you cant test glow plug with a test bulb as you have to test the resistivity between plug and block. I've done this a huge number of times, i only listed that they appeared to be okay by sight.
not sure about taking out the cylinder, or undoing the feedpipe, but i see what your getting at, cracking the injector of glowplug could be a good idea!
gonna go hit on it and will let you know how i get on!
BX/Xantia 1.9TD Starting problems
Moderator: RichardW
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oilyspanner
- Posts: 1246
- Joined: 26 Oct 2003, 16:08
- Location: United Kingdom
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all glow plugs tested to less than an ohm, all very good, but started rough.
I really dont think this is down to the glow plugs at all. With dead glow plugs it takes longer to run over and belches out white, or at least with every car thats had duff plugs on it thats whats happened. This turns over instantly, really easy (good compression, starter and battery) but then chug chug chugs and spits clouds out. Have taken in for a little drive and it sounds a little more graunchy, but the pick up is impressive, turbo seems rather happy (or maybe thats me
)
Have changed the leak of pipes so wonder what happens when she starts up tomorrow. Its rather low on fuel (i think, dodgy sender) so maybe this has something to do with it. Is there anyway i can get to a fuel station and fill her up without tax etc (she's on a SORN at the moment!), legally that is, im sure a dawn raid on the 24hr shell isnt too big a problem.
Temp is staying just over half way between 60 and 90 with fan on full tilt (no temp guage so safer than sorry) even iddling at high revs it seems pretty happy. Bliping her right up the rev range when warm and there isnt anything obvious coming out the back.
Im half thinking to take her for MOT tomorrow and see what happens, but there are a few bits to check before then!
thoughts?
Will ask a local gargage if they can do a comp test tomorrow, theyre usually pretty good for lickle things!
I really dont think this is down to the glow plugs at all. With dead glow plugs it takes longer to run over and belches out white, or at least with every car thats had duff plugs on it thats whats happened. This turns over instantly, really easy (good compression, starter and battery) but then chug chug chugs and spits clouds out. Have taken in for a little drive and it sounds a little more graunchy, but the pick up is impressive, turbo seems rather happy (or maybe thats me
)Have changed the leak of pipes so wonder what happens when she starts up tomorrow. Its rather low on fuel (i think, dodgy sender) so maybe this has something to do with it. Is there anyway i can get to a fuel station and fill her up without tax etc (she's on a SORN at the moment!), legally that is, im sure a dawn raid on the 24hr shell isnt too big a problem.
Temp is staying just over half way between 60 and 90 with fan on full tilt (no temp guage so safer than sorry) even iddling at high revs it seems pretty happy. Bliping her right up the rev range when warm and there isnt anything obvious coming out the back.
Im half thinking to take her for MOT tomorrow and see what happens, but there are a few bits to check before then!
thoughts?
Will ask a local gargage if they can do a comp test tomorrow, theyre usually pretty good for lickle things!
Vanny -
Do I read you correct - the engine runs sweet as a nut when hot ?
If that is confirmed, then you defo have a coldstart problem *only*.
- which means you should suspect the coldstart device AND the idle setting.
The coldstart device cable should pull the pump timing arm fully aginst it's stop (towards cable). The COLD idle revs MUST be just above 1000rpm - some 1050-1150 - then drop when engine gets hot, as the coldstart cable releases the arm - at LEAST 6mm on the cable.
Hot idle should be approx 850rpm, and the idle should only be adjusted with hot engine.
Do I read you correct - the engine runs sweet as a nut when hot ?
If that is confirmed, then you defo have a coldstart problem *only*.
- which means you should suspect the coldstart device AND the idle setting.
The coldstart device cable should pull the pump timing arm fully aginst it's stop (towards cable). The COLD idle revs MUST be just above 1000rpm - some 1050-1150 - then drop when engine gets hot, as the coldstart cable releases the arm - at LEAST 6mm on the cable.
Hot idle should be approx 850rpm, and the idle should only be adjusted with hot engine.
Vanny
I must take marginal issue with Anders here. Our ZX (63,000 miles and running and starting beautifully (and untouched by me!) idles hot at 850 rpm and speeds up to about 950 only on cold start. I mention this as I don't know if the timing type of cold start can be adjusted for speed. The earlier rotodiesel as fitted to no-turbo BX's simply adjusts the idle speed by pulling on a lever, not the timing via an electrical device, may be the same for Bosch.
You mention valve seals, I don't think your engine has any - using bronze valve guides.
there have been cases where a valve is tight, not properly sealed when cold, but ok when hot as aluminium expands more than the steel valve and the clearance appears as the head itself expands.
jeremy
I must take marginal issue with Anders here. Our ZX (63,000 miles and running and starting beautifully (and untouched by me!) idles hot at 850 rpm and speeds up to about 950 only on cold start. I mention this as I don't know if the timing type of cold start can be adjusted for speed. The earlier rotodiesel as fitted to no-turbo BX's simply adjusts the idle speed by pulling on a lever, not the timing via an electrical device, may be the same for Bosch.
You mention valve seals, I don't think your engine has any - using bronze valve guides.
there have been cases where a valve is tight, not properly sealed when cold, but ok when hot as aluminium expands more than the steel valve and the clearance appears as the head itself expands.
jeremy
I'll check the actaul postioning, but the cold start does seem to be working okay. I thought the engine was gonna stall the other day because it got warm and the revs started to drop! first time id noticed it do this,then i realised what it was. And it is a mechanical device with Wax Stat. I did have the connection cable off, i just wonder if thats the key to it all?
The engine DOES have valve stem seals at the top of the valve guides, they are green!
I dont think this is so much as a problem with something leaking when trying to start, but more something wrong when starting because something has leaked, though saying that it makes no difference if the car is left up a hill, down a hill or on the flat.
The engine DOES have valve stem seals at the top of the valve guides, they are green!
I dont think this is so much as a problem with something leaking when trying to start, but more something wrong when starting because something has leaked, though saying that it makes no difference if the car is left up a hill, down a hill or on the flat.
One method of checking for leaks on the supply side is to replace the last feed hose to the pump with clear plastic and look for bubbles. I suppose you could do the same with the return pipe from the injectors as well.
Sorry about the valve seals point - of course you've had this engine apart. Must be a later one!!
jeremy
Sorry about the valve seals point - of course you've had this engine apart. Must be a later one!!
jeremy
The coldstart idle can not be adjusted - other by (over-) fiddling with the hot idle (throttle arm stop) setting.
The waxstat pulls the coldstart timing arm HARD aginst the endstop, no matter summer/winter weather or climate, when engine is cold. Thus you should have the approx 1100rpm on coldstarts, as pr Haynes PSA diesel manual.
Only when the timing arm is released (hot engine) at least 6mm (inner cable protrusion seen), the pump is down to normal hot engine timing. Commonly a failing waxstat would give too high hot idle rpm's, as the waxstat will not (or only partly) release cable/arm then.
The waxstat cable is dead easy to adjust/check, with COLD engine : simply release cable from timing arm, then pull arm against stop (towards cable) and lock cable clamp. Check the arm is truly against the stop.
The waxstat pulls the coldstart timing arm HARD aginst the endstop, no matter summer/winter weather or climate, when engine is cold. Thus you should have the approx 1100rpm on coldstarts, as pr Haynes PSA diesel manual.
Only when the timing arm is released (hot engine) at least 6mm (inner cable protrusion seen), the pump is down to normal hot engine timing. Commonly a failing waxstat would give too high hot idle rpm's, as the waxstat will not (or only partly) release cable/arm then.
The waxstat cable is dead easy to adjust/check, with COLD engine : simply release cable from timing arm, then pull arm against stop (towards cable) and lock cable clamp. Check the arm is truly against the stop.
hmmm new development!
It passed its emmisions tests, actually it walked it right in, all very good. BUT came to start her today and flattened the battery with the engine turning and turning and not catching. This was after 3 full pre heats!
Jumped out (while it was 'charging' off the AX), openned the water bleed valve, let a bit of diesel run out, pumped the bulb three/four times, jumped in and it started straight away without any problems. Me thinks its giving a big hint!
thoughts?
It passed its emmisions tests, actually it walked it right in, all very good. BUT came to start her today and flattened the battery with the engine turning and turning and not catching. This was after 3 full pre heats!
Jumped out (while it was 'charging' off the AX), openned the water bleed valve, let a bit of diesel run out, pumped the bulb three/four times, jumped in and it started straight away without any problems. Me thinks its giving a big hint!
thoughts?