C3 Pluriel Electronic nightmare!!

[AllanA]

Please, Marc if you see this post I'd really appreciate it if you could provide me with a wiring schematic specific to my car. VIN provided a few posts above.

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, so here are some Diagrams for you:

With the exception of the wiring codes, most of the component codes are indexed here:

PSA Electrical Diagrams - Wiring & Symbols Codes Index

Injection Layout



Injection Wiring



ABS Layout



ABS Wiring

[GiveMeABreak]

As for the fault codes, there's nothing in any detail I have:

D308: No communication with the engine ECU fault: Not characterised

and nothing for the other 2, sorry.

[AllanA]

Marc, thanks very much for all the diagrams which I'm sure will help me sort this car and get brownie points from my wife!!

[GiveMeABreak]

No worries, and thank you for your Forum donation. Any official part numbers or part diagrams you may need, just put a request up in the parts thread here:

viewtopic.php?p=685750#p685750

If you need another system diagram, let me know.

[AllanA]

So, having had a nice break away in Lisbon for a few days I'm back to fix this beast!

Firstly I made up some fine backprobes using an unwound G string. From a guitar, not the other type! Probes on a multimeter are to large for back probing so this G string is 0.020" which is strong and flexible.

Following some advice from ozvtr and schematics from Marc, I Checked engine ecu grounding at pins G4 and H4 on the black 32 pin connector, 0 ohms on both.
With the ignition key in and turned on I probed pin M2 of the maroon 48 pin connector - 12.36 volts
With the ignition key in and turned on I probed pin M3 of the maroon 48 pin connector - 10.35 volts
With the ignition key in and turned on I probed pin C3 of the black 32 pin connector - 11.72 volts
With the ignition key in and turned on I probed pin A1 of the grey 32 pin connector - 10.65 volts

I ran Lexia diagnostics and still the same with ABS and power steering faults showing up as shown in posts above and also no comms with engine ECU.

I clicked into the BSI section and ran some activation tests on the ABS. Pump runs fine, inlet and exhaust valves click as required.

All other functions such as lights, horn, wipers, sunroof, aircon, radio tested all ok.

I swapped out the BSM fuse box for a known good one from another Pluriel and re-ran the tests above. All the same so no faults with the original BSM fuses or relays.

Finally I checked that economy mode was off and tried to start the engine. Turning the key to start position I hear a relay click but no engine turning over. Battery is new and fully charged.
So since Lexia has no comms with the engine ECU and the ABS and power steering can't commuicate with the engine ECU, I'm inclined to think the ECU is toast.

I've ordered a replacement one sold with warranty, from a Pluriel of the same year and with same specs as mine so I'm reasonaby sure it will be plug and play. Lets see when it arrives!

Interestingly, I called in to our Citroen dealership to ask the price of a new BSM and an ECU. These are apparently no longer available and the only thing they could suggest is a used one or get mine repaired.

Will keep you updated when the ECU arrives!!

[GiveMeABreak]

Be aware, BSI and Engine ECU modules are not plug and play! They are a matched set. When you said in your post

Finally I checked that economy mode was off and tried to start the engine. Turning the key to start position I hear a relay click but no engine turning over. Battery is new and fully charged.

was this after you had disconnected / reconnected the battery? If so, you'll never get it started without reinitialising the key / fob, as the starter will just turn over.

Make sure you follow the procedure to reinitialise the fob / keys:
BSI Reset / Battery Disconnect / Reconnect Procedure

The engine fuse box is ok to swap if the correct model, but not the engine ECU unless it has been virginised, in which case you would have to reprogramme it anyway and match it to the BSI.

Lastly, be aware that if the Pluriel has a CAN CAN network, then you need to make sure your Lexia is a full chip version, as this is one of the common reasons why some ECUs cannot be read, especially the engine and ABS / ESP ECUs.

I'm just trying to make sure you are aware of all this otherwise you may be wasting your time.

[AllanA]

Hi Mark. Thanks for your post.

The Lexia I have is a full chip one that I have used for a couple of years and it has always read the diagnostics fine.

I did do a bsi reset after changing over the bsm and refitting the battery and also clearing economy mode in the bsi funtions in Lexia. Remote locking is ok and Lexia test on immo showed ok.

The car I've obtained the ECU from also has the bsi available but I have no idea of odo reading but am assuming it's much greater than the current 112k kms we have.

If I swap out both the ECU and BSI would I still be able use the current ign key?

[GiveMeABreak]

No, because the immobiliser chip in the key or fob, once programmed, is set to the current BSI / Engine ECU set, so you will have the same issue, starter turning but the engine ECU won't authorise starting. So without trying to change the transponder chips in the keys or fobs, you'll need a new key or fob to programme using Lexia.

As for the mileage, yes, if you change the BSI, the minute it is connected and powered it will assume the higher mileage of either the BSI or the instrument cluster - and immediately set both to whichever has the higher mileage, so be wary.

[AllanA]

Wondering if there's a way to get the pin changed in the replacement ECU so it's the same as the original one I have. We bought the car new so do have a 4 digit code and a 5 digit code on a label that has Company Code wtitten on it

[GiveMeABreak]

Can't be done as far as I'm aware without virginising the whole unit, which will then require reprogramming and pairing again.

Your confidential customer code is what will be required when you programme your keys - and for the BSI and the engine ECU - but these can't be changed in a unit that has already been programmed to another vehicle - unless the ECU has been virginised. Otherwise your car wouldn't be very secure if the engine ECU could just be changed like that.

There may well be some nefarious tools out there that claim to do various things, but nothing we can advise on here for obvious reasons.

[AllanA]

I'll have a browse on the internet to see if I can find anything that may virginise my ECU :)

[wheeler]

Yes the 'new' ECU wont work without the matching BSI & key however there are companies that will clone the security data from your ECU to the 'new' one if you send them both ECU's. This means it will be plug & play and also will retain the original 4 digit pin code in the ECU for future things like key coding.

If you do manage to get hold of the matching BSI & key and you want to test it starts first without risking it transferring a higher miles just unplug & leave the instrument panel disconnected before you fit the donor BSI. If it doesn't start & it turns out the ECU/BSI was not the issue you can just refit your original BSI & the mileage will be exactly the same as before as the instrument panel was not connected to it.

[AllanA]

Thanks wheeler. I think your suggestion of cloning my existing ECU is my preferred way to go. I live in the Azores which is part of Portugal so I'll see if I can find somewhere in Portugal that can do this. Otherwise I'll have to send the units to somewhere in the UK so will probably incur the wrath of Portuguese customs charges on their return

I read somewhere there is a company called BB something. Anyone have an idea if they are still operating and their location?

[wheeler]

Just search ebay for ECU cloning service, there are plenty offering the service, in the UK anyway.
Could be worth contacting a few with your exact ECU details