I am looking to buy my first car. I would like to get a 405 Diesel Estate, preferably for not too much money as I am a student. What mileage should I be looking at as a cutoff point and also what tends to be the main cause of these cars dying?
Cheers
First Car
Moderator: RichardW
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PowerLee
- Posts: 1260
- Joined: 01 May 2004, 19:49
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: Current - Slightly modified 2016 Pug 308 Puretech 130 Allure
Past:
2003 - 206 GLX TU3JP & 206 SE ET3JP4
1995 - 405 Executive XU10J2
1996 - 406 GLX XU10J4R
1994 - 405 GTX XU10J2 - x 1
Do you really need an estate?? These cost more to buy then the saloons, & the saloon boot is BIG enough ( But the seats dont fold down )
Try if you can to get an August 1994 onwards car, Drivers airbag, side impact bars, better alarm ( If its still working )
Like most cars, if its been looked after they can rack up very high millages.
Check for any rust, there SHOULDNT be any, All 405s where galvinised.
The electrics can play up, Things not working, Things working when they shouldnt, Lights coming on the dashboard, Nothing a day, some basic tools & a can of wd40 cant sort out.
Check there are no odd sounds from the suspension, worn bushes.
Electric sunroofs do get stuck through lack of use ( Unless its a 1995 car where the 306s sunroof assy was fitted )
Clock bulbs look a sod to change on series 2 cars but they are easy to do when you throw the Haynes book in the bin [;)]
Head gaskets can go if the cooling system isnt looked after.
The speedo needle will jump a little, Live with it or fit a new cable ( If you dont get mad easy [;)] Sod to change!!! )
The tailgate trim has a habit of falling of estates too, A tube of gripfill or similar sticks it back ok.
Go for a series 2, Black dash & darkened rear lights, The middle of K reg was the change over time, series 1 dashboards creak too much in the sun, It will drive you bonkers!
anything else just ask.
Try if you can to get an August 1994 onwards car, Drivers airbag, side impact bars, better alarm ( If its still working )
Like most cars, if its been looked after they can rack up very high millages.
Check for any rust, there SHOULDNT be any, All 405s where galvinised.
The electrics can play up, Things not working, Things working when they shouldnt, Lights coming on the dashboard, Nothing a day, some basic tools & a can of wd40 cant sort out.
Check there are no odd sounds from the suspension, worn bushes.
Electric sunroofs do get stuck through lack of use ( Unless its a 1995 car where the 306s sunroof assy was fitted )
Clock bulbs look a sod to change on series 2 cars but they are easy to do when you throw the Haynes book in the bin [;)]
Head gaskets can go if the cooling system isnt looked after.
The speedo needle will jump a little, Live with it or fit a new cable ( If you dont get mad easy [;)] Sod to change!!! )
The tailgate trim has a habit of falling of estates too, A tube of gripfill or similar sticks it back ok.
Go for a series 2, Black dash & darkened rear lights, The middle of K reg was the change over time, series 1 dashboards creak too much in the sun, It will drive you bonkers!
anything else just ask.
-
PowerLee
- Posts: 1260
- Joined: 01 May 2004, 19:49
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: Current - Slightly modified 2016 Pug 308 Puretech 130 Allure
Past:
2003 - 206 GLX TU3JP & 206 SE ET3JP4
1995 - 405 Executive XU10J2
1996 - 406 GLX XU10J4R
1994 - 405 GTX XU10J2 - x 1
It all depends on how the car has been looked after during its lifetime.
Millage doesnt matter, Its how its been maintained & serviced during its life.
A car with a full service history & a folder full of bills & printouts point to a carefull owner who looks after there car.
Avoid anything thats been a taxi, They never sell them untill they are about to die!
Try & get a mechanic you trust to inspect it before purchase too.
A 405 is a very good car if looked after, They do need a bit of TLC now & again, All would you needs is some basic tools & the help of this forum.
Millage doesnt matter, Its how its been maintained & serviced during its life.
A car with a full service history & a folder full of bills & printouts point to a carefull owner who looks after there car.
Avoid anything thats been a taxi, They never sell them untill they are about to die!
Try & get a mechanic you trust to inspect it before purchase too.
A 405 is a very good car if looked after, They do need a bit of TLC now & again, All would you needs is some basic tools & the help of this forum.
-
PowerLee
- Posts: 1260
- Joined: 01 May 2004, 19:49
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: Current - Slightly modified 2016 Pug 308 Puretech 130 Allure
Past:
2003 - 206 GLX TU3JP & 206 SE ET3JP4
1995 - 405 Executive XU10J2
1996 - 406 GLX XU10J4R
1994 - 405 GTX XU10J2 - x 1
Hi
Good choice of motor.
Make sure it has an drivers airbag fitted.
Open the bonnet, Passenger side under & to the left of the glovebox is the release & the safety catch is in between the top slat of the grill next to the drivers headlamp & is a little black catch.
Look behind the drivers headlamp, any ABS fitted? Thumbs up if yes but not to worry if it hasnt.
Lock the car with the remote key, wait 30 seconds & then unlock using just the key in the door lock & see if the alarm makes a noise.
Check the aircons working too, set it on the coldest setting with the windows shut on the test drive & see if you get a chill.
Make sure all the electrics work.
Check the spare wheel is still under the boot & not pinched.
MAke sure you get both remote keys, The locking wheel nut key & the radio caode for it & make sure you know the code for the Keypad imobiliser too.
Other then the normal general car check its should be allright.
Good choice of motor.
Make sure it has an drivers airbag fitted.
Open the bonnet, Passenger side under & to the left of the glovebox is the release & the safety catch is in between the top slat of the grill next to the drivers headlamp & is a little black catch.
Look behind the drivers headlamp, any ABS fitted? Thumbs up if yes but not to worry if it hasnt.
Lock the car with the remote key, wait 30 seconds & then unlock using just the key in the door lock & see if the alarm makes a noise.
Check the aircons working too, set it on the coldest setting with the windows shut on the test drive & see if you get a chill.
Make sure all the electrics work.
Check the spare wheel is still under the boot & not pinched.
MAke sure you get both remote keys, The locking wheel nut key & the radio caode for it & make sure you know the code for the Keypad imobiliser too.
Other then the normal general car check its should be allright.
-
fastandfurryous
- Posts: 1388
- Joined: 07 Jul 2004, 17:57
- Location: On the road, travelling at high speed. Meep Meep.
- My Cars:
- x 4
Hi.
Definitely a good choice of motah. I've had 4 405 diesel estates now, and am looking at a fifth.
From my experience:
ABS is an expensive thing to go wrong on these cars. If you know how to cadence brake, then forget about ABS... I also don't like it as I hate relying on electronic systems. (this includes the airbag as far as I'm concerned)
The mileage is irrelevant (I've had one with over 330k miles on the clock!) but what matters is the cooling system. Make sure it's good and full with a decent glycol mixture, and has no oily scum around the filler cap. Oil and/or low coolant indicates head gasket on it's way out. Not expensive if you do it yourself, but ££££ if you enlist a garage.
Check the last time the Cambelt was changed. 50k miles is about the longest you would ever want to make one go for, and if it snaps, you're into a rebuild/new head/scrap the car
Check that the fuel pre-heater on the back of the block has been bypassed (easy job if it hasn't) as it *will* go porus at some unknown time in the future, and cause endless starting and surging problems.
The most important thing is the rear suspension. Stand a good distance behind the car and see if the wheels look upright. If the suspension is worn, they will appear to lean in to the car at the top. The left-side wheel always goes first. It can be fixed with a bodge, but will usually need a new rear axle. The car will usually still pass an MOT even in this state, but it looks appaling, and doesn't do your tyre life any good.
otherwise, buy it. Marvel at just how much you can get in the back, and be amazed at how well an estate car can handle.
David.
Definitely a good choice of motah. I've had 4 405 diesel estates now, and am looking at a fifth.
From my experience:
ABS is an expensive thing to go wrong on these cars. If you know how to cadence brake, then forget about ABS... I also don't like it as I hate relying on electronic systems. (this includes the airbag as far as I'm concerned)
The mileage is irrelevant (I've had one with over 330k miles on the clock!) but what matters is the cooling system. Make sure it's good and full with a decent glycol mixture, and has no oily scum around the filler cap. Oil and/or low coolant indicates head gasket on it's way out. Not expensive if you do it yourself, but ££££ if you enlist a garage.
Check the last time the Cambelt was changed. 50k miles is about the longest you would ever want to make one go for, and if it snaps, you're into a rebuild/new head/scrap the car
Check that the fuel pre-heater on the back of the block has been bypassed (easy job if it hasn't) as it *will* go porus at some unknown time in the future, and cause endless starting and surging problems.
The most important thing is the rear suspension. Stand a good distance behind the car and see if the wheels look upright. If the suspension is worn, they will appear to lean in to the car at the top. The left-side wheel always goes first. It can be fixed with a bodge, but will usually need a new rear axle. The car will usually still pass an MOT even in this state, but it looks appaling, and doesn't do your tyre life any good.
otherwise, buy it. Marvel at just how much you can get in the back, and be amazed at how well an estate car can handle.
David.