CitroJim's AX, C3 Picasso, Cycling and Running Tales

[MattBLancs]

Happy to report al was found to be good at my routine 6-monthly hospital check following surgery My next one is due in November and if all good, I'll be down to yearly checks then...

Excellent news

Both the little sisters need a routine coolant change. Last time I needed it, I found less than straightforward to locally source proper old-school ethylene glycol antifreeze. Although I could find blue-coloured stuff, there was no real evidence it was the pukka stuff... And I don't want to use OAT in the little ones...

Zel, do you know? I expect you use it in the Rover?

Any good for you Jim:
https://ebay.us/m/tTuCGO
eBay, 25l of Ethylene Glycol antifreeze concentrate, £54.99 Inc delivery. Voucher takes £4.40 off

[Zelandeth]

I gave up trying to get any in MK after trying four places, and ended up sourcing it from Milehams's down in Dunstable. Colour doesn't mean anything any more - stuff in the Volvo is some weird, exotic cocktail but is dark bluish green.

At the moment the Rover has just got the cheapest stuff I could find in as it will be getting changed again soon and it takes three gallons of it!

Honestly I'd probably just use standard OAT - so long as the system is thoroughly flushed it will be absolutely fine. The only time it can cause any issues at all is when types are mixed. I've made this change on half a dozen cars (and left clear labels under the bonnet and in the handbook to advise future drivers) and had zero issues. That's what will be going in the Rover when I next change it.

Other advantage is that if you do ever need to top up unexpectedly you won't need to trek round every shop within 50 miles trying to find anything suitable or mail order it, which for something as simple as coolant just feels daft.

Same reason I tend to convert things I use regularly to use blade fuses. If I unexpectedly need to find spares I don't want it to turn into a giant mission. Where I used to stay the nearest place with supplies was a 36 mile round trip away and had patchy stock aonetimes, so I standardised for the sake of simplicity.

I'd maybe be wary of some of the more exotic modern coolants just in case they're not compatible with some types of rubber - but boggo standard OAT is absolutely fine in an old car. Just make sure to thoroughly flush the system when you change it over. I usually flush through as best I can, fill and bleed the system with plain water, go drive for ~10 miles to ensure everything is thoroughly circulated and any remaining old stuff is diluted down to nothing, then drain and change. Never had any issues that way.

Off the top of my head that's been 2x Skoda Estelles (third one already had OAT in it when I got it), a Metro, 2x Lada Rivas, Lada Niva, Merc camper, and my father's L plate Panda 1000. All of those never displayed any issues.

The one thing that can either be considered an upside or downside depending on your point of view is that OAT does tend to show up any miniscule leaks with crystallised deposits more readily. My take on this is that it's a good thing as if there's a tiny weep I'd rather know about it than not.

[CitroJim]

Thanks both

25l of the stuff will last me for ever Matt!!!

Actually Zel, that makes a lot of sense about swapping over to OAT as then all three of my cars will use the same stuff... I was under the impression that it was almost impossible to flush sufficiently thoroughly to avoid the potential issues.

Food for thought...

My big Autodoc order is on its way and pleased to see they're using DPD and not the dreaded Evri Bilt Hamber is using DHL and a delivery of photographic chemicals yesterday was via DPD...

Is there a bit of a move away from Evri these days or have I just been lucky with my recent big orders?

I was quite alarmed to see how toxic the bottle of colour developer appears to be. Maybe spent developer would make a good weedkiller?

Speaking of weedkiller, I bought a big can of 'Roundup' the other day. I used to like it as it could kill a fully-grown tree with just one drop and almost kill me with the fumes. Ideal for keeping my gravel areas weed-free.

This new batch smelt distinctly different and nowhere near as world-endingly toxic. It was also pretty much ineffectual... I then looked at the ingredients and found it's now more or less just acetic acid

No wonder it's a bit weedy... Makes me think spent photographic chemistry - especially colour bleach - will do quite well and likely better than the current formulation of 'Roundup'.

Not exhausted fixer though as it contains metallic contains silver and that's not good for the environment at all. A few weeks back I asked about its disposal as hazardous chemical waste at our local tip. The totter suggested I put it with the inkjet printer cartridges!

[MattBLancs]

Yes, fair enough rather a large quantity! I tend to "bulk buy" with must things, as take the view it'll come in eventually...


...though mentally tallying up currently inventory here: 5 litres of (red) coolant (most of the way through a 20 litre drum), 16 litres of gearbox oil, 40 litres of oil (just replenished stocks of 5w30 C2, and rather overbought 5w40 cheap fully synth for the EW10J4 coupe), about 18 litres of snow foam car wash stuff.
Most of it bought online, tend to be swayed by the better price/litre of "just a bit more"

Weedkillers have suffered since the (bomb making, I believe) ingredients that made them work so well have been deliberately made less available. Bloody terrorism!

Evri have been fine for me - guess I've been lucky as to who they've got making the final bit of the delivery to me - generally pretty good, caring etc.

[bobins]

Speaking of weedkiller, I bought a big can of 'Roundup' the other day. I used to like it as it could kill a fully-grown tree with just one drop and almost kill me with the fumes. Ideal for keeping my gravel areas weed-free.

This new batch smelt distinctly different and nowhere near as world-endingly toxic. It was also pretty much ineffectual... I then looked at the ingredients and found it's now more or less just acetic acid

No wonder it's a bit weedy... Makes me think spent photographic chemistry - especially colour bleach - will do quite well and likely better than the current formulation of 'Roundup'.

There's two types of Roundup available. You need the Glyphosate based one, not the Pathetic Acid based one. The Glyphosate based one has been around for ages - farmer's usually have it in the 480gm formula, whereas back garden/domestic/'gardener' versions are in the 360gm formula. You can also get it ready diluted as this is what most garden centres sell. Whilst it could technically kill a small tree, you'd need more than a drop of it for that

A few weeks back I asked about its disposal as hazardous chemical waste at our local tip. The totter suggested I put it with the inkjet printer cartridges!

All (most !) household waste recycling centres should be equipped to take in and store 'dangerous' chemicals that could reasonably be found in someone's home i.e. not commercial stuff or drum loads of stuff. The chap you spoke to was either a clueless agency bod, or someone who knew how much it costs to dispose of some of these chemicals so was hoping you'd make the problem disappear

[myglaren]

Rather than weedkiller I use a 'thermal lance', a blowlamp with a long snout, to kill weeds with heat. Doesn't actually 'burn' them, just grills them a bit.
Similar to this.

The gas has increased in price a lot recently though. Used to buy it locally but now get several cans at a time from eBay.
There are electric versions, like hot air guns that are probably more cost effective.

Otherwise Soda Crystals are effective but watch out for where it goes, I just use it for moss on the paths mainly.
Usually have 5L of White Vinegar around but that is mostly as a 'fabric conditioner, not horticultural.

We had a thing that electrolytically removed the silver from used fixer and it was bought from us every couple of months. We did have a lot of used fixer though.
Colour developer can be nasty. I seem to remember that the EDTA NaFe was particularly frowned on.

[Zelandeth]

I think it's one of those areas where you'll always hear horror stories from *someone* regarding reactions, but if you ensure due diligence the actual odds of trouble are vanishingly unlikely.

Which is why I add the additional fill, run and activate drive the car to ensure it's not hiding in areas like the heater matrix or stuck behind the thermostat, drain again step after just doing a hose based flush of the system.

If you wanted to monitor things you could always pull the stat after six months or so to check for any buildup. Given at least one of yours goes away fully for the winter that probably would be a good opportunity.

[CitroJim]

There's two types of Roundup available. You need the Glyphosate based one, not the Pathetic Acid based one.

Thanks Bobins Ahh, perhaps because I bought my last lot in Tesco.. I shall check labels more carefully next time

All (most !) household waste recycling centres should be equipped to take in and store 'dangerous' chemicals that could reasonably be found in someone's home i.e. not commercial stuff or drum loads of stuff. The chap you spoke to was either a clueless agency bod, or someone who knew how much it costs to dispose of some of these chemicals so was hoping you'd make the problem disappear

Very likely on both counts. To be honest, a look around the site did not reveal any obvious spot to deposit chemicals so I'll likely just leave them clearly marked in a 5 litre bottle in the vicinity of the waste oil tank for the staff to deal with... If they chuck it in with the printer cartridges then that's up to them...

I think it's one of those areas where you'll always hear horror stories from *someone* regarding reactions, but if you ensure due diligence the actual odds of trouble are vanishingly unlikely.

That's nicely reassuring Zel, thanks!

[CitroJim]

Rather than weedkiller I use a 'thermal lance', a blowlamp with a long snout, to kill weeds with heat. Doesn't actually 'burn' them, just grills them a bit.
Similar to this.

My neighbour tried one of those on his block paved drive... The weeds just giggled at him... Seems it was a bit of a toy one. Now a proper flame-thrower is what you want but the risk of collateral damage is high...

We had a thing that electrolytically removed the silver from used fixer and it was bought from us every couple of months. We did have a lot of used fixer though.

I'm not quite in that league Steve - yet! I've seem some recommendations that it can be absorbed into steel wool to render the fixer suitable for drain disposal and others evaporate used fixer outside in the sun until just the metallic sliver is left as a sludge...

Colour developer can be nasty. I seem to remember that the EDTA NaFe was particularly frowned on.

I understand the old C-22 process and E-3 and E-4 reversal processes were really quite nasty. Modern C-41 and E-6 processes seems less so...

Doesn't stop me donning PPE when using it though...

NaFe is still a component of the Bleach/Blix. It makes it look a very pretty colour The components of colour fixer is reported to liberate an unspecified very toxic gas on contact with acid... I did wonder why an acid stop bath is never used in colour processing. Now I know why!

[Zelandeth]

Never spill Blix on a white worktop or it will never be quite the same again.

No I definitely didn't learn that myself...nope. There definitely wasn't a nearly neon yellow splodge there for the next ~15 years and still there when we moved out. I definitely wasn't responsible for that.

[bobins]

Repeat after me : "I was nowhere near when the alleged incident may or may not have taken place"

[PaulC5]

A safety data sheet suggests mixing BLIX (ammonium thiosulphate and sodium carbonate) with acids can give off sulphur dioxide, and mixing with strong bases of sodium peroxide will liberate ammonia. So you would not want to breath these gases in as they could burn your lungs as they react with water/mucus.
https://www.freestylephoto.com/static/p ... z2lcD1ch3k

[myglaren]

The first I have heard of BLIX is here today.

[Zelandeth]

The first I have heard of BLIX is here today.

I think it's a (relatively) recent thing, it's just combining what used to be two separate steps if memory serves.

As far as horrendous chemicals go, yeah the development process for the colour reversal films are really quite nasty (and fluffing expensive). One of the main reasons that we're left with only two labs in the UK that process them. Nobody still making the stuff probably since Fuji packed it in also has something to do with it...

On that note Jim, if you'd like a roll of Velvia 100 to do something with do let me know. We may as well enjoy it while we still can get it developed!

[CitroJim]

Never spill Blix on a white worktop or it will never be quite the same again.

I've already discovered it's staining properties Zel Happily, on something that did not matter...

I'm having a new bathroom fitted soon as that's been taken into consideration

Kits for home processing E-6 are fairly readily available but quite pricey. Unless doing it at scale, definitely best to let a trusted lab do it.

The Velvia is tempting No real special occasions on the horizon yet to justify it but if one does.... Thank you!

A safety data sheet suggests mixing BLIX (ammonium thiosulphate and sodium carbonate) with acids can give off sulphur dioxide, and mixing with strong bases of sodium peroxide will liberate ammonia. So you would not want to breath these gases in as they could burn your lungs as they react with water/mucus.

Indeed, not good stuff to inhale Paul Thanks for that!

The first I have heard of BLIX is here today.

Maybe a term exclusive to we amateurs Steve. Being one, it's all I've known. It comes up frequently in fervent discussions about the relative merits of separate bleach and fix baths as against the combined blix one. I don't have a view - Yet...

Repeat after me : "I was nowhere near when the alleged incident may or may not have taken place"

Always a good policy in all aspects of life Bobins