XUD Bosch fuel pump leak.

Unread post by **KennyW** » 17 Feb 2010, 19:15

Hi CoXen,

I have had some fun with my Diesel pump but the strip down and replacing the seals is relatively easy. It cost me £8 for seal kit but I would check with your local diesel specialist supplier for seals suitable for Veg Oil.

My main problem is an air blockage I think

Kenny

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 17 Feb 2010, 19:48

falling-out-with-my-car wrote:Xac, the next question would be can I get mine imobilised then?

it does sound as though a tank full of diesel might clear that blockage problem then on the return line?

Coxen where abouts are you based? and do you let your veg oil stand indoors for a couple of weeks to make sure any extra muck drops out to the bottom of the container, (some wives won't allow this unfortunately).

cheers Nigel.

When I say deimobilise a pump I mean before it was removed from the donor car, start it and unplug the keypad.
I'm sure there are companies which could fit an immobiliser to an older pump, or just get a 3rd party immobiliser.

If the return pipe is blocked/flow restricted, then fuel won't clear it (otherwise it would have prevented the block), the return line isn't under much pressure.
Best way is pop the return pipe off the pump and blow down it.
If it's hard, then get an airline on there and blow it clear.

cox377 · Unread post by **cox377** » 18 Feb 2010, 07:38

Hello Nigel,

I'm in Sunny sussex.

I do let them sit for quite some time before filtering, I can then use the stuff that is running the day I filter it then use it/

CoXen

cox377 · Unread post by **cox377** » 18 Feb 2010, 07:43

Xac wrote:
falling-out-with-my-car wrote:Xac, the next question would be can I get mine imobilised then?

it does sound as though a tank full of diesel might clear that blockage problem then on the return line?

Coxen where abouts are you based? and do you let your veg oil stand indoors for a couple of weeks to make sure any extra muck drops out to the bottom of the container, (some wives won't allow this unfortunately).

cheers Nigel.
When I say deimobilise a pump I mean before it was removed from the donor car, start it and unplug the keypad.
I'm sure there are companies which could fit an immobiliser to an older pump, or just get a 3rd party immobiliser.

If the return pipe is blocked/flow restricted, then fuel won't clear it (otherwise it would have prevented the block), the return line isn't under much pressure.
Best way is pop the return pipe off the pump and blow down it.
If it's hard, then get an airline on there and blow it clear.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll try it this weekend.

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 18 Feb 2010, 08:38

cox377 wrote: Thanks for the heads up, I'll try it this weekend.

If it's blocked, you should get a satisfying *thunk* sound when it clears

It'd probably be worth extracting the fuel sender from the tank and checking it anyway, especially the gauze fiter on the uptake as this gets covered in crud over the years

falling-out-with-my-car · 18 Feb 2010, 09:56

Aha, Xac youve raised something Ive been meanning to ask about the sender unit in my xantia Mk2.

I tried to extract my xantia sender unit some time ago and not knowing which way to tilt it to remove it without damaging it I lifted it straight up and when it jammed I gave up and put it back again.

can you advise please on wether it should be tilted forwards towards the front tof the car sideways or backwards to remove it from the tank??

as I said I dont want to risk doing any damage.

Coxen,

if it turns out that you have a blockage try letting some filtered oil stand for about a week in a warm place you might be suprised at the extra crud that drops out of it, very fine fats but these all help to block fuel lines esspecally in cold weather.

thanks in advance Nigel.

cox377 · Unread post by **cox377** » 18 Feb 2010, 10:15

I did check the gause filter, been meaning to check it again

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 18 Feb 2010, 10:50

falling-out-with-my-car wrote:Aha, Xac youve raised something Ive been meanning to ask about the sender unit in my xantia Mk2.

I tried to extract my xantia sender unit some time ago and not knowing which way to tilt it to remove it without damaging it I lifted it straight up and when it jammed I gave up and put it back again.

can you advise please on wether it should be tilted forwards towards the front tof the car sideways or backwards to remove it from the tank??

as I said I dont want to risk doing any damage.

Coxen,

if it turns out that you have a blockage try letting some filtered oil stand for about a week in a warm place you might be suprised at the extra crud that drops out of it, very fine fats but these all help to block fuel lines esspecally in cold weather.

thanks in advance Nigel.

Being a man of taste (teehee) I've avoided MK2 cars where ever possible so I've never had a MK2 diesel.
I'm pretty sure Jim's had the sender unit out of a MK2, jgra's.
Check jgra's blog http://xantiablog.blogspot.com/

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 18 Feb 2010, 10:54

Xac wrote: I'm pretty sure Jim's had the sender unit out of a MK2, jgra's.

Ahh yes, I remember it well. In the middle of a pretty village called Stockbridge in Hampshire

It's easier in the MK2 as you have push-on connectors for the fuel lines.

The snagging will be caused by the gauge sender float arm. You just have to tilt the whole assembly until it comes out. With it half-way up, peer in, look for the float arm and jiggle appropriately.

Same as on a petrol Xantia.

falling-out-with-my-car · 19 Feb 2010, 11:49

cheers Jim i'm still none the wiser just telling me to tilt the sender unit doesnt help, in which direction might be helpful?

Xac the link you posted to the blog just has photos on it nothing useful
i.e instructions on how to remove a sender unit.

regards Nigel

falling-out-with-my-car · 19 Feb 2010, 11:54

cox377 · Unread post by **cox377** » 09 Mar 2010, 07:52

Right, well I got an old pump onto the kitchen table last night and took the head part off, came off quite easily but it's off a 405 and doesnt have the armor attached to it. I managed to get the head part off but just couldnt get the bugger back on. I'm really worried that If I can't when doing it on the actual car I'll be stuck without a car.

I'm normally pretty confident but I simply can't risk the car coming off the road.

I've still got to blow the lines out with air first.

CoXen

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 09 Mar 2010, 08:09

Hi CoXen,

I'd be very, very wary about even attempting to lift the lid with the pump in-situ. You're lacking room..

Did you look at my pump pages on my website?

That should give you some clues. Basically, you have to get all the levers back in position and up against the maxium delivery screw properly and make sure the governor spring box is correctly refitted into the delivery sleeve swing plate. It's a job that needs six hands. Then you have to hook the fast idel spring back in position. Doing this whilst the pump is on the car is not really on.

I can email you a good document containing more diagrams of the pump internals.

cox377 · Unread post by **cox377** » 09 Mar 2010, 12:02

Thanks for coming back to me Jim.

Thats what I thought, it was too tight to do in situe. I have another pump on a 406 with a snapped cam belt that I can strip. I may just swap over pumps. Eeven if i do get the pump off the xantia I cant know I'll definatly get the lid back on.

The other option is, take the 406 pump off, fit new o-rings and try and fit.

Has anyone managed to do this seal in situe?

coXen

cox377 · Unread post by **cox377** » 09 Mar 2010, 18:36

well I got the air line out and blew down the line but no thud I was hoping for. I've degreased the engine then it went dark, I'll see if I can see more tomorrow.

Looks like I'll have to give the diesel places a call tomorrow.

CoXen