ZX 1.9 1993 TD dangerous

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 11 Jul 2006, 14:44

thanks Rich et al

I will get back to you later after I have been under..

then got to go from here to Reading to get me a new motorbike

NiSk · Unread post by **NiSk** » 11 Jul 2006, 17:52

Had that problem on my 2nd XM - after about 2000 miles from new, the whole power unit was wobbling like crazy under torque. The dealer took it in and checked it - both front inner CV joints where shot - turns out they had a bad batch where the hardening hadn't been done properly.

//NiSk

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 11 Jul 2006, 18:30

all

... went under car.. short drive shaft, where it enters diff, could be moved by fingers alone, outwards.. by the same token, i could push the shaft in towards the inner joint.. the joint must be completly gone!!

grabbed the longer driveshaft, after the intermediate bearing, and although there was not this movement, it knocked as i pulled in and out!!

so, one really bad joint and one on its way?

so relieved, feel slightly silly too

Allanxantia · Unread post by **Allanxantia** » 11 Jul 2006, 19:37

That doesn't sound definately like the driveshafts as there is movement in them. A surefire way of checking bent driveshafts or CV joints is to look at them with them moving but you would need to VERY SECURELY raise the car and start it in gear and you will see them vibrating. It depends on what facilities you have I suppose but replacing a driveshaft is a bit of a pain to find its not that. Oh and if you are changing them, make sure and change the oil seal!

Stewart(oily) · Unread post by **Stewart(oily)** » 11 Jul 2006, 19:57

Had a similar problem with a mates Xantia last year, turned out to be the short driveshaft.
Stewart

fastandfurryous · Unread post by **fastandfurryous** » 11 Jul 2006, 20:30

The short driveshaft, and the outer of the long driveshaft SHOULD float. There will be a fair bit of movement of them axially.

But Radially there should be no movement at all. Try to "lift" the three parts of driveshaft while under the car. If they clonk up and down, then you have your problem.

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 12 Jul 2006, 09:31

i see.. so the flaoting is neccessary because the distance between hub and diff changes during suspension movement....

no movement radially, no noise...

hmm...
I need to fix this problem.. i am tempted to get a couple of second hand driveshafts and fit them just to see....

god....

new bike is good tho

VFR**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]

John

sooty · Unread post by **sooty** » 13 Jul 2006, 20:39

No one has mentioned about the outer CV joints. I had an experience like this with an Escort where a outer joint had gone dry. Once I repacked it with some fresh graphite type grease everything was ok.

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 13 Jul 2006, 22:27

as per my earlier posts.. could this cause a vibration soo bad that car is now undriveable....?

when there is no noise of any sort no matter what steering lock is on....
and
could a car pass an mot with rubbish CV;s?

its getting very near Saturady (wreckers yard day) and i dont know what to do/... I dont care whats wrong, just want to Diagnose it ;(

john

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 13 Jul 2006, 22:29

although...

after thinking about it again..

maybe ...

two good used Driveshafts... at worse, they dont cure it and it costs £20-30 and some time....

what size is a zx hub nut>?

sooty · Unread post by **sooty** » 14 Jul 2006, 17:45

I got my 36mm socket from Halfords, which is an 1/2"" drive impact socket (nice and strong).

8304 · Unread post by **8304** » 15 Jul 2006, 10:18

i would almst guarantee to you that this is caused by one or both of the inner triax joints on the drive shaft.

my zx was wobbling under accelaration and chaging the short shaft cured this.

i know sombody who had a kangoo van which had the same problem and the dealer couldnt figure it out - i got him to tell the dealer about the triax joints and hey presto he had the van back within a couple of days.

there is no real way to test a shaft in situ - somtimes they rattle and feel nakkered but they are fine and vice versa.

you need to change the shafts to eleiminate the problem - start with the short shaft as this is easiest (no intermediate bearing) and then change the long shaft if that doesnt sort the problem.....

good luck - let us know how you get on.....

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 17 Jul 2006, 09:23

thanks all for replies.. esp the latter ones about driveshafts..

Well, I removed both shafts. The short shaft really didnt seem bad. The joints all worked in all directions, the only play I could really find was a mm in/out in the CV (all seem to do this). I am tempted to say this shaft was ok...

The longer one had radial play in inner and outer joints... there was a pile of grease near the half way bearing.... The rubber gaitor on inner Tri ax was soft giving the impression of loads of movement...

The wreckers didn't have an off the shelf ZX long shaft, so i removed one from a car, after removal, that one was the worst of all.

I then went to look at Gearbox mounting.. I can rock the engine about 10-15mm with fingertips on the intercooler, in doing this the gearstick moves, much the same as when the car wobbles under acceleration. Although the gearbox mounting bush was complete, there were some fine cracks in it, and the rubber passage that the steel spacer goes through, under the bush, was elongated...

I am thinking now to obtain a cheap used OS drive shaft and fit new mouting and see.... ?
What other cars have the same Driveshaft as the ZX (I know all pugs and cits use them, but for example , the Xantia one is about and inch longer, presumable due to a different track...

John

8304 · Unread post by **8304** » 17 Jul 2006, 14:10

pug 306 and zx are generally the same but there were a couple of different noses which go into the gearbox.

you are defo on the right course with drivshafts, especially if the grease had escaped from the tri - ax joint.

i wouldnt bother changing the gearbox mount - just do the shaft cos then you will know what caused the problem then do the mounts after.

(changing the bottom mount makes a world of difference)

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 17 Jul 2006, 14:17

thanks

yes changed bottom mount last week

but/...

i didnt take a look at the small bush on the other end of chassis bracket... hmmm