Alan, yup the very same, I've seen stuff for Toyota, Honda, Audi, Jaguar, Mazda, Land Rover(?!!) but as far as I remember nothing for the PSA group
Pete
________
LANDLORDS INSURANCE ADVICE
drat! and doubledrat!
Moderator: RichardW
-
- Posts: 360
- Joined: 05 Jan 2002, 01:10
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- Contact:
Last edited by ghostrider on 22 Feb 2011, 05:49, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 1801
- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
-
- Posts: 1801
- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
-
- Posts: 1801
- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
Not there yet, thank you Alan. The Pug item you advised has the same fittings and I'm not above scheming up some brackets. Jon has given me some numbers to try and I haven't given up yet, despite the evap being a tight fit in the heater housing. I checked around the tx valve to find the pipes around it very slightly greasy, but no actual evidence of a weep from the valve itself. I'll have to remove it very carefully (!) in order to flush the old oil out of the evap once I get it out. Time for patience I think. You learn it from fixing Citroens.
Once again, Many thanks for all your help, encouragement and good advice, without which I'd be in the dark.
Once again, Many thanks for all your help, encouragement and good advice, without which I'd be in the dark.
-
- Posts: 1801
- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
Tom,
I don't think that will cause you a problem but this is where we get into a "grey area" due to each Country having different legislation. Some insist on dual pressure switches (for over pressure and under) and some call for one whilst others call for the other. The local car air/con man should be able to oblige with that info.
Alan S
I don't think that will cause you a problem but this is where we get into a "grey area" due to each Country having different legislation. Some insist on dual pressure switches (for over pressure and under) and some call for one whilst others call for the other. The local car air/con man should be able to oblige with that info.
Alan S
-
- Posts: 1801
- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
Following a weekend of sump swapping and rear arm rebuilding, here are some thoughts for those considering the conversion.
The compressor is a 2 man job to get out. One above and one below then it is easy.
The engine to sump spacer needs the rungs cutting out to fit on the bottom of a diesel. Mounting holes are not present for the spacer so this has to be slid into place on the sealant film before tightening. The locating quill that holds block sump and spacer in place is recovered from the Petrol engine.
Fitting the Alloy bits. You have to get the accumulator sphere off both engines
before starting.
Our glitch for the mission: Didn't know the flywheel cover was different. The sphere has to come off for this to be changed. You'll need it off to get all the sump bolts back in, too.
So now I have: evaporator/ TX valve, recuirculators and all electrics in place.
Sump ready to accept a compressor.
A compressor that will get reconditioned this week.
A set of pipes.
I still need to order the drier and condenser and compatible O rings but I'll do the compressor first. I'm considering buying a new set of pipes, too, which may be unneccessary but after the huge amount of work so far, I have come to the conclusion that if a job's worth doing, its worth doing ONCE!
Thanks as usual to DLM (Who now has a slightly lighter TZI!)
The compressor is a 2 man job to get out. One above and one below then it is easy.
The engine to sump spacer needs the rungs cutting out to fit on the bottom of a diesel. Mounting holes are not present for the spacer so this has to be slid into place on the sealant film before tightening. The locating quill that holds block sump and spacer in place is recovered from the Petrol engine.
Fitting the Alloy bits. You have to get the accumulator sphere off both engines
before starting.
Our glitch for the mission: Didn't know the flywheel cover was different. The sphere has to come off for this to be changed. You'll need it off to get all the sump bolts back in, too.
So now I have: evaporator/ TX valve, recuirculators and all electrics in place.
Sump ready to accept a compressor.
A compressor that will get reconditioned this week.
A set of pipes.
I still need to order the drier and condenser and compatible O rings but I'll do the compressor first. I'm considering buying a new set of pipes, too, which may be unneccessary but after the huge amount of work so far, I have come to the conclusion that if a job's worth doing, its worth doing ONCE!
Thanks as usual to DLM (Who now has a slightly lighter TZI!)
-
- Posts: 1801
- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
Well, the drier is in and after much research, I'm going with Alans's suggestion. The condenser is ordered. GSF Heathrow had one left for the Pug 405 late model. It is substantially bigger than the BX unit and the plumbing will need to be modified to fit. I'll find a good alli welder and see if it can be cut and shut to suit my pipes although if the job looks as though fitting will be tricky, I'll get onto a pipe specialist and have new ones made up. The condenser is likely to cost about £115 which is a lot better than what I have been quoted! Next Sunday I'll finish plundering DLM's car for the final piece of the wiring loom and I hope to have the system ready to vac down and charge next week.(This will correspond with the end of Summer of course. Expect blizzards!)