i have air in the sytem cuz it smokes up in the morning. its not the g glow plugs.
if i prime the fuel system, i have no problems
someone said to open the screw on the inlet pipe, but i cant find it
can someone show mwe a pic or explain to me
i have the bosch pump
air in fuel system
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JohnD
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You have air leaking into the fuel line. Use of the hand primer to start confirms the diagnosis. Opening the bleed valve won't help. What you need to do is trace the leak. If your fuel filter has a plastic top, the seal could be faulty. If you haven't changed the filter, do it at the same time as checking the joint. Also inspect and replace any copper washers at banjo joints.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JohnD</i>
You have air leaking into the fuel line. Use of the hand primer to start confirms the diagnosis. Opening the bleed valve won't help. What you need to do is trace the leak. If your fuel filter has a plastic top, the seal could be faulty. If you haven't changed the filter, do it at the same time as checking the joint. Also inspect and replace any copper washers at banjo joints.
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ive used the hand primer and it starts first time with no smoke, no its defo air
ive changed he fuel filter and its seems tight, where is the bleed screw by the way, i have a bosch pump
You have air leaking into the fuel line. Use of the hand primer to start confirms the diagnosis. Opening the bleed valve won't help. What you need to do is trace the leak. If your fuel filter has a plastic top, the seal could be faulty. If you haven't changed the filter, do it at the same time as checking the joint. Also inspect and replace any copper washers at banjo joints.
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ive used the hand primer and it starts first time with no smoke, no its defo air
ive changed he fuel filter and its seems tight, where is the bleed screw by the way, i have a bosch pump
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Dave Burns
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There wont be a bleed screw, there hasn't been one for some years now, nor is there any need for one as bleeding is continuous via the pump outlet restricter, the fact that you have primed it with the hand pump and got it to start means that the air was purged from the pump anyway, so a bleed nipple wouldn't help much.
If this is a recuring problem then as JohnD has said you deffinately have air getting in, this often enters the system at the injector leak off pipes, removal of the intercooler if its a turbo version will be required to gain access the them.
Some models had an automatic bleed valve between the supply pipe and the return pipe, they don't often go wrong but when they do its best to get rid of them alltogether and pipe it straight through.
If you are relying on it in the moring don't go fannying about with it now, at least you know it will start after priming, if you go meddeling without knowing what you are doing you may well have a non starter.
Dave
If this is a recuring problem then as JohnD has said you deffinately have air getting in, this often enters the system at the injector leak off pipes, removal of the intercooler if its a turbo version will be required to gain access the them.
Some models had an automatic bleed valve between the supply pipe and the return pipe, they don't often go wrong but when they do its best to get rid of them alltogether and pipe it straight through.
If you are relying on it in the moring don't go fannying about with it now, at least you know it will start after priming, if you go meddeling without knowing what you are doing you may well have a non starter.
Dave
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Burns</i>
There wont be a bleed screw, there hasn't been one for some years now, nor is there any need for one as bleeding is continuous via the pump outlet restricter, the fact that you have primed it with the hand pump and got it to start means that the air was purged from the pump anyway, so a bleed nipple wouldn't help much.
If this is a recuring problem then as JohnD has said you deffinately have air getting in, this often enters the system at the injector leak off pipes, removal of the intercooler if its a turbo version will be required to gain access the them.
Some models had an automatic bleed valve between the supply pipe and the return pipe, they don't often go wrong but when they do its best to get rid of them alltogether and pipe it straight through.
If you are relying on it in the moring don't go fannying about with it now, at least you know it will start after priming, if you go meddeling without knowing what you are doing you may well have a non starter.
Dave
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i have replaced one section of the injector leak off pipes. shall i just replace them all??
also where can i get more piping from?
There wont be a bleed screw, there hasn't been one for some years now, nor is there any need for one as bleeding is continuous via the pump outlet restricter, the fact that you have primed it with the hand pump and got it to start means that the air was purged from the pump anyway, so a bleed nipple wouldn't help much.
If this is a recuring problem then as JohnD has said you deffinately have air getting in, this often enters the system at the injector leak off pipes, removal of the intercooler if its a turbo version will be required to gain access the them.
Some models had an automatic bleed valve between the supply pipe and the return pipe, they don't often go wrong but when they do its best to get rid of them alltogether and pipe it straight through.
If you are relying on it in the moring don't go fannying about with it now, at least you know it will start after priming, if you go meddeling without knowing what you are doing you may well have a non starter.
Dave
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i have replaced one section of the injector leak off pipes. shall i just replace them all??
also where can i get more piping from?
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rich_spens
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it says in the haynes manual, page 4D-3 and i quote
1. to prime the system, loosen the bleed screw located in the injection pump inlet pipe union bolt
2. pump the priming pump until fuel free from air bubbles emerges from the bleed screw. retighte the bleed screw
NOW WHERE IS THIS BLEED SCREW. I HAVE THE BOSCH PUMP AND I CAN NOT FIND IT.
does it look like a normal screw or what???
1. to prime the system, loosen the bleed screw located in the injection pump inlet pipe union bolt
2. pump the priming pump until fuel free from air bubbles emerges from the bleed screw. retighte the bleed screw
NOW WHERE IS THIS BLEED SCREW. I HAVE THE BOSCH PUMP AND I CAN NOT FIND IT.
does it look like a normal screw or what???
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RichardW
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Just becuase Haynes says it's there doesn't mean it is! Haynes was written with one particular car, and probably the manufacturer's service manuals at the time. Manufacturers keep thinkering with things, so they may not always be fitted. As Dave has pointed out, later cars are 'self bleeding' - just pump the primer till it goes hard, then start the engine and run for a while to bleed the air out.
If you think / know you are getting air in then you have to find the source - no easy task - just bleeding it out will not cure the problem.
If you think / know you are getting air in then you have to find the source - no easy task - just bleeding it out will not cure the problem.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JohnD</i>
Banjo unions are a favourite for air leaks. Get a couple of new copper washers for it.
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if i open the banjo's, will the fuel drip ??
do i have the stop fuel somehow first?
where can i get copper rings?
Banjo unions are a favourite for air leaks. Get a couple of new copper washers for it.
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if i open the banjo's, will the fuel drip ??
do i have the stop fuel somehow first?
where can i get copper rings?
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if i open the banjo's, will the fuel drip ??
do i have the stop fuel somehow first?
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Stick some rag around the union and pump to catch any drips. I disconnected the fuel line from the fuel filter and wedged a piece of dowl in the end of the pipe to keep any fuel in the line, but I don't think there was a great deal.
Careful when tightening the union bolt back up, they shear easily (as I found out) and will cost you 77p and a day without a car while Peugeot order them in [:)]
if i open the banjo's, will the fuel drip ??
do i have the stop fuel somehow first?
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Stick some rag around the union and pump to catch any drips. I disconnected the fuel line from the fuel filter and wedged a piece of dowl in the end of the pipe to keep any fuel in the line, but I don't think there was a great deal.
Careful when tightening the union bolt back up, they shear easily (as I found out) and will cost you 77p and a day without a car while Peugeot order them in [:)]