Removing Drive shaft nut from a Xantia

[the_weaver]

Snapping one of those is an impressive feat Xac.

If the handbrake is on the front wheels, then the chocks should still help to stop the car moving forward.

I remember reading somwhere (Haynes manual maybe), about using a device bolted to the front wheel, which had a steel bar going down directly to the ground. That would remove the springiness in the tyre. The idea is to remove any springiness, and get everything solid.

Paul

[Jim2.0Hdi]

A good length of scaffold pipe slid over the 'strong arm' will most likely do the job and allow you to 'firmly but slowly' undo the nut using minimum effort. The shorter the bar, the greater the effort .... the greater the jolt when the nut finally comes undone.

[Gibbo2286]

If you're anywhere near to me (GL15 6LE) I have a 3/4"sq drive bar and a tubular jack handle that'll undo them, I've never had any problem.
If the brake's not adequate chock all four wheels.

[Tony Quinn]

I have had this problem on my previous Xantias. All the advice re. chocking and using a 3/4" socket and bar is dead right. I have also found that heating up the nut with a butane blow torch for a couple of minutes, then spraying it with something like Plus Gas or WD40 (lots of smoke!), repeating this once or twice, then trying again when hot with no Plus Gas/WD40. Although both the nut and the shaft heat together, it does seem that the nut expands more than the shaft, so it really helps to shift this xxxxxxxxxx thing! Good luck.

Tony

[reblack68]

3/4" drive socket is definitely the way to go, the flex in a 1/2" drive breaker bar scares me when doing driveshaft nuts. It doesn't have to be quality gear, the strength comes from the bulk so the quality of materials is less important than with smaller tools. If I didn't have access to a 3/4 set at work I would buy one of the cheap sets off Amazon.

[Rhothgar]

Shame they are not left handed thread.

You could put the suspension on high. Support the breaker bar on an axle stand and then lower the suspension. That would crack it!!!

[Old-Guy]

with a butane blow torch for a couple of minutes, then spraying it with something like Plus Gas or WD40 (lots of smoke!

And a very dangerous flash explosion if the 'smoke' (oil vapour) reaches the blow torch flame! Think Napalm!

Use cold water instead - it's safe, free and a much more powerful coolant!

Although both the nut and the shaft heat together, it does seem that the nut expands more than the shaft,

The expansion and shock cooling break the corrosion (or destroy the thread-lock). I was taught this trick nearly 50 years ago by an old and wise diesel engineer, I've successfully used it many times since on all sort of otherwise immovable threads. As Tony says you may need to repeat the process several times. Make sure you cool it completely each time and use as focussed a source of heat as possible (oxy-acetylene torch is best!) - it's really just the NUT you want to heat, but of course the heat is rapidly conducted into the shaft, bearings, seals, hub , grease ..... (not ideal).

The final trick in the mix (3/4" socket on long breaker bar, supported on jack, fire and water, standing on the breaker bar) is to hold a big sledge hammer by the handle end a foot or two directly above the breaker bar (well away from your feet) and let go! If necessary, try again with the sledge raised a bit higher - it's the size of the mass that matters, not how fast it hits nor even mass x speed.

[flying clutchman]

This is very simple. First chock the front wheel securely. Next you need a 3/4 drive T-bar, not breaker bar, and a 3/4 drive socket, not a 1/2 drive socket with an adapter. This needs to be extended with a piece of scaffold pole about 2ft long over the end. Now stand on the end and if neccessary bounce up and down. This has never failed for me in several hundred applications.