Since getting my pug, my main beef has been the crappy instrument panel which you find on the standard models. My main concern is not having a temperature gauge, and I miss the luxury of having rev counter.
After picking up an STDT cluster I went about the conversion. Having being unable to find a guide on how to do this conversion, and seeing much debate on the possibility, I decided to just figured it out myself.
"Smug mode"
Here goes.
Standard instrument panel wiring ( Clock, Speedo, fuel gauge);
Viewed from the rear;
Plug A - 6 pin - Grey;
1. Pads – ( - means its neutral until the sensor is opened, + means live with ignition or switch ( these may be useful if fitting LED lights) )
2. Water (expansion tank level) –
3. 12volts + (relayed with ignition)
5. /
5. Fuel Empty light –
5. /
Plug B – 9 pin – Green;
1. Choke –
2. Cat warning light –
3. Fuel sender sensor –
4. / ground –
5. Dash lights + (from dimmer)
6. / ground –
7. Water in fuel –
8. 12volts + (relayed with ignition)
9. / Extreme coolant temperature warning (temp stop) –
Plug C – 8 pin – Yellow;
1. / 12 volts +
2. Oil pressure warning (oil, temp, stop) –
3. Alternator output 14 volts when generating (cancels out the battery light) +
4. Heater Plug +
5. Extreme coolant temperature warning (temp stop) –
6. / 12 volts +
7. Temperature sender sensor/switch (activates hand brake light) –
8. /
Plug D – 8 pin – White;
1. Hand brake on –
2. Indicator (Left, Right) –
3. Dash Lights, ground –
4. Ground –
5. Full Beam +
6. Dipped Beam +
7. Side Lights +
8. / ?
9. Clock 12 volts (permanent) +
10. 12 volts (relayed with ignition) +
New cluster from an STDT (Oil pressure light, Fuel, Speedo, rev counter, water level, temperature gauge).
Knowledge of wiring is owed to the noble courtesy of http://www.205gtidrivers.com/articles/m ... panel.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Update: My Diesel Rev Counter Plug (4 pin) seems to be different from the above link. I’m guessing it being a diesel, using a flywheel sensor.
Viewed when dismantled suggests pin;
1. 12 volt (White wire on plug/Red on circuit board)
2. Earth (Green/Blue)
3. Earth (Blue/Blue)
4. Sensor (Yellow/Yellow)
How the sensor works on the diesel, my knowledge is vague. I think fly wheel sensor works on an induction coil which generates an alternating current when the magnet is stimulated. This sends a rev dependent frequency to the dial which itself need to be primed by a 12v dc input.
Not that I have tried this yet, but my plan is to connect the two main wires from the sensor to pin 4 and Pin 2 or 3 (both 2 and 3 are looped on the circuit board). Then I plan to directly ground it all to the engine with pin 2 or 3. I will use a redundant 12 volt terminal from the old instrument panel since I have only used one of the three available. Please update me if this is incorrect. I mean to try this another day.
New wiring scheme for the STDt instrument panel. The terminals can be pulled from the plastic plug housing and relocated with ease. I felt it prudent to label each wire prior using masking tape, so that the process can be reversed.
The table below is the transformation between terminals and plugs. Left column is for the new cluster. Right column is from the old standard
STDT/Standard
A4 C5
A5 D4
A6 C7
A8 B7
A9 B2
- -
B3 B5
B4 D3
B5 B1
B6 D10
B7 A2
B9 D2
- -
C1 C3
C3 D1
C6 D7
C7 D6
- -
D1 C4
D2 C2
D3 A1
D4 D5
D6 A5
D7 B3
Connectors that I didn't use;
• B8, A3 (12 volts)
• D9 (permanent 12 volts)
• C8 ?
• D8 ?
Well my new dash wiring scheme has been successful, seems that the loom is pretty much the same on all models. All works great except the indicator display light, which only displays one direction. This is due to there only being one indicator light on the standard dash for both left/right indicator signals. Both these could be paired, but I plan to get both working independently. Please let me in on any known solution.
It is also possibly to maintain your original mileage. The speedo mechanism is the the same for both standard and gti dashes. You can simply remove the dial, then the face, and transfer the mechanism.
The temperature gauge also needed a sender sensor on the thermostat housing instead of the standard switch.
Unfortunately, during this project I discovered that may mild temperature warning light had never been working, which I have diagnosed due to a broken wire. I suspect that my head gasket may be on the way out, since I’m getting an air build up in the coolant. Seems the new gauge may have come too late.
