xantia heater illumination

vinny180 · Post by **vinny180** » 20 Oct 2004, 03:14

When driving at night with lights on my heater controls are backlit except the temp bar and fan speed. This is very annoying,[:(!] should they be lit if so is it difficult to get in at bulbs[?]

Post by **martyhopkirk** » 20 Oct 2004, 03:20

Yes they should be backlit.
Dont ask me why but Citroen Dash bulbs last mere nano seconds, whereas all other makes seem to last forever. Both my citroens have missing dash lights.
Have a search on the forum as there was a thread not so long ago about changing the clock back light, and that gave info on how to remove the dash to do ALL the bulbs (change em all in one go, if you can see if you can get white LED bulbs instead).

Richard Gallagher · Post by **Richard Gallagher** » 20 Oct 2004, 03:25

You need to remove the radio surround by way of removing the two screws located at the bottom of the panel from where the ashtray pulls out. The heater panel then unscrews, you will also need to remove the radio in order to gain access to remove the top cover on the heater panel. Its then a case of jiggling the bulb holder out.
The bulbs are not the usual capless type, they come complete with the black plastic bulb holder.

Stempy · Post by **Stempy** » 20 Oct 2004, 03:41

If you go the LED route you can get them here..... http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/

rossnunn · Post by **rossnunn** » 20 Oct 2004, 04:08

I did a LED conversion on my dads ZX, I used whitle leds and soldered them in place. I think I probably go for green LEDs if I had to do it again, as the white ones made the dial print more of a 'minty' green.
All my ZX bulbs, touch wood, *touches head* are working, but when the time comes, and it will, it'll be LEDs over bulbs

nick · Post by **nick** » 20 Oct 2004, 16:14

Does the brightness rheostat still work with LED's instead of bulbs?

uhn113x · Post by **uhn113x** » 20 Oct 2004, 18:41

It will, but not as well, as the LEDs only use a fraction of the current that bulbs do. You may need an extra bit of electronics to make it work properly.
WCN Supplies are selling green 5mm LEDs 25 for 50p at the moment!!
Details on http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/counties/ ... onics.html

zorgman · Post by **zorgman** » 21 Oct 2004, 02:45

you cant just plonk led's into place where the bulbs are as led'd work on approx 1.2-3v depending on the type so u need a resistor in series with the led to drop the voltage. this can be done at the lights feed going to the dash on one of the multi connectors

PowerLee · Post by **PowerLee** » 21 Oct 2004, 02:49

Hi
Yes you can plonk LEDs in, But only if you use the automotive 12 volt ones.
Maplins do them.

uhn113x · Post by **uhn113x** » 21 Oct 2004, 13:46

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by zorgman

You cant just plonk LEDs into place where the bulbs are as LEDs work on approx 1.2-3v depending on the type so you need a resistor in series with the led to drop the voltage. This can be done at the lights feed going to the dash on one of the multi connectors
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Quite right, but it is the current, not the voltage, that is important. What you should not do is connect LEDs in parallel like the bulbs are connected, with just a single resistor as the forward voltage drops do vary, and you risk overrunning one or more of them, shortening their life.
Assuming your LEDs take 20ma (0.02 amp) and drop 2.5v, then, taking your max battery voltage as 14.5, you need to drop 12 volts at 20ma = 600 ohms - nearest preferred value 560 ohms - resistor in series with each LED. You can also connect, say, four LEDs in series, with a lower value resistor.
Lee
There are indeed '12 volt' LEDs available which have an inbuilt resistor, but not all of these will stand much more than 12 volts, and they are more expensive.

PowerLee · Post by **PowerLee** » 22 Oct 2004, 01:41

12 Volt LEDs from Maplins are less then 30 pence each.

uhn113x · Post by **uhn113x** » 22 Oct 2004, 12:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by PowerLee

12 Volt LEDs from Maplins are less then 30 pence each.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
S'right, but have you looked at the ratings? Vf max = 14 volts. Assuming that your alternator is reasonably within tolerance, the output voltage is normally above this, and can rise to about 14.8. Ok, it will not blow the LEDs instantly, but will shorten their life, and one of the reasons for converting from bulbs is that you will never need to replace them.

paranoid · Post by **paranoid** » 22 Oct 2004, 13:09

I know its a bit off topic but I have always found the Gsf dash bulbs to work longer than the hal%$ds rubbish, In fact I have'nt had to touch them after replacing, Other rubbish ones in same unit work sometimes not others then give up the ghost after 6 months, First thought it was contact problem but after refixing with Gsf units its fine.

G4EIY · Post by **G4EIY** » 22 Oct 2004, 14:35

Hi,
One other thing to check when fitting led's, is the polarity.
I have fitted white/blue superbrights to my BX (using 560ohm resistors),to the internal, rear number plate and side repeaters, the centre connection on the repeaters was negative.
This had me foxed for a while, as I had assumed all the centre lamp connections would be positive.
Cheers

uhn113x · Post by **uhn113x** » 22 Oct 2004, 18:25

Yep - very true, Brian - they do not like reverse polarity one bit. As a matter of interest, do you know what the output of the LEDs you used (in lux or mcd) was, and what wattage of bulb you considered them to be equal to?