Positive Battery Terminal

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 06 Jul 2010, 17:40

dieseldoggy wrote: I have a few of the older types ie like the good ole days??? If any one needs one with 2 screw/bolts holding cable tight

Can you provide a link to a pic for me please? If it worked for you, I might have one off you, thanks.

wheeler · Unread post by **wheeler** » 06 Jul 2010, 18:13

citronut wrote:i dont like after market replacement battery terminals,

i preffer to find an original in good condition with the lead,

trouble is people over tighten them which streaches the lead, the jaws should not be tight together,

Fully agree with this, get an original lead/terminal. You will never get as good a contact with the screw types.

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 06 Jul 2010, 18:22

MikeT wrote:
Xac wrote:the cables go into sockets and are held in place by grub screws.
I'd appreciate a photo of the cable going into the socket, if you could oblige next time you're with the car please Andy? There's little room for leverage on mine and I've got some "extras" and fuseholders piggybacking off it as it is with plans to add another one or two in the near future. Was the socket large enough to accept all the conductor wires ok?

Meanwhile, I'm off to look for these voltmeter types...

Will get you some photos as soon as I can.

There are 3 sockets for the wires, two small and one large (you can get others with more), and then there is the screw post on top which is very handy for attaching extra lines for the headlight relay mod or a new horn relay

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 06 Jul 2010, 19:04

i did see once an after market terminal with two grub screws, but they pressed down on a blade/stip of metal which in turn clamped the wires,

regards malcolm

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 05 Aug 2010, 13:30

I've finally got a replacement terminal and found a few spare minutes to measure fitment - but it doesn't look like it will be larger enough. The "hole" to clamp the cables is slightly smaller in I.D. than the widest O.D. of the cables it has to clamp over.

However, I notice that the positive cable is actually made up of three seperate cables, so the resultant OD is not symmetrical. Is it possible I could squeeze them all in to my new terminal or should I look for a larger one? I don't want to cut the old terminal off to test the theory as that will render the car unuseable until I can source a terminal that will fit.

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 08 Sep 2010, 19:30

Mike, sorry it's taken so long to get the photo up, this is what I managed to pick up from a barry boy audio shop:

Ebay has some similar ones, even with the voltage digital display.

Jim used his bolt cutters to remove the old broken terminals, and fitted a ring connector to one of the smaller feeds.

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 09 Sep 2010, 13:53

Thanks Xac, I do fancy the voltmeter version but bought a standard cheapo terminal instead - in fact a set of two for a third of the price but my tiewrap is proving a good enough fix (for now) as I'm reluctant to cut the old terminal off in case I can't fit the new one. Yours look good quality but how is it secured to the post, is there a side grub screw?

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 09 Sep 2010, 14:11

Do you have a spare stay for the fully open position or know where I can get one cheap? Is it a single part or what? Or am I misinterpreting you?
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sorry Mike only just seen this

you not misintepreting, I am mis communicating

what i mean is the bulge in the bonnet caused by the stay not seating correctly because the stay holder clip is missing

i only use the full open position when the wind is gone, once I got hit on the head by the metal hoop with a falling bonnet, never felt that much pain

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 09 Sep 2010, 14:39

MikeT wrote:Thanks Xac, I do fancy the voltmeter version but bought a standard cheapo terminal instead - in fact a set of two for a third of the price but my tiewrap is proving a good enough fix (for now) as I'm reluctant to cut the old terminal off in case I can't fit the new one. Yours look good quality but how is it secured to the post, is there a side grub screw?

Yes there's an allen bolt in the side which clamps it tightly against the battery terminal post.

Another option which the LX had done to it was remove the broken half and tightening bolt of the old terminal and use the hole the bolt went through to fit a halfrauds' type cheapo terminal on the end.

So if you look at this type of terminal:

Remove the silver bolt, fit the remains of your current terminal so the hole in the end is in the gap and secure it in place by refitting the silver bolt, when you tighten it to the post it should hold it all together with good contact, otherwise use a longer bolt so you can fit the old terminal piece to the end of the bolt outside the new terminal.
The advantage of this is you can use the part of the new terminal that should take the main feed (the barrel bit with two screws) to attach new feeds, many more if you use a terminal like this one:

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 09 Sep 2010, 15:02

jgra1 wrote:
Do you have a spare stay for the fully open position or know where I can get one cheap? Is it a single part or what? Or am I misinterpreting you?
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sorry Mike only just seen this you not misintepreting, I am mis communicating

No worries John, we covered this on your visit IIRC. Since learning the bonnet can be raised beyond vertical, I've found it useful on a number of occasions - if only I knew when I had to do the head gasket

- so wish to source the OE extender.

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 09 Sep 2010, 15:03

Xac wrote:Another option which the LX had done to it was remove the broken half and tightening bolt of the old terminal and use the hole the bolt went through to fit a halfrauds' type cheapo terminal on the end.

Good tip, I think I'll give that a go! Thanks Xac.