Non starting Xantia V6 s2

citrov6 · Unread post by **citrov6** » 09 Sep 2009, 00:01

its something like a 25A under the drivers side dash

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 09 Sep 2009, 06:00

Andrew,

Maybe not much help but here's the MK1 injection circuit.

V6 MK1 Injection

The two double relays (1304 and 1307) bear a check. Fuel pump is 1211.

As CitroV6 says, there should be lots of buzzing under the bonnet. You should be able to hear the idle stepper buzzing away before the engine starts accompanied by the clunk of 200 odd relays clicking as you turn on the ignition!

Front bank spark plugs under under the panel ("V6 24V") below the coil pack. You can get to the rear bank plug leads from there to easily check for a spark using an HT lead and spark plug borrowed from another car

I'll post the MK2 diagrams later this evening...

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 15 Sep 2009, 17:32

Cheers Jim,

I've only just sat down in past half hour and started to look at the wiring
circuit.

No progress since last week whilst other jobs have had my time devoted to
them but I really do need to face up to the reality this isn't going to work
again on a whim of it's own, despite the fact the failure seems to!

A few thoughts have troubled me over the past week and I'd like to allay
my fears on them. The first thing is the fact that the only physical change
since it was running has been a week's lay-up and for the first time in a year
with similar infrequent random use, has been a flat battery. I've used it
daily for months and then sparingly once or twice a week and there's never
been a murmur of battery problems. The battery freshly charged spins it
over quickly and there's a strong feeling the immobiliser isn't allowing
ignition as per an older keypad car where the code isn't entered.

I don't like the untimely coincidence that the keyring plipper which is
normally brilliant and hyper sensitive unlocking the car by accident if the
key is caught within range in my jacket pocket, is apparently dead at the
same time as the car stops letting me start it. The red led on the driver's
mirror is flashing when the car is parked locked on the key if this is an
influence.

Can a massive feed of rainwater from our fab British weather have played
merry hell with the electrics including the plip receiver and the immobiliser
circuit?

My problem is I'm not up to speed on s2's and would love to know where
the plip receiver is - what is synced with other key components on this
damned car?

I've just tried it again after having sat a week with a fully charged battery
and it turns over fine now but WILL NOT fire. I've now disconnected the
battery again in case this helps reset the ECU's. In the past on every other
car I've had, if the battery get's connected whilst the ignition is on there's
no chance that'll trip something and prevent the car even starting again.

I've had the misfortune to even drive a car where the bracket holding the
foot of the battery wasn't tight enough and the battery has slid under keen
cornering and pulled a terminal lose causing the car to cut out and then
back in again as I stopped; I just cannot see how connecting the battery
with the ignition switched on can be detrimental to the future of the car!!

I've just removed the engine's top plastic cover to get sight of the coil
packs and cannot begin to guess where the plugs live but will try and give
an ignition pulse tester a go shortly - I don't fancy loose plugs or undone
HT leads as I've read comments in the past where sophisticated fuel/
ignition systems don't like this kind of treatment.

Is there any kind of checklist I can refer to for key reading to say the two
main relays in the ECU box or see if there's physically fuel feeding under
pressure into the injector rail on top of the engine before I begin ripping
open the fuel tank sender under the back seat?

I don't mind admitting I'm totally green to this engine and s2's and have
as yet not managed to get any documentation to help fill in the blanks on
my understanding on this car - I've only had the car since New Year's Eve
this year and it's been a blast. Until now.

At the moment it's simply not practical or affordable to have an open ended
diagnostics session having towed the car to the local Cit Dealer or Indy
guy.

Andrew

Stempy · Unread post by **Stempy** » 16 Sep 2009, 00:43

Looking at the wiring diagram it looks to me like the central locking receiver is integral to the body computer which is located behind the passenger airbag. I have a spare one but that's probably not much use without a lexia to recode it. The receiver for the coded key fob is as you might expect by the ignition switch.

With regard to immobilisation, from the body computer there are 3 connections to the injection ECU and one to the autobox ECU, 4 wires to the keycode receiver and one to the dash lamp. Fuses involved are F25, F15 (permanent), F12 and F2(switched) in the inside fuse box. The final connection in the diagram is to pin 6 of the diagnostic socket.

wheeler · Unread post by **wheeler** » 16 Sep 2009, 15:27

Stempy wrote:Looking at the wiring diagram it looks to me like the central locking receiver is integral to the body computer which is located behind the passenger airbag. I have a spare one but that's probably not much use without a lexia to recode it. The receiver for the coded key fob is as you might expect by the ignition switch.
.

The Plip reciever is part of the CPH unit (body computer) behind the glovebox & this is also the imobiliser control unit. A second hand one would be no good to you even with a Lexia as they can only be matched to the ECU once. Does the the key light come on breifly with the ignition then go out again ? if it does then the key is recognised & also tells you the CPH is being powered up.
Apart from that you really need to check for a spark & fuel pressure.

Unread post by **RichardW** » 16 Sep 2009, 16:32

Re the plip not working - it might simply need resynching because the battery has been off. Can't remember the exact procedure, but it might be turn on the ignition to position 1 and press and hold the lock button for 10s. Worth a punt anyway

I doubt it will help you get it started, but it might remove one thing from the equation

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 16 Sep 2009, 17:55

Thanks as always to all suggestion and posters - it doesn't feel so isolated
here sitting in my dead 24v'er! I cannot see a key warning light on the dash
- there's nothing to the right of the red doors open plan of the car warning
despite what the handbook says.

When the ignition is turned to illuminate the dash, I believe there are two
clicks under the boot floor where one must be the central electrovalve
switching and the other I'm hoping is the fuel pump. There's a click from
the central transmission which I'd expect is the autobox and under the
bonnet I can hear a very loud buzz and feel the vibration from the
supplementary air valve on the end of the induction feed near the LHM
reservoir.

When I turn the starter circuit on I cannot say there's a buzz from the fuel
pump mind.

The tester I have for picking up a HT pulse from the lead doesn't signal
anything even after checking against a nearby Activa where it does work
- it may very well be down to a slightly loose grip on the lead as they
seem very thin on this V6. I cannot see the end of the fuel feed pipe onto
the top of the engine without further dismantling so progress is still rather
slow. I will yet need to confirm there's no spark - is it really OK to fit a
spark plug on the end of the lead left on the top of the engine to test it
for a spark? I'm sure I've read a scary story or two saying not to do this.

Richard, I tried the suggestion with the plipper but at the moment there's
still no joy with it!

I have been rather busy swapping the whole lock set over on an Activa
where the original key had gone awol. It's very frightening just how
flimsy the plastic door handle is as I cut through it like paper to open the
deadlocked car....

Andrew