To keep or not to keep...

bigpete · Post by **bigpete** » 10 Jun 2004, 03:03

I'll definately be getting a raditor when I head over to GSF in Leeds on Saturday to buy the parts. A good point Phil about the water pump so I might even do that as well. Anyone know where you can get the tool to set TDC?
Pete

James.UK · Post by **James.UK** » 10 Jun 2004, 03:25

Hmm.. I do know of an excellant lil place in York. They fitted my Volcane interior into my Avantage for me. That was all seats, door trims, steering wheel, and even put a 2nd hand drivers door surround on as mine was very worn. All for £50 [:D] !!! Oh and they had to remove my original trim, seats etc before they could fit the other one, I gave them the old trim, (A) because it was no use to me, (B) I had no means of getting it home anyway. [:I]
The owners name is John. His phone number is 01904 651900. Its worth working out exactly what you need to have done, and then ask him for a quote.. Quote will be free so you may as well ask.. [:D]

jonathan_dyane · Post by **jonathan_dyane** » 10 Jun 2004, 03:39

Hi Pete,
Don't waste your money on TDC tools. All you need are 4 M8 bolts, or 3 and some rod of a similar diameter. The rod goes into a hole behind the starter (total bastard to get in, I use a M8 bolt with the threads files off, with wire attatched under the head. With a lot of manouvering it will go in, and should be easier on the ZX, no hydraulic pipes!)
1) Enter the bolt/rod into the hole beneath starter. Turn engine over with big socket on crank pulley, whilst putting pressure on the wire you have attatched to the bolt/rod. You will feel the tool enter a hole in the flywheel, and the crank will lock.
2) Screw one M8 bolt into the cam pulley, and the other two into the injector pump. The holes provided are easy to spot.
3) Loosen the two tensioner holding fittings (I think one bolt and one nut), and after forcing back tensioner retighten to hold the tensioner out of the way. This is a bit of a bastard, because access is bad and the tensioner has a hell of a spring on it. However there is a square hole in the tensioner, which allows you to force it back with a socket ratchet, I think 1/4 drive but I could be wrong.
4) Slip belt off cam pulley and you're ready for action!
Oh, before you do all this, slacken the crank pulley bolt with a screwdriver in the ring gear...
Goodluck!

Post by **philhoward** » 10 Jun 2004, 04:11

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Oh, before you do all this, slacken the crank pulley bolt with a screwdriver in the ring gear...
Goodluck!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Shame it's easier to do this with a warm engine...

Post by **cheesesliceking** » 10 Jun 2004, 04:15

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by bigpete

I'll definately be getting a raditor when I head over to GSF in Leeds on Saturday to buy the parts. A good point Phil about the water pump so I might even do that as well. Anyone know where you can get the tool to set TDC?
Pete
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
When you go to GSF @ Leeds take a look out for a Sweet looking old school Beetle parked aorund back, wsa there the other month when i went it.. looks frikin cool[8D]

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 11 Jun 2004, 00:42

Ity is possible to change the belt without removing the bottom pulley if you remove the plastic guards surrounding it, saves time and hassle. the size of the square thing to back off the tensioner is three quarters, a ratchet and short extension plugs straight in. lots of luck
Stewart

John F · Post by **John F** » 11 Jun 2004, 03:19

Grand Pierre, Could I suggest a torque wrench might be a good idea for the really crucial bolts & nuts?