Hi again.
Tested pump wiring again and i have juice to pump on ignition switch on for about 5 seconds or so (which ties in nicely with DickieG,s comment).
Obviously i was being a bit slow getting meter connected when testing before!!.
Out of curiosity i ran a feed direct from battery to pump and it does not work (didn,t want to do it until i knew which wires/terminals to connect to!!!) so it seems i have a knackered pump!!! makes diagnosing fault much easier when you know which wire to test mefinks!!!
Will be getting a new pump when i have some cash to spend!!!. Just one more thing, it says in haynes manual that when you have undone locking ring you have to reach inside tank and unclip pump before removing, can anybody throw any light on that one???
Many thanks for all the helpful comments so far!!!
Regards Steve (aka carpysmith)
1999 Xantia 2.0hdi sx (estate)
Glad to hear you're getting somewhere with this, to remove the pump disconnect the multi-plug as you've done then undo the large ring around the pump itself, you'll more than likely need to use a large screwdriver or cold chisel and hammer to turn it then having removed the securing ring its a case of simply lifting the pump out, it might need a little jiggling to get it through the hole but that's about it. When fitting the new one ensure the rubber seal isn't distorted then its a case of repeat the removal process in reverse.
Before attempting to start the engine its considered good practice to change the fuel filter and ideally the housing as well although @ something like £80 that is expensive, the idea being that the defective pump may well have deposited small metal fragments into the fuel system which will cause havoc with the main fuel pump and injectors and leave you with a much larger bill to get the engine running again. If you don't want to pay for the housing remove the filter body and give it a thorough clean to remove any debris within it, absolute cleanliness is the key here if you want to avoid the damage I've described above.
25 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
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Thanks DickieG!
Certainly hadn,t thought of changing filter/housing after doing pump but it sounds like a bloody good idea to me!!
Will certainly be changing filter and cleaning housing out when i do the job!!!
Many thanks for all the help!!
Regards
Steve.
I have seen on eBay just the pump element of the in tank pump. Most of the ads you see are for the complete unit which incorporates the fuel level sender unit. From memory the pump itself was about £65. I found this out AFTER I'd replaced the whole unit
When you come to replace the lock ring it pays to clean it thoroughly and then grease it before attempting to screw it back onto the tank. As others have suggested I used the hammer and screwdriver method to tighten the lock ring but go gently and make sure successive strikes are 180 degrees apart, this will help to equalise the tightening. A new sealing ring was about £6 from the stealer.
I've never removed the cover to the fuel tank (yet), but I'm tempted to suggest that you mark the position of the lock ring before removing, so you know whether you've tightened it sufficiently on re-assembly.
carpysmith wrote:... Out of curiosity i ran a feed direct from battery to pump and it does not work (didn,t want to do it until i knew which wires/terminals to connect to!!!) ...
This pic is from mine (Petrol) but I think they are similar.
It 's a VDO fuel pump and the wires are as seen below.
I hope this helps
C5 II 2.0i 16V - 2005 - Estate - 103KW - EW10A - Petrol - Manual
Me again,
Does anybody know whereabouts on ebay pumps without the sender unit might be located?
Thought i,d have a look for it after teds earlier post on here but can,t find any on ebay!!
Regards
Steve.
I have just had to replace the pump (Low Pressure)
I found it a wiggle and a half to get the new one in HOWEVER:
I cannot get the plastic ring to screw back up!
Of NOTE:
You have to push the pump down about 5-8 mm to seat against the springs, that is correct?
The "O" ring seal seems to become dislodged as I hold the pump down while trying to re-engage the plastic ring.
It feels like it is not going on square all the time and wants to cross thread!
It came off very easily once the first few taps with a hammer/screw driver.
What is the knack for this, as I do NOT seem to have it.
Stupidly I have started this with almost a full tank of diesel.
Hi there.
When i did the lift pump on my xantia just betore christmas i didn,t have too much trouble with it!
I found it easier to screw locking ring back on with the pump held down against the springs as you said! had to be careful with the sealing ring as it seems very easy to dislodge it from it,s seat but once the locking ring was started on it,s threads it went on ok without disturbing the seal!
With the locking ring being made of plastic i would imagine it would be quite easy to get the threads crossed, have you tried putting locking ring on without the pump and seal in place so you can make sure it screws on ok?
At least that would elimate/confirm a problem with crossed threads?
It seems to be one of those jobs where three hands would be useful!!
If the threads are crossed i would imagine the only solution would be a new locking ring??
Sorry i cant be any more help than that!! Whereabouts are you located by the way?
Regards.
Steve (aka carpysmith)
1999 Xantia 2.0hdi sx (estate)
