Sphere help please

f00lzz · Unread post by **f00lzz** » 20 May 2010, 21:50

Doesn't it sound like it might be the white plastic link on the height corrector?

Ian

DickieG · Unread post by **DickieG** » 20 May 2010, 21:53

If you want to pop down the M40 to junction 1 I'll have a look at the car for you and give you the definitive answer as to what exactly is wrong.

Homer · Unread post by **Homer** » 21 May 2010, 02:24

If it's locked up solid then replacing the front corner spheres will probably give it enough bounce to get through the MOT unless the tester is particularly knowledged on hydropneumatic cits.

It's a new one on me though, I've had them pass with flat spheres and get a warning for being too bouncy with good ones.

i3 · Unread post by i3 » 24 May 2010, 20:22

i ordered the spheres from the cheapest place i could find,,aepdirect...i ordered four front ones...where can i get the sphere removal tool now? i would rather get it from somewhere local so i can collect tomorrow,,but i dont know where... the mot free retest expires thursday...soo... i gotta get these spheres on asap...i know the two corner ones seem easy to replace,,but im not sure about the other two,,, will i have to get under the car right? i read the guides available here,,by Jim i think,,,but i dont see any mention of changing the actuator spheres nor the hydractive sphere up at the front... so im not too sure....

Unread post by **myglaren** » 24 May 2010, 20:40

Check this thread for a DIY tool.

i3 · Unread post by i3 » 26 May 2010, 00:39

okay i made the tool today it fits the spheres nice...the front end of the car is up on axle stands so in the morning i will hopefully go out and change the four front spheres...just to see if i understand the procedure correctly,,,

i start the car, suspension on highest setting, undo all four front spheres ever so slightly with the tool, drop the suspension to the lowest setting, undo the front facing 12mm bolt on the thing that the actuator sphere is connected to, turn off the car, leave for a few minutes undo the all the four spheres by hand and remove them, dip the new seals in fresh lhm, put the seals where the spheres go, then fit spheres and hand tighten

is that the correct procedure? and is there any particular order in which the spheres should be changed? or does it not make any difference? and the correct bolt that im looking for to depressurise the system,, is it the one facing towards the front of the car? i.e opposite the radiator? ive seen it in the picture but its hard to tell....

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 26 May 2010, 06:09

Not quite,

For the fronts, drop to low and with the engine running, open the 12mm bleed valve just a half turn or so. Don't remove it completely. You should hear a short "rushing" sound as the valve opens.

Then remove the spheres. You only need to "crack" (start) the rear corners on high with engine running.

The reason you open the bleed valve with the engine running is so that every opportunity is afforded to depressurise the spheres themselves before the anti-sink valve shuts off and holds pressure in them. If you depressurise with the engine off, full pressure will remain in the spheres. Not all pressure may be gone so be ready for a douche vert

The centre hydractive sphere (on bracket by rad) can be tight and hold on to pressure. It's on a flimsy (relatively) bracket and be careful it does not bend too much and damage the rad. Sometimes it helps, if it is really tight, to bach the end of the sphere tool with a big hammer as you apply uncrewing force. The percussive effect helps to jar it free.

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 26 May 2010, 19:29

don't forget to turn the engine off once you've depressurised.
don't remove the sphere's with the engine running!

i3 · Unread post by i3 » 28 May 2010, 10:59

thanks for all your advice,,just to let you all know,, i did manage to change the spheres and get through the retest

looking forward to doing the rears now