Key fob distress!!

rowanmoor · Unread post by **rowanmoor** » 13 Sep 2006, 15:08

KP, Locking the doors should work from inside the car. Siren being turned on or off should not affect the locking AFAIK.

Sounds like you have non-working fobs (or ones that aren't correct type for the car).

I presume the red light on the fob shows when you press the button. If it does then the fob should be working. If it is very dim then it may be that the battery is too flat.

André Citroën · Unread post by **André Citroën** » 13 Sep 2006, 15:11

KP wrote:Non of those procedures work for me

Spare key in the ignition to the run postition, then other remote fob held to reciever in roof with button depressed for 10seconds.
remove key from ignition and try to lock doors, no luck

When you try and lock the doors do you have to be outside the car or can you do it from inside the car still??

2 dead fobs here so nothing is actually coded into the system and the batteries went flat in btoh fobs Also does the siren need to be turned on under the bonnet?

If you have an IR remote it can't be programmed. Only radio controlled can.

KP · Unread post by KP » 13 Sep 2006, 17:44

As far as i know they are the ones that came with the car

How can you program Infra Red ones then or are they just not programmable?
Its an Mreg Xantia TD by the way

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 13 Sep 2006, 19:39

The infrared ones are not really "programmed" - but "coded" - using a soldering iron :
http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/plip/

Homer · Unread post by **Homer** » 13 Sep 2006, 20:25

The Xantia IR plips are programmed.

The BX ones are soldered.

To program the Xantia ones, turn the ignition on (to ACC I think) then point the plip at the reciever (holding it fairly close) and press the lock button for 10 seconds. Obviously you need a second key for this.

KP · Unread post by KP » 13 Sep 2006, 23:20

Hi Homer,

Ive tried that but either the batteries dont have enough juice or its just not taking

Ill try the other remote tomorrow but i reckon its gunna do the same

Guess it could be a duff reciever

wrinklet1 · Unread post by **wrinklet1** » 13 Sep 2006, 23:58

A Xantia Mk1 keyfob is infra red, coded by turning the ignition on and then pressing the lock button on the keyfob until the doors lock.
I was shown and have done this several times on various Xantia's
NO soldering needs to be done unless the circuit board is damaged.
A Xantia MkII is a radio code keyfod and therefore need coding by a Citroen dealer only.
Paul

KP · Unread post by KP » 14 Sep 2006, 00:26

So i get this right...

i put key in the ignition,
turn to run,
point fob at reciever until doors lock?

Even if it takes an age to do? I just hold the button down and the doors will eventually lock when they have learned of each other?

[email protected] · Unread post by **[email protected]** » 14 Sep 2006, 08:41

Hi all

Wrinklet has it right turn ign on then hold the fob close to the receiver in the car then keep repeatedly pressing the key fob lock button until the led goes out on the fob but don't hold it in continuously just press repeatedly then turn ign off try locking the doors as you sit inside.

Just keep repeating this then all of a sudden your doors will lock if you only have one key take the circuit board out of the fob then keep repeatedly pressing the unlock button on the circuit board with the key in the ign Ive done this loads of times and it works.

Pete.............................

KP · Unread post by KP » 14 Sep 2006, 14:59

Is it the Run position i turn the ignition to or the Accessories position? Ie, 1st click or second click, im going to give it another try on my break in a few minutes anyway as i have soem new batteries from ebay for about £2 so ill give the fobs a whirl, though one of them is displying classic solder cracks and flex on the joints on the pcb so i guess that should be made my spare key when sorted lol

KP · Unread post by KP » 14 Sep 2006, 15:29

Also thinking on a little as they are the IR type, if i try teh connector plug in the roof for the IR sensor box which ones should be live and which ones should be ground? I assume one should always be live by a volt or two?

Homer · Unread post by **Homer** » 14 Sep 2006, 19:31

if you have acces to a digital camera you may be able to check the transmitter is working.

First get your TV remote and fire it at the camera, see if you can see a light coming from the end of the remote in the camera's display.

If you can then try it with the car remote.

Not all digital cameras can see IR but most can.

The recievers are prone to getting waterlogged, either via the sunroof or the radio antenna.

KP · Unread post by KP » 14 Sep 2006, 22:59

Well ive done it now.

While having one of the keys from the R plate 2.1td sx in its Ignition barrel i tried to program one of the fobs from the M plate xantia. Both are of IR type.
I had actually opened the car using the fob that was in the ignition barrel.

After trying for 5 minutes to code my Xantias fob to the 2.1's system i gave up and exited the car. went to lock it with the fob that had been in the ignition and...
No lock

tried again and the Red light wasnt even coming on

Taken the unit apart and swapped its batteries out for some new ones and still no red light on it

grr sodding thing. i did notice that the PCB designs do vary a little bit. not too much but it is a good variance between 4 yrs of manufacture. i really must be doing something very wrong here now

Ill try your tip homer, does it work only with digital camcorders or digital still cameras as well??

KP · Unread post by KP » 14 Sep 2006, 23:17

Right after some more testing, thanks Homer, the fobs for the 2.1 are working fine, just the LED's are broke, but the ones for the Mreg the LED's work but the IR Diodes are bust

Now the joints on one are quite bad and the other is what i think must have been a spare and doesnt feel to have any play in it at all. If i take it to an electrical specialist are they going to be able to put the correct Diode onto it and solder it on well or should i scrap them both and buy some from Fleabay and run the gauntllet of them working when i get them??

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 15 Sep 2006, 14:19

"Electrical specialist" ?

Hope you dont mean an electrician - or auto electrician

- as they will must likely bust whats left not busted yet 8)
If they accept to do such jobs - it will most likely cost you as much as a new unit.
STEER CLEAR !

Find a friend who is a wizzard on a tiny electronic soldering iron (max 30Watt needle tipped).
There is no such thing as "genuine" type IR diodes as these would most likely have been a special delivery back in time when the units were made.
Any standard Maplin/RadioShack IR LED will do the job and will cost you the small fortune of approx £1.