Xantia 1.9TD and 2.1TD Aux Belt Tensioner Replacement

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CitroJim
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Xantia 1.9TD and 2.1TD Aux Belt Tensioner Replacement

Post by CitroJim » 28 Dec 2008, 10:20

The spring loaded auxillary belt tensioner as used on the later (aircon) 1.9TD and 2.1TD fail due to the needle roller bearings failing and digging into the bearing sleeve, causing it to eventually seize. It gets "notchy" to begin with.

The tensioner can be replaced in-situ with minimal dismantling but access is poor. Here is how.

The correct GSF part number for the tensioner is N13179.

Essential Tools:

A 6mm ball-ended Allen key;

An 8mm Allen key;

19mm Ring Spanner;

A Dental Inspection Mirror;

A 1/4" square tool for the eccentric tensioner adjustment;

A Tensioner Retraction Tool.

The retraction tool can be made from a short 3/8" socket extension with flats ground on the end to take a 15mm spanner. They're normally just a tad too long and a couple of mm may need to be ground off the end to ensure an easy fit into the square in the tensioner.

Mine looks like this:

Image

Set the car on high, support on axle stands, remove the front RH wheel and the mudshield to expose the auxillary drive belt.

Disconnect the air temperature sensor on the air pipe to the inlet manifold (2.1TD only), disconnect the pipe and hold out of the way.

With reference to the following diagram:

Image

Apply the retraction tool to the spring tensioner (item 3) and rotate it fully clockwise (as if you were looking at it head-on) and pin it using a 5mm bolt in its fully retracted position. That's if you can and it is not seized. There is a hole in the tensioner body that registers with a hole in the block for the pinning. The hole can just be seen on the lower edge of item 3.

Slacken the eccentric tensioner (item 7) using an 8mm Allen key and allow it to rotate to its minimum eccentricity. Remove the auxillary belt, taking note of how it runs. Draw a sketch.

Remove the eccentric tensioner completely to improve access.

Remove the pin holding the spring tensioner in it's fully retracted position by working the retraction tool until the pin is free to slide out. Allow the tensioner to fall to it's fully relaxed position (fully anticlockwise), It should spring there on its own but may need some force if it is seized. This will take most of the tension out of the spring (item 5).

Remove the top spring stud (6mm Allen), recover the nut and spacer and don't allow it to drop into the abyss below the HP pump!!! Stuff some rag in there!

Using the tensioner retraction tool now slightly rotate the tensioner until the head of the lower spring stud lines up with the access hole in the side of the HP Pump/Alternator casting. You'll need the dental mirror to see it!

Using the short end of the 6mm Allen key, carefully engage it with the stud head (by feel as you cannot really see what you are doing because access is so poor) and start to undo the stud. Once loose, use the bell-end of the key to unscrew it but DO NOT fully remove the stud. Just undo it until it is free of the tensioner and the spring is loose.

Working from underneath, loosen the 19mm bolt attaching the tensioner to the engine block until it is loose. Do not remove the bolt fully.

Work (wriggle) the tensioner out from underneath and remove fully, ensuring you have recovered the washer between the tensioner and engine.

The new tensioner will come with a new bolt and washers. Hold the washer that goes against the engine with some grease. Offer the new tensioner into position and tighten the 19mm bolt. Ensure, as you are doing this all by feel, that you have not cross-threaded the bolt.

Position the tensioner and spring so that the lower Allen stud can be screwed back. Use again the ball-end of the key. Help here is almost essential unless you're an octopus as the tensioner needs to be held steady whilst the spring is positioned and the stud screwed up. Tighten fully.

Line up the top of the spring and replace the top stud, spacer and nut. Again, help is almost essential to keep everything lined up. Blu Tak is handy to hold the nut!

Replace the eccentric tensioner loosely. Pin the spring tensioner into the fully retracted position and replace the aux belt. It's easiest to put it on the crank pulley last of all. Mind your fingertips!!!

Adjust the eccentric tensioner using a 1/4" square drive tool and an 8mm Allen key until the belt is so tensioned that the setting pin in the spring tensioner is loose. Remove the setting pin. The belt is now correctly tensioned.

Further reassembly is a reversal of disassembly.

This is what happens to the tensioner bearing sleeve:

Image
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red_dwarfers
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Post by red_dwarfers » 29 Dec 2008, 23:21

Very good write up Jim :D
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Xantia 1.9TD and 2.1TD Aux Belt Tensioner Replacement

Post by Gregg1100 » 15 Jun 2009, 12:19

Hi Jim,
I bought the new bearing/tensioner N13179 as you said, but am not now physically able to do the job. So I will have to either get it done, or it can sit there and rot, or be sold. Why for the sake of 2 extra inches clearance do they make it so hard.?
I will probably just finish the rad replacement, bundle the new tensioner back in its box and sell the car. Easier than sodding about like this.
The car will be advertised in FCF first, then other outlets. Just put a new MOT on it too.
Greg
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90 Kawa EN 500 A1- was running---now dead again
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54 Fiat Punto 1.2 Dynamic

Old Xantias- 16v 2litre 1997 VSX, 2 x 1993 TD Lx, S2 SX 1.9TD
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Xantia 1.9TD and 2.1TD Aux Belt Tensioner Replacement

Post by Gregg1100 » 05 Jul 2009, 14:46

Hi,
I wondered if dropping the top engine mounting and letting engine down would give more accessablity to the tensioner area.? The bolt holes are there to fit the manual tensioner too, so why didn't cit keep on with that type.?
Greg
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90 Kawa EN 500 A1- was running---now dead again
04 Kawa GPZ 500 E10 -alive and well.
54 Fiat Punto 1.2 Dynamic

Old Xantias- 16v 2litre 1997 VSX, 2 x 1993 TD Lx, S2 SX 1.9TD
Old Bx's--3 x 1.9 D, 1x 1.6 Auto, 1 x 1.9 GTi, 1 x 1.9 TZS

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Re: Xantia 1.9TD and 2.1TD Aux Belt Tensioner Replacement

Post by CitroJim » 05 Jul 2009, 16:17

Gregg1100 wrote:
The bolt holes are there to fit the manual tensioner too, so why didn't cit keep on with that type.?
Greg


All down to costs Greg :( Put an automatic tensioner on and you don't bneed a skilled person to adjust it on the production line. Time and money saved. Ditto bayonet radiator hoses :twisted:

I see no reason not to retrofit a manual arrangement. You'd need to recover the necessary bits from an early scrapper though.
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Post by John Plum » 04 Nov 2009, 11:51

Jim, do you tension the spring with your spanner and 1/4" drive from underneath?

I found out- I found it worked from above the engine, with precisely the correct length extension.
Last edited by John Plum on 06 Dec 2009, 16:14, edited 1 time in total.
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Tensioner Spring

Post by John Plum » 06 Dec 2009, 16:11

Is it straight forward to swap the spring (replacing with new) at the same time?

UPdate - Answer: Yes, just remove the bottom and top bolts completely. I found refitting easier to locate the bottom bolt than to remove it. The spring was easy to line up without compression.
For removal, I had to remove the rad->oil cooler hose in order to get a hex socket into it which could clear the hydraulic pipes in front. An allen key would not loosen the lower bolt in the turning space otherwise. And, for that I had to cut the water pipe off...and then found there were none available in the UK - on factory order only.
Last edited by John Plum on 15 Dec 2009, 18:46, edited 1 time in total.
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3/8 square drive tensioner spring

Post by John Plum » 13 Dec 2009, 19:28

John Plum wrote:Jim, do you tension the spring with your spanner and 3/8 square drive from underneath?


I found out- I found it worked from above the engine, with precisely the correct length extension.

WARNING: my old tensioner worked well with an adapted short 3/8 extension bar, as Jim describes, which gives the correct clearance to get an adequate turn. However, my brand new replacement tensioner didn't take the same 3/8" drive extension bar, and just swivelled with little tension on the spring. I had to file down a 1/2 drive" extension to fit, slightly oversize, and which also was longer as a drive..15mm!

Then I found a 3/8" drain plug socket, which I noticed had a longer square drive 15mm long (instead of the paltry 10mm of the short extension bar), and that worked, as in gained adequate purchase. So, the drive needs to go far down enough, in some cases anyway. The trouble with a socket though, is that a tool plus socket doesn't get enough clearance.... and many extension bars don't have a long drive; Jim's looks like it is longer to me.
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Xantia 1.9TD and 2.1TD Aux Belt Tensioner Replacement

Post by Gregg1100 » 08 May 2010, 16:25

Hi,
I have finally got someone to do the auxiliary belt and tensioner for me.
Unfortunately it was not the tension roller that was at fault, but the spring itself. The metal forming the ring at one end of spring had fractured, allowing it to rattle, and eat into the holding bolt.

I tried to get the part number from the citro site, but couldn't get to the page I required. Searches called auxiliary tension spring came out at a big zilch. Cambelts, and aux belts also came up with a zero.

Can anyone tell me the path to get to the drawing with all the tensioner gubbins, or the part number for the spring??. The price may be handy too---to see how many drinking vouchers I need to forfeit to buy the infernal bit.
Thanks,
Greg
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90 Kawa EN 500 A1- was running---now dead again
04 Kawa GPZ 500 E10 -alive and well.
54 Fiat Punto 1.2 Dynamic

Old Xantias- 16v 2litre 1997 VSX, 2 x 1993 TD Lx, S2 SX 1.9TD
Old Bx's--3 x 1.9 D, 1x 1.6 Auto, 1 x 1.9 GTi, 1 x 1.9 TZS

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Post by CitroJim » 08 May 2010, 17:48

Hi Greg,

I can but I beleieve GSF sell this item under this part number. The description is very poor..

135PC0100 RIBBED BELT TENSIONER XAN 1.9TD + AIR 96> SELL WITH N13179 43.70

The Citroen part number is 5751 81 and shown here in the picture:

Image
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Xantia 1.9TD and 2.1TD Aux Belt Tensioner Replacement

Post by Gregg1100 » 08 May 2010, 18:35

Hi Jim,
Thanks for quick reply and the info. How can GSF justify 40+ notes for a spring.? And how much will one be from main stealers??.

I have the citro site in front of me now---where did you find that page.?
I have looked in Engine--it won't be in Suspension , brakes, bodywork, transmission etc. The Mechanical ( General ) wont open for me. Must be in there, as I have looked all over the Engine part. Trust the frogs to naff it up and make it hard for us foreigners. :yes:
Thanks,
Greg

I have just realised that this post in is wrong place-sorry. :oops:
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90 Kawa EN 500 A1- was running---now dead again
04 Kawa GPZ 500 E10 -alive and well.
54 Fiat Punto 1.2 Dynamic

Old Xantias- 16v 2litre 1997 VSX, 2 x 1993 TD Lx, S2 SX 1.9TD
Old Bx's--3 x 1.9 D, 1x 1.6 Auto, 1 x 1.9 GTi, 1 x 1.9 TZS

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Re: Xantia 1.9TD and 2.1TD Aux Belt Tensioner Replacement

Post by CitroJim » 08 May 2010, 18:45

Gregg1100 wrote:I have just realised that this post in is wrong place-sorry. :oops:


No worries Greg, I moved your other thread to the Citroen area and replied there too...

I cheated and used my old off-line Laser parts catalogue to find it..

The spring should be found in the alternator area. Go to the engine and then click on picture of the alternator and choose the alternator brackets :roll:

I know.. It's an illogical place for us but it does have some French logic about it I guess...
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tensioner spring

Post by John Plum » 08 May 2010, 19:25

Hi Greg,

I Replaced mine...also had seemed to be wearing and rattling.
I thought i might not because of the price, but then figured well, it's quite some sprung you know, and must perform well. I'm a thrifty person, and had been used to old mini prices and things like that. But now even one of those might be a fair bit for a valve spring. I used to get race performance ones for about £10 each in 1995.

Anyway, I got my xantia belt tensioner spring on ebay for about £35.00, but there were more expensive sellers. £40 ish is definitely the right price, but you might saver just a few quid there, if you're lucky.

Runs beautifully now.
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Tensioners and bit's

Post by dieseldoggy » 20 Jun 2010, 02:12

Hi all ive got to my one so been having a look.GSF want £52 inc vat ish.per item.
But ive found some on flea bay.http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT So should do the trick.
PS ive notice that the jockey wheels are plastic on the ones ive looked at? yuk! one on mine is metal
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Tensioned up tightly?

Post by dieseldoggy » 22 Jun 2010, 09:13

Hi Greg1100 did you get a spring yet? I'm sorting mine asap and if the spring on mines ok you are welcome to it.i'l check to see if hole round and not elongated but that's not the problem on mine it the bearing/wheel that's gone so should be ok?
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