doseour valve

[martscar]

And if you have time, what would you say the best method for draining it is please, got in a mess last time. Thank you. Martin

[Hell Razor5543]

Lack of knowledge is not something to be embarrassed about. We all have to start learning somewhere.

You should be able to get hydraflush from GSF. You do everything in the way you would if replacing the LHM, but you are using hydraflush instead. It does clean out the pipework, valves, etc., but the results are not always obvious (and can take time to happen, a bit like soaking something that is very dirty!).

I hope that this link works;

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/980pc0130" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I cheat when draining the reservoir. I have a small hand pump which will get most of the fluid out. The following post covers most of the rest you need to know;

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... 22&t=24595" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[addo]

Irrespective of mileage, 2-3 years on a car can be typical sphere life. I would suggest testing the aforementioned ones on a sphere tester - there's no substitute for hard data.

Then I'd make sure the tank to pump line wasn't sucking in any air - a frequent cause of this, is a split where the pipe fits onto the reservoir spigot.

After that I'd bleed the snot out of the brakes. At least a pint per corner. If the front brake flexes aren't weeping they're OK.

[martscar]

Blimey, a pint per corner. Ok, so am I best to go to GSF for fluid and flush or Citroen. Gsf is a 50 mile round trip and Citroen seem expensive. I feel confident the spheres are fairly good so I will concentrate on the brakes for now. Handy tip about removal of fluid though. Hoses are not leaking so if bleed flow is good I will leave them
My thanks for the help,I feel more confident that I can resolve this now

[Hell Razor5543]

I don't believe that Citroen carry hydraflush any more (well, the Reading dealership doesn't). I would get both hydraflush and 5l of LHM at the same time (yes, expensive, but saves on multiple trips). I would also check that your local GSF have hyraflush in stock first.

[citronut]

dont a local to you garage/workshop you know/deal with use GSF, if they do ask if you could order the hydraflush/citro blood

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/980pc0130" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and have it delivered there for you to pick up,

[martscar]

GSF I have just found out, have opened a branch only 15 miles away. Is it safe to use their LHM because if so, I will get the flush and fluid from them. It's gona get done either way as long as it is safe to use either manufacturer without concern.Cheers.Martin

[Hell Razor5543]

I believe that only Total make the hydraflush, and I am using Comma LHM+. I have used Morris LHM in the past without any problems. If the LHM from GSF is Total then it is not going to be a problem (as Citroen/Peugeot recommend Total fluids).

[Northern_Mike]

There's various ebay sellers selling 5 litres of Comma LHM for £23.99 delivered..

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

[citronut]

GSF do sell Total and Morris oils citro blood, both are good,

Citroen Classics sell

http://shop.citroenclassics.co.uk/hydra ... s-51-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and citro blood

Unit 8 Tims Boatyard, Timsway,
Staines upon Thames,
Middlesex
TW18 3JY

[Old-Guy]

Going back to the brakes: did you make sure the 'pips' on the backing plates of the new outer front pads were correctly located in the piston cut-outs? There are 4 cut-outs arranged in the form of a cross, the two opposing parallel sided slots are for winding the piston back, the larger curved cut-outs are to locate the pad 'pips'. The whole idea is that the pads thus stop the piston being rotated by the hand-brake self-adjuster. If the 'pip' sits on the rim of the pad, that pad will provide no braking but strangely the piston won't rotate so that the pip drops into a cut-out.
The VSX's N/S/F outer pad had been mis-fitted before I bought it - the car pulled badly to the off-side on braking. MoT fail. Trouble was it had been like that for a while so one pad was worn at an angle but new front pads (must be changed as a complete set) sorted the problem.

[martscar]

I didn't know it was possible to put the pads in without locating them properly. At one stage I was trying with it slightly misaligned and it seemed to only go in a precise position , like you say, into the slot. The brakes are very even but it will be worth a check when I get at em. Thing is without the special kit they use now ,how can the ordinary Joe put a percentage on them. I can remember them having more grip with less foot pressure but that's it.
I think fluid change is a good start point followed a pad check and then bleeding. Some good input,thanks

[Hell Razor5543]

If you are going to use hydraflush you will be able to tell when it is coming through (when you bleed the brakes) as it had a pinkish colour, as opposed to bright green (for new LHM).

Just a silly thought. Are you sure you got the right brake bits for your Xantia? For example, the 90HP HDi uses one size of front disks (and pads to fit), while the 110HP HDi uses larger disks and pads.

[addo]

If you're tight you can always pop some of the bled-off fluid back in... It's not like DOT3/4 and prone to be full of moisture, just the last six inches in the tubes and what's in the caliper bodies is probably degraded by heat.

[martscar]

I made sure to get the correct discs and pads for the 110,I think they are around 280mm across whereas the 90 is around 266mm.I reckon its worth doing a full tank out and drain off/flush to be sure. It has never been flushed, although it has been drained and cleaned.Never struck me that it looked bad ,just not bright green anymore