Xantia HDi power gremlins

[Edhertz]

Thanks for replies. Pipework including intercooler pressure tested to approx 10 psi and no leaks. With regard to cleaning the intercooler and pipework internals. I didn’t find any loose oil in the intercooler or the pipework other than some misting up of the surfaces but nothing of concern and quite remarkable given the age of the seals. It’s looking more like a waistgate issue now even though the actuator lever appears to move smoothly over it's range. Next step is to get in there and move the lever to check it's not sticking before full range.
Cheers Alan

[CitroJim]

The wastegate is quite a crude device Alan, if memory serves it's like a little cast-iron hinged trapdoor so after a while there's plenty of opportunity for small leaks to develop.

[Edhertz]

I’ve been under and checked the operation of the waistgate mechanism and can report that it moves smoothly with no signs of hanging up or sticking over whole range. Looks like a process of elimination now so blanking off the EGR could be my next move even though it appears to be functioning normally. Recommend an easy way to get at the EGR? Cheers Alan

[CitroJim]

Recommend an easy way to get at the EGR? Cheers Alan

I don't think there is Alan, it's been a while now but it should be fairly straightforward to get at one of its ports to temporarily blank it off?

[Edhertz]

It’s been a while but I’m back on the case with some good news. I blanked off the EGR as suggested and its done the trick as its a lot quicker now… not a job I want everyday! It took so long because I managed to break a connection on the fuel filter housing whilst laying on top of the engine and fun and games sourcing a replacement. Although its got it’s vitality back it’s still throwing a light when I put my foot down in a higher gear. You can see that I’m getting a fair amount of boost (1835mb) so things are not that bad provided I don’t go mad. Like to get it sorted before start of towing season.

Cheers, Alan

[CitroJim]

That's a result Alan!

[Edhertz]

Thanks Jim. Not sure where we go from here. The turbo is the only mechanical thing left and appears to be o.k. since the actuator appears to be functioning normally.
Cheers, Alan

[Edhertz]

Success! Goes like it’s on illegal substances now with turbo pressure clocked at 2353mb.What a difference! From my last post you can see turbo was up to 1835mb which was liveable with but could throw a light. I thought I’d have a go at changing the 4 month old new branded turbo solenoid valve for one of my used spares and voila! How many times does that happen? To sum up: the main cause of the power loss was a dodgy EGR and new turbo solenoid valve. Not bad considering it’s in it’s 25th year and only done 239156 miles. Next job: replace strut tops,
Cheers Alan

[CitroJim]

Superb! That's excellent news Alan

[Rhothgar]

Success! Goes like it’s on illegal substances now with turbo pressure clocked at 2353mb.What a difference! From my last post you can see turbo was up to 1835mb which was liveable with but could throw a light. I thought I’d have a go at changing the 4 month old new branded turbo solenoid valve for one of my used spares and voila! How many times does that happen? To sum up: the main cause of the power loss was a dodgy EGR and new turbo solenoid valve. Not bad considering it’s in it’s 25th year and only done 239156 miles. Next job: replace strut tops,
Cheers Alan

Only just seen this as mine is spewing out black smoke on acceleration but I can only really see it when it's under load at 3000-4000rpm. The fuel economy is horrendous at 43mpg if I'm really milling about - that's measured over a full tank. Even been down to 38mpg on a motorway run.

I want to remove my EGR and give it a good clean but it's a horrible job. Looks like the best way to get at it is via the offside wheel arch on mine setup and the studs look very rusty and are likely going to simply snap when I try to undo the nuts so I'll have to use the tighten-loosen-tighten-loosen a bit more technique. I fitted a new solenoid valve recently and had I have seen this earlier I'd have said, "just because a part is new is no guarantee it is not faulty!".

So... my question is what make did you buy originally, where from and what did you buy second time around? Also which make of EGR did you go with please, Alan?

I guess you never saw my plea for the strut top adapter dimensions?

[wheeler]

What is your measured air flow at idle with the engine warmed up?

Disconnect the vac pipe from the EGR whilst engine running & watch the air flow, does it change when the vaccum pipe is removed?

[Rhothgar]

My Lexia has blown so I could only say what I found before.

Using an ELM scanner on my iPhone it measures 12-13g per second which seems abnormally high. Obviously, the Lexia is supposed to measure something like 230-260mg/cop whatever CPP is? I’ve always assumed cpp to be stroke?

Mine was producing something lime 588mg from recollection. I’ll have a photo somewhere is when Imve measured it in the past. That was with a new but crap Intermotor MAF

[Rhothgar]

Here’s a link to a video I took last year.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/08cflqs ... 4N_4K2JuNg

[Rhothgar]

And here is another:-

https://share.icloud.com/photos/065XHUJ ... 0Gang_BVlA

[wheeler]

If its reading 500 mg/cp at idle assuming the MAF is reading correctly this suggests that the EGR valve is closed anyway. This engine will not detect or throw up any warnings if the EGR valve is stuck shut.