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This is the sandbox

Feel free to edit this page, add extra linked pages, practice formatting techniques

The best way to learn about editing a wiki is to look at the construction of existing pages.

Assuming that you are logged-in to the wiki, you will see:

  • At the top of most pages, and beside some of the headers, the word edit (in blue).
  • If you click on this you will be taken to the editing window, which shows the source-code for the page (or section of page).
  • You will see that it is mostly plain text (the words on the page) with a few symbols like square brackets and vertical bars in the places where links or special formatting are applied.
  • If you click the show preview button at the bottom of the editing page, you can see the rendered content with the source code in a box below it.

Don't worry about looking at the source code of an existing page, or even playing with the formatting symbols, you can't break anything unless you hit the save button, and even then most changes can be reverted if necessary.

The most useful formatting symbols

There is a really good summary at the mediawiki site

Adding a new page or two..

Go to the page (or one of the pages where you want your new page to be linked from, open the edit window, and type in your new page name where you want the link to appear, but surround the new page name with double square brackets [[ ]] . Then select preview, chack that the link (and any surrounding text) look OK and select Save.

Now, on the saved page, you should see your new link. Click on it, and you will be taken to the edit window for your new page.

Was that enough to be going on with??

Now that that you have some tools to work with, go to the sandbox, edit the existing content there, add a few pages until you feel comfortable.


A question that is often asked is how to replace spheres, how to change the LHM, use Hydraflush and bleed brakes. This is a (hopefully) a concise guide to these three related jobs. I post here so that comments may be added and "peer reviewed" before it is moved to a more appropriate area of the forum.


Pre Requisites

Before starting, ensure you have the following tools and sundries and first aid kit:

  • A good sphere removal tool. Either the genuine Pleiades item or a "Xac Special" A tool is essential (but a good hammer and chisel will suffice if you are not intending to re-use the spheres).
  • Ramps and axle stands
  • A 12mm spanner for the bleed valve on the pressure regulator, a very good, slim 8mm ring spanner for the caliper bleed nipples and a very high quality 9mm flare nut spanner for the union on the anti sink sphere.
  • A clean 500ml glass jar and a length of plastic hose that is a snug fit on the bleed nipples.
  • A jar of clean petrol and a clean paint brush
  • A 4.5mm hydraulic seal for the Anti-Sink Sphere (the old one can often be re-used, but not always)
  • A normal household broom (you'll see why later!)


Starting with the most difficult, the rear corner spheres. These are often very tight and their removal MUST be carried out initially with the suspension on high and under full pressure to avoid damage to the suspension cylinders and hydraulic pipes. The car MUST be very firmly supported and preferably on ramps. In any case, so supported that if it suddenly drops it won't crush you. So, up on ramps, engine running and suspension on high, you need to apply the sphere tool and "crack" each sphere off by about an eight to a quarter of a turn (i.e. just get them started). They will be tight and you may need to use your boot to get them moving. Once they are moving, put the suspension on low, depressurise by opening the 12mm bleed valve on the pressure regulator by no more than half a turn and go back, still ensuring the car is fully and safely supported and unscrew them fully. Be prepared for LHM spillage. Clean up, recover the old sphere seals if they got left behind in the groove on the sphere housing. Get your new sphere seals, dip them in clean LHM and place them in the groove, never place them on the sphere as they will not seat properly and may get cut. Screw the new sphere on hand-tight only.

Whilst you are there, do the Anti-Sink sphere. This is the one in the middle rear. before you can unscrew it, the small hydraulic pipe going into the rear of it MUST be undone and pulled out. For this you need the 9mm Flare Nut spanner. The union may be tight and take care not to round it off, hence the good spanner. A bit of Plus Gas is a good idea to help it along. Once the union nut is undone, pull the hydraulic pipe out of the sphere and note if the hydraulic seal came out with it. More than likely it will have stayed in the sphere. You MUST use a new one on installing the new sphere. Again, be prepared for a good spill of LHM.

You can now undo the old sphere off the bracket. It may be tight and the bracket is not that strong so take care. Strictly, this sphere does not need a new ring seal but it's not a bad idea to fit one. Screw the new sphere into the bracket, dip the new pipe hydraulic seal in LHM and fit it over the end of the pipe until it rests against the flare on the pipe. Push the pipe into the sphere and screw up the union. They don't need to be done mega tightly and it'll be about right when it is as far into the new sphere as it was in the old, usually thios depth can be gauged by where the rust begins on the union threads. On repressurising the system, check for leaks and if there is a weep, just nip the union up a touch until the leak stops.

They're the hard ones done. The front corners are easy, Just undo them (with the system on low and depressurised of course) be prepared for spillage, clean up, dip the new seals in LHM, place the seals in the grooves and screw the new sphers in hand-tight.

The same applies to the accumulator but access is often poor and you really need the front end up on ramps or stands to get good access to it to enable a good swing on the removal tool. The Accumulator is often very tight. Mind the radiator! Again, clean up, Dip the seal in LHM and place in the groove before screwing the sphere in hand-tight.

Finally, nip up the 12mm bleed valve, start up, allow pressure to come up, set on high, top up the LHM and do a really good session of Citarobics.


  • Bandaids.
  • Cold refreshments.

LHM Changes

  1. Set on low, depressurise, disconnect all the rubber pipes on top of the LHM reservoir. If the original clips are in place, carefully prise them apart with a scriber or small screwdriver before pulling the pipes off. They can be reused with care and need a small pair of pliers (or better, the correct special pliers) to clip them up again.
  2. Undo the two 10mm nuts holding the reservoir and lift it out full of the old LHM. This is the easiest way. Release the spring clip across the top, lift out the filter head and place it in a clean receptacle to drain. I use the bottom of a 4 pint milk carton.
  3. Pour the old LHM into a suitabel container ready for disposal at your local tip. Use the waste engine oil facility.
  4. Clean out the LHM reservoir with clean, lint-free rag (blue paper is ideal) and them remove the two filters from the filter head and clean them in petrol. One is clipped on and is secured with a small "S" shaped wire clip and the other is secured with a bayonet fitting and is long and conical. It is easily missed as it lives up inside the suction tube. Wash them with a paint brush in petrol until they are spotless and leave to dry. The filter mesh is delicate so don't be rough with them.
  5. Reassemble the LHM reservoir and refit to the car. The clips that hold the pipes on to the reservoir can be reused with care or "Jubilee" clips can be used instead.
  6. Refill the reservoir with either LHM or Hydraflush. It'll take at least 4 litres.
  7. Close the pressure regulator bleed valve, start up and set the suspension on high, top up the reservoir and do thorough citarobics. Recheck the level.

Bleeding Brakes and knuckles...

With the front wheels off and the car up on stands, locate the bleed nipples. Pop off their protective rubber caps, clean up around them, spray them with Plus Gas and carefully crack then open with your 8mm ring spanner. Nip them up again. leave the spanner on and place the plastic pipe on the nipple and lead it into a jamjar. Start up and apply the brakes by jamming the end broom between the seat and brake pedal (now you see what the broom is for!). Open the bleed nipple and watch LHM run ito the jamjar. When free of air and all the old, dirty fluid is flushed through, nip up the nipple, slip off the pipe, replace the rubber cap and repeat on the other side. Top up the LHM reservoir with the equivilent amount you bled out.

The rear brakes MUST be bled with the suspension set on high and with weight on the back wheels. On cars with alloy wheels it is sometimes possible (depending on the wheels) to get at the nipples without removing the wheels but on most, the wheels have to come off and that makes a problem of how to keep a load on the back wheels. Best is to do one wheel at a time and keep the other on the ground and thus loaded.

Do the same as for the front but do bleed at least 250mL of fluid out of each nipple as the rear brake lines are very long. Keep an eye on the LHM level and top up as necessary. You will know the level is low as the STOP light will come on. Don't let the level drop too low.

Job done. If you have used Hydraflush, leave it in for al least 15 miles and them change for proper LHM it by repeating all the above procedure, including cleaning the filters again.

tst page

Recheck levels and do citarobics again. And again

Job's a good 'un

Please add to this as I'm sure to have forgotten something!

The following tables list the various changes / fixes / improvements made to each specific Diagbox software release

This information has been collated from available sources on the net into a consistent format. There may be some versions where a change log could not be sourced.

Diagbox Version 6.39 / 7.06

Update 6.39 / 7.06 includes new features, in particular:

» Provision of the side panel (see instructions)

» BiMarques  : double RRDI

» Reworking of Update CPA Fault Reading: to make navigation between the Expert mode and the guided mode more fluid, the fault reading on the "Expert" tab will no longer entail restarting of the session in guided mode. The information message "The content of the global test has been modified, the session must be restarted..." no longer appears. NB: The refreshing of the 'Diagnostics' tab after restarting the TG on the 'Expert' tab is normal and necessary.

» Addition of Romanian among the tool's choice of languages

» Associated contexts help EDC17C10  : displaying of text specific to the associated variables of a given ECU

» Development ADEE DIAG-COM-12-004 Ind E: The ADEE has two functions, local processing of the data memorised by the Spy software and storing of the unprocessed data on a remote PSA server. The local processing permits use of this memorised data and displaying for the technician of one or two possible causes of discharging of the battery. Above all, it make it possible to determine certain causes of discharging of the battery which cannot be reproduced in the workshop or which are no longer present during the diagnostics.

» Addition of the RT6 Telematic ECU for the Peugeot 807 and Citroën C8 vehicles

» Addition of the RD5 ECU for the Citroën DS5, DS4, C4 II vehicles

Update 6.39 / 7.06 includes improvements and corrections, in particular:

Diagbox Symptom Corrected


Vehicle Affected

Correction of crashing of DiagBox in Russian



Corrections aimed at limiting DiagBox crashes particularly on the Physical Measurements tab

Correction of the anomaly concerning the ohmmeter zero reset – ("offset adjustment" button). It is no longer necessary to leave the ohmmeter screen to reactivate the measurement


Correction of the anomaly concerning the "Print" button on the download result page .Printing of the download results page is now possible once more

Correction of the parts menu for the replacement of an ECU


DS5 Hybrid4

Correction of the configuration of the duration before servicing


DS5 Hybrid4

Correction of the fault clearing not possible problem



Correction of the manual configuration



Correction of the absence of the parts menu for part replacement



Correction of the suspension programming not possible problem


Jumper III

Correction of the patterns configuration problem



Correction of the manual configuration



Correction of the communication problem