I'm going to look at the above in a garage, it's got 82000 on the clock.
Please remind me what I'm looking out for?[;)]
At present I've got the BX TZD Turbo saloon so what surprises await?
Thanks[:)]
Xantia 1.9 TD VSX Estate 1995
Moderator: RichardW
Bernie, the obvious things such as oil leaks of all types and I guess you will know if the diesel is OK from your BX. However 82k is not a lot for a 95 model so check the turbo comes in clean and the car should pull steadily from around 1800rpm right through to the red line. Expect lots of smoke the first time or two which should then clear away.
The estates suffered from the drivers door lower hinge breaking away from the inner reinforcing panel. Quite repairable but check for neat and easy closing and that the roof line and door line fit nicely.
There is sometimes little to see from a broken hinge because it is the weld to the inner panel behind the outer skin that has failed.
The only other less obvious items are to check all the electrical components and aircon. When you switch on the air con the engine idle rpm should rise by around 150 rpm and then slowly settle back after it is switched off. If the engine idle rpm is running at around 900 with the air con OFF then the vacuum switch control may be faulty or the cold start cable stuck.
Check the electric windows for easy silent operation and the mirrors for movement.
Others will add a few more points for certain. Good luck, Robin
The estates suffered from the drivers door lower hinge breaking away from the inner reinforcing panel. Quite repairable but check for neat and easy closing and that the roof line and door line fit nicely.
There is sometimes little to see from a broken hinge because it is the weld to the inner panel behind the outer skin that has failed.
The only other less obvious items are to check all the electrical components and aircon. When you switch on the air con the engine idle rpm should rise by around 150 rpm and then slowly settle back after it is switched off. If the engine idle rpm is running at around 900 with the air con OFF then the vacuum switch control may be faulty or the cold start cable stuck.
Check the electric windows for easy silent operation and the mirrors for movement.
Others will add a few more points for certain. Good luck, Robin
Thanks for the replies[:)]
Just had a go.[:D]
So quiet[:)]
So smooth[:)]
BUT[}:)]
A/C works but the fan slider switch sometimes does not work.
Both front and rear height correctors are sticking.
Switch for adjusting the suspension mode does not do anything, light does not come on when headlights are on.
I reckon the h/c's may be easy but the suspension mode switch????
What do you reckon?
Just had a go.[:D]
So quiet[:)]
So smooth[:)]
BUT[}:)]
A/C works but the fan slider switch sometimes does not work.
Both front and rear height correctors are sticking.
Switch for adjusting the suspension mode does not do anything, light does not come on when headlights are on.
I reckon the h/c's may be easy but the suspension mode switch????
What do you reckon?
-
RichardW
- Forum Treasurer
- Posts: 10897
- Joined: 07 Aug 2002, 17:12
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: MK2 '17 C4GP 1.6 BlueHDi 120
'13 3008 1.6 HDi GripControl - x 1003
Bernie,
The hydractive is obviously working, 'cos if it wasn't it would have resorted to full time hard mode (unless some bodger has fitted normal spheres to mask its non-operation), and shaken your teeth out [:D]. I think if you switch off the engine, get out and shut the door it defaults to hard mode after about 30s - you should be able to feel the suspension goes stiffer after this time. There was much doom mongering about the long term reliablity of the hydractive suspension when it came out, but problems seem to be few and far between - except failure of some internal O-rings in the hydractive blocks which causes the car to lose height almost immediately it is switched off.
Dunno about the fan slider on A/C cars - I think it may be controlled by the A/C unit.
How did the clutch feel - if it is at all heavy, or comes in high up, haggle hard on the price as replacement is imminent (in the next 30 - 40k miles anyway [;)]) and it's dear.
Check the passenger side carpet and under the dashboard for any signs that the heater matrix is leaking.
Check if the cambelt has been done - due at 72k. Might be worthy of a second change at that age anyway.
VSX should have ABS, so check it's working - EBS ECUs on these are known to be, er, flaky shall we say!
If the rear height corrector has not broken its link, it can probably be unseized with WD-40, but replacement is not that bad / expensive even if not (mine wouldn't come up or down at the rear when I got it, but WD-40 sorted it, and spray grease has kept it that way). Another bargaining point.
If you're serious, it might be worth jacking it up and taking a rear wheel off to see the state of the corrosion between the arm and the brake caliper - it makes the caliper twist, and in extreme cases (oooh, like mine that is awaiting some time and good weather to fix!) the caliper actually rubs on the disk. Another bargaining point.
Have a good look at the bottom of the radiator - most will have had a rad replacement by now (I did mine last summer), but at only 82k this one might not have. Another barganining point.
The TD's can be heavy on front pads / discs, so get a gander at the state of them if you can.
Blimey, he should be paying you to take it away by now! Try not to look TOO smug [:o)]
Anyway, I'd have thought under a grand was a fair starting point for this motor, dropping with the above points...
The hydractive is obviously working, 'cos if it wasn't it would have resorted to full time hard mode (unless some bodger has fitted normal spheres to mask its non-operation), and shaken your teeth out [:D]. I think if you switch off the engine, get out and shut the door it defaults to hard mode after about 30s - you should be able to feel the suspension goes stiffer after this time. There was much doom mongering about the long term reliablity of the hydractive suspension when it came out, but problems seem to be few and far between - except failure of some internal O-rings in the hydractive blocks which causes the car to lose height almost immediately it is switched off.
Dunno about the fan slider on A/C cars - I think it may be controlled by the A/C unit.
How did the clutch feel - if it is at all heavy, or comes in high up, haggle hard on the price as replacement is imminent (in the next 30 - 40k miles anyway [;)]) and it's dear.
Check the passenger side carpet and under the dashboard for any signs that the heater matrix is leaking.
Check if the cambelt has been done - due at 72k. Might be worthy of a second change at that age anyway.
VSX should have ABS, so check it's working - EBS ECUs on these are known to be, er, flaky shall we say!
If the rear height corrector has not broken its link, it can probably be unseized with WD-40, but replacement is not that bad / expensive even if not (mine wouldn't come up or down at the rear when I got it, but WD-40 sorted it, and spray grease has kept it that way). Another bargaining point.
If you're serious, it might be worth jacking it up and taking a rear wheel off to see the state of the corrosion between the arm and the brake caliper - it makes the caliper twist, and in extreme cases (oooh, like mine that is awaiting some time and good weather to fix!) the caliper actually rubs on the disk. Another bargaining point.
Have a good look at the bottom of the radiator - most will have had a rad replacement by now (I did mine last summer), but at only 82k this one might not have. Another barganining point.
The TD's can be heavy on front pads / discs, so get a gander at the state of them if you can.
Blimey, he should be paying you to take it away by now! Try not to look TOO smug [:o)]
Anyway, I'd have thought under a grand was a fair starting point for this motor, dropping with the above points...
Thanks Richard.
It's had recent front spheres, I presume you're talking about bodgeing replacing other front ones?
Clutch felt ok like my BX only a bit too near the floor release.
It's had a new matrix.
Cambelt done at 72k service (according to the records).
Rad looks original.
Brakes work smooth and progressive.
So you say the HA 2 suspension is probably ok even though the switch makes no difference?
As to price I've knocked him down £300 to £1400.
It SEEMS to be a nice and clean car (all door hinges look 100%)
Performance wise it's only a little down on my BX
It's had recent front spheres, I presume you're talking about bodgeing replacing other front ones?
Clutch felt ok like my BX only a bit too near the floor release.
It's had a new matrix.
Cambelt done at 72k service (according to the records).
Rad looks original.
Brakes work smooth and progressive.
So you say the HA 2 suspension is probably ok even though the switch makes no difference?
As to price I've knocked him down £300 to £1400.
It SEEMS to be a nice and clean car (all door hinges look 100%)
Performance wise it's only a little down on my BX
Did anyone mention water ingress via tail-gate ?
Price sounds okay to me given that it's a diesel and an estate but I bet you could not sell it for anyhing like that amount if you tried.
If the performance is only a little down on the tzd then either the tzd was under performing or the Xantia has been tweeked.
Mark
Price sounds okay to me given that it's a diesel and an estate but I bet you could not sell it for anyhing like that amount if you tried.
If the performance is only a little down on the tzd then either the tzd was under performing or the Xantia has been tweeked.
Mark
According to this all four spheres should be replaced together, this could cause the problem RichardW?
http://www.westroen-spheres.co.uk/xantia.htm
http://www.westroen-spheres.co.uk/xantia.htm
-
RichardW
- Forum Treasurer
- Posts: 10897
- Joined: 07 Aug 2002, 17:12
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: MK2 '17 C4GP 1.6 BlueHDi 120
'13 3008 1.6 HDi GripControl - x 1003
Bernie,
The failure state of the hydractive is hard mode - which isolates the comfort spheres. If there was a problem with the hydractive, it could be disguised by fitting spheres from a normal car, which would give a normal ride. You could try disconnecting the computer to see what effect on the ride (it's in the box next to the coolant header tank) - it should go into permanent hard mode.
The failure state of the hydractive is hard mode - which isolates the comfort spheres. If there was a problem with the hydractive, it could be disguised by fitting spheres from a normal car, which would give a normal ride. You could try disconnecting the computer to see what effect on the ride (it's in the box next to the coolant header tank) - it should go into permanent hard mode.
Thats the one, sorry about that but at least we are both happy with our purchases. The car has been reliable, comfy and economical.
There are a few niggles which I'm working on. The one you picked up on was the a/c blower not working. That was a case of the ign switch not handling the load as often talked about on this forum. Thanks to the help here I fixed that for a few pence and a couple of hours of fighting to get the steering cowl off.
I took the car for full asking price £1695 as I was desperate. (I had been looking for a while and had come down from the Midlands to look at it.) It looked in good shape and I dont regret it. It's a lot of car for the money.
I've read many posts on this forum and found it most usefull and friendly. You will see my name appear more often as I work on some of the quirkies that need attention.
Regards and enjoy the week end.
There are a few niggles which I'm working on. The one you picked up on was the a/c blower not working. That was a case of the ign switch not handling the load as often talked about on this forum. Thanks to the help here I fixed that for a few pence and a couple of hours of fighting to get the steering cowl off.
I took the car for full asking price £1695 as I was desperate. (I had been looking for a while and had come down from the Midlands to look at it.) It looked in good shape and I dont regret it. It's a lot of car for the money.
I've read many posts on this forum and found it most usefull and friendly. You will see my name appear more often as I work on some of the quirkies that need attention.
Regards and enjoy the week end.