Xantia brakes

[SLYTZD]

Interesting you say that because guess what... Now I've overhauled my rear brakes using copper grease my ABS is playing up. (Activating at slow speed / light braking, I.E. pulling up at traffic lights ect. *Grabs handbrake* )

Some times the ABS light is on at start up but not always. Tried the usual changing the ride height / steering angle as I presumed it was a cable braking down, maybe not then. Have you any more information on this copper grease / ABS problem? Would like to hear more.


As for "sacrificial parts involved when tearing down and reassembling", on the rear I was lucky it went quite smoothly but the rear calliper bolts were VERY corroded on the threads. By that I mean the 'scale' had traveled down the thread making it VERY tight even once the bolt was 'cracked'. I can see why others have had big problems with them shearing off. Suggest lots of penetrating oil over a week or so before you do the job, could save yourself a lot of problems. Do the 3 10mm bolts that hold the shield on as well as they always shear if you don't. I wasn't able to get the solid brake line out of the calliper either. The 8mm union unscrewed ok but the pipe was not coming out unless I broke it out. I unclipped it from the swing arm to allow more movement & was able to do the job ok.

[addo]

Thanks for the detailed comments on fragility of parts. I am hoping our relative dryness has been an asset (although we're currently in protracted heavy rains).

The Wurth copper stuff is supposed to be nonconductive, according to my skim-reading. I'm curious, too, on how a copper grease can effect a magnetically pulsed signal.

Regards, Adam.

[citronut]

i think for copper grease to affect the ABS you would need it slapped all over the ABS rotor so there was a build up between the rotor and the pole sensor (ABS sensor)

regards malcolm

[Toby_HDi]

Pipe end is 11mm
Caliper end is 14mm

I found with the flare nut spanners that I needed to pop the spanner over the pipe and then slide it up and onto the nut.

[CitroJim]

That's odd that they're being such a Mike. Normally, the combination of LHM and fortutious sprays of engine oil acting as a rustproofer normally makes disconnecting this end of the pipe a cinch.

I'm wondering if the union nut is binding on the pipe due to it not being 100% straight or there is dirt between the pipe and nut binding it.

All the ones I've done have yielded with a good quality 11mm open-ender.

One idea to make a good tool for the stubborn ones is to take a 1/4" drive 11mm socket (a cheap Chinese one will do) and cut a lengthwise slot in it the width of the pipe and weld a small handle onto it. You'll then have a flare nut socket spanner that will likely be a much snugger (is that a word?) fit on the nut than a conventional flare-nut spanner.

[citronut]

i usualy use a good quality pair of VICE GRIPS on the real stubon pipe nuts, as long as you dont tighten them to much and crush the pipe nut you can usualy reuse it again

regards malcolm