And so it goes on! Intermittent power loss and stalling

[MikeT]

I have to state again though that how if it is air ingress could the system purge itself and then restart as if nothing had ever happened.

The pump and fuel system is designed to purge air, in case of running out of fuel. They even supply a handy manual primer to expidite the process.

[Rhothgar]

Thanks MikeT. I am aware of the bulb but I can't understand the suggestion that air is perhaps getting in and killing the engine and then, without hand priming, it is miraculously restarting.

[Jaf]

I had a problem with my car stalling, but restarting perfectly. So easily that I could start her whilst still going along the road. It first became a problem at a particular place, going downhill and braking. After a while the problem also occurred on the flat.

It was then that I finally found a leak/ air ingress on the fuel filter housing. Glued it and it’s been fine every since, must be a couple of years now.

[MikeT]

Thanks MikeT. I am aware of the bulb but I can't understand the suggestion that air is perhaps getting in and killing the engine and then, without hand priming, it is miraculously restarting.

I'm guessing but I think the answer lies in the science of fluid dynamics, especially under varying pressures (provided by a running pump), which are of course absent if the engine isn't running.

ie, watch a freshly poured pint of guinness and see the bubbles fall to the bottom

[CitroJim]

Roger, it won't be the stop solenoid! I'd not worry about that one any further as it won't be the ignition switch as it does not require a significant current to operate it...

Intermittent problems with them are vanishingly rare and indeed, generally they're very reliable... Endure you're looking at the right thing if you test further. The stop solenoid is on top of the cast iron distributor head at the back of the pump... The bit with four metal pipes coming out of it...

As long as it's seeing 12v when the ignition is on all is fine...

[Rhothgar]

The stop solenoid is on top of the cast iron distributor head at the back of the pump... The bit with four metal pipes coming out of it...

As long as it's seeing 12v when the ignition is on all is fine...

Oh! Then what is the solenoid on the front (or side in your perspective, Jim)?

I'll take a photo as that will help.

I'm sure I read somewhere that the stop solenoid has one wire. The solenoid on the side has. The stop solenoid on the distibutor head has two (as I would have expected). It's impossible to get in and pull the cover off that one so I think I'll leave it alone.

Jaf. Your symptoms sound worryingly like mine. Did you spot leakage from the fuel filter housing? That valve on the side as I recall?

Think it is time to put the battery in N707 MGP and resurrect that. Never missed a beat. Just a very scruffy car and now even scruffier as it's been standing for nearly 5 years!

[Rhothgar]

The stop solenoid is on top of the cast iron distributor head at the back of the pump... The bit with four metal pipes coming out of it...

As long as it's seeing 12v when the ignition is on all is fine...

Oh! Then what is the solenoid on the front (or side in your perspective, Jim)?

I'll take a photo as that will help.

I'm sure I read somewhere that the stop solenoid has one wire. The solenoid on the side has. The stop solenoid on the distibutor head has two (as I would have expected). It's impossible to get in and pull the cover off that one so I think I'll leave it alone.

Jaf. Your symptoms sound worryingly like mine. Did you spot leakage from the fuel filter housing? That valve on the side as I recall?

Think it is time to put the battery in N707 MGP and resurrect that. Never missed a beat. Just a very scruffy car and now even scruffier as it's been standing for nearly 5 years! But clutch was done and brake discs and pads all round so they should be all good. I only stopped using it because it had a very minor lumpy idle on start-up in -26 degrees.

[CitroJim]

Roger, that one will be your cold advance actuator and you'll only see volts on that one when the coolant is below 60 degrees or so...

I don't believe yours even has an ECU... Do you have a keypad? can't recall now...

[Rhothgar]

Roger, that one will be your cold advance actuator and you'll only see volts on that one when the coolant is below 60 degrees or so...

I don't believe yours even has an ECU... Do you have a keypad? can't recall now...

You're cock on there, Jim! I thought it might be for that though not sure how it works because it has the usual waxstat in the filter housing casting and the cable to control idle. Presumably it does something internally to advance the ignition at 1500rpm when cold. Yes! It gives 0V when hot.

Mine only has the brake ECU. It doesn't have the immobiliser keypad.

[CitroJim]

Excellent Roger! Having no ECU makes it easier...

Cold advance is controlled by the glowplug relay/controller...

[Rhothgar]

Excellent Roger! Having no ECU makes it easier...

Cold advance is controlled by the glowplug relay/controller...

Which is why I am mortified that something intermittent is occurring! So having regard for that, what is your best guess? Air ingress like so many others have suggested? I just cannot see how it can be intermittent and so why I believe electrics are involved. I really cannot for the life of me understand how air ingress can be intermittent although a clean total loss of power almost definitely points to fuel starvation.

If you recall, you were doubtful that the relay mod would work because the contacts were SO far gone.

[Hell Razor5543]

It could still be a clogged in tank strainer. Have you checked it?

[CitroJim]

The ignition switch is fine if the blower is ok. It's very unlikely to be that unless all electrics die with the power loss.

James is right. Look at fuel starvation rather than an electrical problem Roger.

[Rhothgar]

It could still be a clogged in tank strainer. Have you checked it?

Not yet as I've lost the will to live!

[Rhothgar]

OK. So! Looking for the tank strainer I believe it is under here:-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/afdfrfp1lk5nd ... 6.jpg?dl=0

My issue is the car has only had one owner from new before me and I have already tarnished this cover by sticking a screwdriver under it. I hate that. I would like this car to remain looking untouched. (This is my OCD kicking in, Jim!) How do I actually remove it with ease please? I have managed to rotate it counter-clockwise but it doesn't want to lift.

Next, this is the filter:-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yex36dw2qktmv ... 1.jpg?dl=0

I would say it doesn't look too bad though I have never changed it in 20000 miles. I don't want to change things unnecessarily. It's robust and did not disintegrate in my hands like some have before. You'll see the dirty lower half.

Thirdly, the last injector looks as though it is oilier than the others and I am sure there was a teeny-weeny bubble:-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j4qp1zxyodew7 ... 9.jpg?dl=0

What is the best way to clean off all the diesel in that area so I have a blank canvas. There is a tiny pool of diesel adjacent to it.

And finally, here is the car's specific pump to show wiring of the solenoids (just in case we need to refer back to it):-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ck3769stfwf8y ... 0.jpg?dl=0