2.2HDI Cambelt Replacement advice

[MattBLancs]

Impact driver for crankshaft pulley bolt:

I wouldn't. But I tend generally to err toward the side of over cautious (e.g. I'm pretty damn sure I'm never build up the confidence for trying the "breaker bar + quick blast of the starter motor" technique for undoing said bolt either!)


I'm sure I've read of the thread lock stuff riding up the threads, binding and this being sufficient for the crank pulley bolt to shear off! I think I backed off (after initial quarter turn with breaker bar) mine with the torque wrench - set high, maybe 150 Nm. That way if it did begin to bind,the torque wrench would "click' and id know to calm it down a bit / go back the other way.

Certainly, the bolt was pretty stiff ALL the way out, remember it being a fair work out winding out with said torque wrench.

I'll check the guide helpfully linked by Marc above as I'm sure I read this loctite binding problem and guess it's in there.

[MattBLancs]

It's not in that guide, had a quick dig but I can't lay my hands on a reference for the snapping bolt precautions!

Realise also my earlier 2.2 is the 175 (bi-turbo) version, yours is the later version so may be other differences to be aware of.

[MattBLancs]

PS not mentioned before, but if that 2013 belt is original it's definitely due on time (10 years I think) rather than mileage.

[Argos69]

So anyway,
Just when you pluck up the courage to take on a fairly complicated job (it is to me at least) requiring special tools and a lot of luck.....
You then read somewhere that, as you need to drain the coolant to do this job, there is a procedure requiring more special tools than we have at the local hospital to put it back in.

Citroen, why on earth can't you design a coolant system that can be emptied and subsequently topped up by a normal person with a socket set and a couple of cans of coolant? Vacuum pumps? Special attachments? I'm starting to think Mr Frankenstein had an easier task than changing this flipping timing belt

Basically, to do a "regular maintenance" task, replacing a "consumable item", you need to either acquire enough special tools to start your own Citroen service centre or simply sign your house over to a main dealer to do it for you.

I love the car, but I loath Citroen! Still haven't forgiven them for the Certificate of Conformity charge of 300 euros when I was importing the car into France. It got lost in the post they said, then wouldn't send another copy unless I paid again! I had to involve whoever is "God" in Citroen to sort it out and he refunded the money, but when you think BMW will give you a Certificate for nothing (!), come on Citroen. If the money hadn't been refunded I was going to visit this guy and insert one of his substandard steering racks where the sun don't shine.

Anyway, time for my medication.....

[GiveMeABreak]

It's not in that guide, had a quick dig but I can't lay my hands on a reference for the snapping bolt precautions!

Realise also my earlier 2.2 is the 175 (bi-turbo) version, yours is the later version so may be other differences to be aware of.

Yes, Matt, the 2.2 DW12BTED4 (175) version is a different beast with a different procedure

[PaulC5]

To drain the coolant put a large bowl/bucket below the water pump and as the pump is removed the coolant runs out, no need to try undoing any hoses. Might be a bit messy but is effective. For filling the coolant on our C5 I made a special tool rather than buying one and it is a length of about 300 mm of 30 mm (?) sink drain pipe with its pipe seal and a coolant tank cap with the middle cut out to pass the pipe through so it can be screwed on to the tank with its end below the low level mark.

[Argos69]

Cheers for that Paul.... Very innovative!

I was going to ask Marc if the procedure on this site "C5 X7 DW10BTED4 Draining / Refilling Coolant" was the same for my job.

Sometimes seems like the Evil Geniuses at Citroen laughed their socks off after they'd finished designing the coolant topup procedure!

[PaulC5]

What their tool / my pipe does is raise the coolant level above the engine giving a bit of pressure to push the air out of the bleed screws.

[leithant]

I think unscrewing the reservoir and raising it high enough while filling does the job???

[MattBLancs]

I think unscrewing the reservoir and raising it high enough while filling does the job???

Not sure if there is enough "free length" on the reservoir pipework to do it that way? I might be getting mixed up with another car though! (406 maybe?)

[leithant]

Seems to be on mine - dw12TED4. If not I also have one of those funnels with adaptors which I picked up from China for $20.

[Ceenine]

To drain the coolant put a large bowl/bucket below the water pump and as the pump is removed the coolant runs out, no need to try undoing any hoses. Might be a bit messy but is effective. For filling the coolant on our C5 I made a special tool rather than buying one and it is a length of about 300 mm of 30 mm (?) sink drain pipe with its pipe seal and a coolant tank cap with the middle cut out to pass the pipe through so it can be screwed on to the tank with its end below the low level mark.

I competed this job a month or two ago so all fresh in my compromised memory. To drain the coolant, the less messy method is to drain the pump using an Allen key inserted in a plug towards the bottom of the pump. it is far easier to catch a narrow stream of coolant than a Niagara Falls type avalanche.

Have fun locating the locating and locking the hole in the flywheel. it is there, but may take you a couple of days to find it. The Service Citroen diagram is helpful but takes some interpretation.

My nervous system has finally returned to normal having completed the job for three months now (and the car still goes!)
Don