Front brake hoses
From French Car Wiki
Front brake hoses are a common cause of MoT fails or advisories. It's not a difficult or even messy job if you do it the right way.
- 8mm deep(ish) socket to undo and tighten the bleed nipples - nothing else will do; you have been warned!
- 8mm ring spanner to open/close the bleed nipples
- 12mm ring spanner for pressure release valve
- 11mm gland nut spanner (gland nut on inboard pipe into female hose end)
- 14mm gland nut spanner (hose male end into calliper)
- Sharp knife
- Hose clamp,
- You can make one from 2 bits of hardwood about ½" x ¾" and 3" long, a couple of small coach-bolts, nuts and washers to fit. Take the sharp corners of the bit that clamps the hose for those occasions when you need to clamp a hose that don't want to have to replace!
- Xantia brake-bleeding kit:
- 1. Bleed Bottle
- Plastic 500ml drink bottle with clear polythene pipe sized for the brake nipples that goes to bottom of bottle, a much shorter second pipe only just goes through the lid (to suck/blow LHM in/out of bottle). Both pipes are a tight fit through holes drilled in lid so that the bottle can be used to suck LHM out of the reservoir.
- 2. Cheap 500ml cook's plastic measuring jug
- used (only half full) for topping up the reservoir with LHM.
- 3. 2L plastic ice-cream tub or similar
- for LHM-y waste and, with a lid, doubles as leak- and dirt-proof storage for the kit.
PARTS & CONSUMABLES
- Pair of brake hoses - you'll probably find two lengths quoted, 385mm and 400 (or 402), the shorter one is correct for all Xantias except those with the biggest (288 x 28mm) front discs: S1 - only V6; S2 - HDi 110 & V6, plus 2.0 CT & 2.1 TD after RP 8001. However, as the longer ones are exactly the same except for the slight increase in length, there is no problem in using them on on any Xantia - and they often are!
- Quality kitchen roll (the cheap stuff tears too easily and doesn't mop up so much)
- PlusGas or similar penetrating fluid.
- LHM - 1L should be plenty.
SAFETY WARNINGS: If the car falls off the supports while your head is under the wheel arch, it's likely to break your neck. The handbrake operates on the FRONT wheels.
- Chock the back wheels very securely.
- Slacken the front wheel bolts slightly.
- Raise the suspension to HIGH;
- with the engine idling, move the Height Control Lever (between the front seats) to its rear-most (HIGH) position and wait until the car has stopped rising.
- Support the car very securely with axle stands under the front jacking points.
- Lower the suspension
- (Carefully! as this will lift the front of the car further) by moving the suspension control lever forward one position at a time to the forward-most position, LOW.
- De-pressurise the hydraulic system, by undoing the release valve (12mm hex arrowed in top photo - seen from underneath) no more than ONE turn with the engine still idling.
- Switch off the engine.
- Remove front road wheel on one side.
- Pop the rubber cap off the bleed nipple
- Squirt PlusGas onto bleed nipple and the connection on each end of the hose - make sure that you get plenty on the inboard gland nut
- Check that the new hose is the same as the old one!
- Clamp the old hose several inches above calliper
- Clean the calliper around hose boss to avoid dirt getting into the calliper when the hose is undone.
- Cut the old hose just above the calliper.
- Unscrew old hose from calliper (14mm),
- Cover the inboard (female) end of new hose;
- either tear a finger out of a disposable vinyl glove and fit it over the end to keep the muck out, or if the hose comes sealed in a plastic bag, just tear open one end enough to push out the 14mm end of the hose leaving the rest of the hose in the bag.
- Screw new hose into calliper and do up tight with gland-nut spanner (3rd photo)
- Put a wad of kitchen roll beneath the inboard joint to soak up the LHM that will dribble out.
- Undo the inboard joint ;
- undo the 11mm gland nut behind the bracket (4th photo) through which the metal hose-end fits. Then grab the hose-end with mole-grips and wrestle it out of the bracket.
- Clean the bracket and gland nut to avoid crap going down the new hose into the calliper
- Fit inboard end of new hose into the bracket after removing the 'protection' from the hose end.
- Do up the 11mm gland nut:-
- Push it against the spring-steel (anti-rattle) shim while holding the hose firmly in the bracket. Start the thread by hand to make sure it's not cross-threaded then do up tight (not too tight) with 11mm gland-nut spanner.
- For the other side repeat steps 8. through 22. above.
- Bleed the front brakes thoroughly (see separate guide).
- Fresh LHM is bright green, but greenish-yellow is the best you can expect if the hydraulic system hasn't been flushed and refilled with new LHM in the last 3-4 years. Bleed until the fluid is at least clean and free of bubbles.
- Wipe up all LHM spillage - so any leakage will show up.
- Pressure test the hose joints (and bleed nipples)
- by pushing hard (ONCE ONLY) on the brake pedal for 10 seconds or so and then inspecting the joints and nipples for any weeps.
- Reverse steps 6. through 1. above.
- Road-test the car.
- If the brakes 'hesitate' at all, there's air in the hydraulic system; bleed the front brakes again. If, after the car has been standing over-night, the STOP light takes more than about 10 seconds to go out or the brakes 'hesitate', a sphere is probably going flat and leaking gas into the hydraulic system.