Re-jigging of ECUs is not for the feint-hearted.
In your second photo, looks as if one of the little perishers is making a break for freedom...

Cheers Chris.

It was only a bit of desoldering and soldering in the end.

One interesting spot was when I desoldered the chip from the ECU which was going to receive my original immobiliser chip I noticed two perfectly formed blobs of a translucent red glue or holding paste. At first, I thought it was some kind of optical eye as one was sitting on a copper track. I thought to transmit a code optically perhaps.

When I first attempted to resolder the immobiliser chip back on, I noticed it was very slightly tilted and one leg was not sitting on its respective pad so I desoldered, warmed the red blobs up and gingerly started to try and scrape them off. They were crystalline in texture for sure.

Anyway, once I had done that the resoldered chip sat nicely on the pads.

As you can imagine, I checked my soldering several times before committing to screw the ECU back together!

I tried a couple of time unsuccessfully last night to desolder the chip with a soldering iron. In the end, it made sense to travel up to my mate's and use his hot air rework station. The chips were off in 20-30 seconds. Nice and clean. Having the right kit available to me made the job so much easier. I may one day invest in a decent-ish rework station.

Wheeler ultimately saved the day spotting I had put the connectors the wrong way around. This is the problem with tinkering at a distance and then putting it down for a few weeks. It is so easy to forget what you have done. Luckily, I do take plenty of photos and videos. I just forget to refer back to them.

Just need to scope the electrovalves now to check they are working. I am getting a reading off the turbo one of around 88% with the engine running. The other two are stuck at 5%. I suppose they only affect emissions. The engine still runs cleaner than an XUD.

I need to invest a bit more time sorting a few other things out. MAF sensor is shot too. So very tempted to buy a cheap Chinese one TBH. Mind you! Now that I have scoping skills, a good used one is easy enough to test. I could even take my laptop and scope around scrapyards, fit and verify there and then. BINGO!

[wheeler]

Have we been using the wrong RP number the whole time?
What is the correct RP just out of curiosity?

[Rhothgar]

Yes but I probably didn't know it at the time and just said it was over 8000.

I find out what it is and let you know. It's in the 87xx range I think.

[GiveMeABreak]

RPO: 08744

[andy5]

Wheeler ultimately saved the day spotting I had put the connectors the wrong way around. This is the problem with tinkering at a distance and then putting it down for a few weeks. It is so easy to forget what you have done. Luckily, I do take plenty of photos and videos. I just forget to refer back to them.

Even supposedly professionals can make such mistakes, or worse.

Years ago I had a reconditioned engine fitted in a Triumph 2.5PI

On collection it ran awfully, so I looked at it at home. Two ignition leads were swapped 60° out of phase, and one wasn't attached at all. Worse, not in effect, but as an expression of the sheer incompetent dont-know-just-guess mentality involved, they'd replaced the worn distributor (with my agreement), and the new one came without a vacuum advance mechanism, so instead of just blanking the manifold port off with a plug, the pipe was pushed onto the bare thread end of the distributor clamp bolt.

I went back, and they introduced a new staff member who'd come from working at a Ferrari dealer, and good at sorting things out. He could see the problems just by looking, but I forced him to endure a year drive as well. Apology, fix, and a modest refund. After that I couldn't understand the great ratings I'd seen for the firm in a couple of magazine reviews.

I'm reading through this thread a couple of times, as my Xantia was a bit down on power, as if the turbocharger or its control system were a bit off, and just now won't start at all.

[Rhothgar]

Wheeler ultimately saved the day spotting I had put the connectors the wrong way around. This is the problem with tinkering at a distance and then putting it down for a few weeks. It is so easy to forget what you have done. Luckily, I do take plenty of photos and videos. I just forget to refer back to them.

Years ago I had a reconditioned engine fitted in a Triumph 2.5PI
I'm reading through this thread a couple of times, as my Xantia was a bit down on power, as if the turbocharger or its control system were a bit off, and just now won't start at all.

Straight 2.5PI. Great engine. A bit heavy but torque assuming it was 6 cylinder. Cannot recall if they were. Lucas 25D6 dizzy on those I imagine. Same as my Vitesse Convertible. Lucas Mechanical Fuel Injection developed for the Monte Carlo rally apparently some years before.

If you have a Lexia, check your air flow meter readings. Car will run but it makes a big difference. If you see 5% on both EGR Valve and EGR Throttle Valve at idle, I'd say it's pretty likely the air flow meter needs swapping out especially if you have P0100 DTC.

I'm thinking of ways to upload a couple of videos of mine. Swapped AMM, MAF, AFM, whatever you prefer to call it, out and it runs much stronger now. Still got a solenoid valve issue I suspect but will hopefully tend to that at the weekend when I can get onto a ramp.