Injectors misbehaving but trying to understand the numbers

[MattBLancs]

Maybe look on Autodoc as they normally have a multitude of brands (but I'd check carefully it really IS compatible - i.e. right length, rather than mis categorised)

[darbuck]

I don't like them either, but I've put it on my "not worth worrying about" list. The DV6 has a plastic one - my wife's 206 HDi came with the end missing (wasn't down the dipstick tube so who knows where that bit actually went!?) but it's (cheap) replacement lasted ok.

Probably floating around the sump somewhere. Maybe your right if it breaks I can always replace it.

[darbuck]

I discovered I have misplaced one of the bleed caps off the coolant system at the back of the engine, I'll have to try and get to a breakers. I have tested all 9 of the injectors I have and 2 are iffy but working so I am just going to put 4 of the best in and cross my fingers. I need to do some diagnostic work before I start it but I am quietly confident I will get it running tomorrow all going well.

[MattBLancs]

who knows where that bit actually went!?

Probably floating around the sump somewhere. Maybe your right if it breaks I can always replace it.

Ah, should have told you the rest of the story - had the sump off too (at a later date) - wasn't in there either!!

I presume it had snapped off whilst not in the engine, and whoever was there simply shrugged and put 3/4 of a dipstick back again!


Good luck for tomorrow, hope you have some success.

[darbuck]

thanks Matt I should be good I think. They all hold pressure without leaking above 2000 psi so I think that it is safe to say they are not leaking.

[darbuck]

She won't start, she is starting with easy start though and runs very briefly. She is not throwing any codes apart from the usual glow plug fault. I think it might be airlocks

[MattBLancs]

Based on my experience, try and give it a pull start - I tried all sorts and ultimately "spinning it faster than the starter does" made the difference.

[darbuck]

I got her started but she's very smokey and I think there's oil leaking from the exhaust side of the turbo . I also have smoke coming from behind the engine It looks like it's coming from the pre-cat but the clamps are correctly fitted and tightened. I'm at the end of my tether with this. I'm going to do some gardening. I need to do something else and .

[darbuck]

I ran a diagnostic test and she is throwing up silly numbers for injectors. -147 on 1 and 2 +143on 3 and 67 and moving on number 4. The first three seem to be closed by the ECU to compensate for for cylinder 3 injector. I think I need to get them tested. If this is correct I have one good injector out of 9.

[darbuck]

If you look back at the first thread you can see that this is the same number for 3 when I first started down this road

[Rhothgar]

Hi Darren,

Long time no post (for me). I should probably read through the whole topic to see what's gone on since I last gave input.

But reading the last couple of pages and in particular the last couple of posts. If you have now got it running, do you have a leak-off kit to check state of the injectors. I forget the best protocol but if you plumb it in and run the engine for 3 minutes at idle, you'll get an idea of how worn the injectors are as a starter for 10.

Maybe worth doing a video to show just how smokey it is so we can get a better idea.

[darbuck]

I've been thinking about what I found yesterday and I think it is diesel coming out of the turbo not oil. I think it's pumping diesel into cylinder 3 constantly. The clouds of white smoke are so bad I can't run diagnostics properly because the fumes are so bad I couldn't breathe properly . They were burning my eyes as well. I'm chesty today after it.

There has been a couple of injectors in that port and they have all read the same value 143.14. does this indicate I have a bad driver

[Rhothgar]

Hi Lads thanks.There's no oil the far side a little bit of axial play is all which is normally fine but does drag on the housing a little bit. It has a little bit of wear on the housing it's hard to see in the photos and does not seem to spin really freely which is another reason I decided to go the route of a new turbo. I think consensus is turf the filter screen in the bin. It all points to the turbo because it smokes heavily on high RPM's and it was blowing oil out the inlet pipe somehow, I can't understand how the physics of it allows it to do so, if anything you would imagine it blow it out the other end but apparently it's a sign of bad shaft seal. My concern is now that it could be the PCV system is malfunctioning, but I won't know until I have put everything back together again and ruled out the turbo. The new one seems to well remanufactured. As always any advice welcome. Thanks for the moral support Kenny.

Have you checked the EGR valve to ensure it is seating properly and not jammed open? My RHZ has a lot of oil in the intake pipe but goes like a train. I do have a new gasket for stripping the inlet manifold off when I get time (had the gasket probably a year now...).

With a vacuum pump, draw a complete vacuum on the EGR with the pipe of the electro solenoid first and see if it holds pressure. Then remove the rubber pipe from the pipe and connect your vac pump direct to EGR and pull a vacuum. Does it hold pressure? Great if so. Release pressure and you should hear a metallic click as the EGR valve closes shut. If not, then it is likely stuck open.

I'll keep reading forward. Maybe you have already done this.

[Rhothgar]

I've been thinking about what I found yesterday and I think it is diesel coming out of the turbo not oil. I think it's pumping diesel into cylinder 3 constantly. The clouds of white smoke are so bad I can't run diagnostics properly because the fumes are so bad I couldn't breathe properly . They were burning my eyes as well. I'm chesty today after it.

There has been a couple of injectors in that port and they have all read the same value 143.14. does this indicate I have a bad driver

I don't know about RHR engine which I think you have referred to yours as in the past but 229 bar fuel pressure seems a little low. My RHZ runs at 306 bar but unfortunately I don't currently have a Lexia to use so cannot go and plug it in.

1) Have you cleared all fault codes from the ECU and done a re-read? If not, please do so and provide an up-to-date read.

I read somewhere that you have no fault codes.

If that is the case, the official diagnostics manual for a Sept 1998 on RHZ gives this information:-

Fault Code 14: Large amounts of Blue and White Smoke (I assume this is on an Elit probably)

Check to be made. (I have italicised and highlighted the official text - anything after is my commenting)/

1. Unsuitable fuel (probably safe to say you have fresh fuel in?) Diesels can suffer from microbial growths in the tank. Have you check the in-tank pump assuming you have one?
2. Oil level Can we assume you've not gone overboard in your excitement to be near the finishing line?
3. Air in the fuel supply system This would surely lead to hesitant running?
4. "EGR" valve function (jammed open) See my previous post from today on how to check this.
5. Air inlet manifold and air filter blocked Presumably this is not the issue?
6. Oil vapour recycling circuit. Not sure where this is as I've never given it any thought on mine.
7. Turbocharger lubrication (oil being consumed by turbocharger bearing) Is there a running in procedure for the turbo? A specific oil perhaps?
8. Fuel pressure sensor function Has this been checked? If not, do so. However, this would 'probably' throw a P0190 fault code but don't assume. It would be in limp home mode if code exists but if no code exists then perhaps it hasn't quite given up the ghost just yet
9. Inlet manifold pressure sensor Likely a Denso sensor near to the right hand side of the radiator at the front on a bracket.
10. Engine Wear No comment.
11. Coolant thermistor function Have you actually ran the car up to temperature?
12. Valves not sealed Let's not go there.
13. Compression rate Falls in line with 10 and 12 above. You're already considering this. I'd do the free checks first.
14. Mechanical fault : fuel high pressure regulator - high pressure fuel pump. I believe I gave advice on this last year when the engine wasn't starting.

Dare I say it but perhaps it is time to take it for a tentative drive around the block to actually see how it feels and whether that will give us more clues.

I assume you have put a new timing belt on and it is timed and tensioned correctly? If your covers are off and you're unsure pop a video up of the belt tension. You may laugh but this is easily done. I changed the timing belt on mine recently and actually turned the timing belt tensioner in the wrong direction!!! I drove home from my mate's and looked at it the next morning. I was extremely lucky that it didn't slip a few teeth and destroy the engine. One very lucky boy that day!

I only mention this because I don't want you going for a tentative around the block.

I appreciate you are nervous but know that some fault codes may not appear until the engine is under load. For example, mine was running like a slug last year after about 20 miles on the motorway and it threw either a P0243 or P0246 code to do with turbo pressure regulation.

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this already but it might be worth swapping your EGR and Turbo solenoid valves around to see if it runs any differently.

This last hurdle could be challenging one but with the collective advice of the forum I hope you get it up and running to your satisfaction very soon.

In the meantime, it's back to Page 14 for me...

[Rhothgar]

Hi Kenny scratch that I done my test wrong. That cylinder must be in its intake stroke. I will retest later when the rain stops. The cylinder being tested must be at top dead centre for the test to work. I'll have to get a coat hanger and use it to determine tdc for each of the cylinders. I'll post up later.

Maybe commenting way too late on this but was going to say that you need to ensure piston is at TDC and more importantly BOTH valves are closed. I know you already realised this because I 'loved' your comment. Now this is where I forget but to get to TDC, simply get crankshaft to pinning position as you would for a timing belt change and then rotate 180 degrees but whether the valves are both closed, I wouldn't know. I think in this case I would take rocker cover off to verify. You've probably already done this all.

Anyway, I'll keep reading.