Old school diesel question

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RichardW
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by RichardW »

There's another one, I think you can just see it on the second pic at the end of the RH arrow, this is the one you need the crescent wrench for...
aerodynamica
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by aerodynamica »

RichardW wrote:
04 Apr 2022, 20:20
There's another one, I think you can just see it on the second pic at the end of the RH arrow, this is the one you need the crescent wrench for...
:-k hmmm, crescent wrench.....
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myglaren
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by myglaren »

aerodynamica wrote:
04 Apr 2022, 20:24
RichardW wrote:
04 Apr 2022, 20:20
There's another one, I think you can just see it on the second pic at the end of the RH arrow, this is the one you need the crescent wrench for...
:-k hmmm, crescent wrench.....
Flag_of_the_Ottoman_Empire_(1844–1922).svg.png
Flag_of_the_Ottoman_Empire_(1844–1922).svg.png (4.4 KiB) Viewed 144 times
Fits those star-shaped nuts perfectly.
aerodynamica
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by aerodynamica »

myglaren wrote:
04 Apr 2022, 20:32
aerodynamica wrote:
04 Apr 2022, 20:24
RichardW wrote:
04 Apr 2022, 20:20
There's another one, I think you can just see it on the second pic at the end of the RH arrow, this is the one you need the crescent wrench for...
:-k hmmm, crescent wrench.....
Image

Fits those star-shaped nuts perfectly.
:lol:
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by RichardW »

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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by Stewart(oily) »

I have refitted an overhauled pump back onto the engine simply by aligning the dirty marks, and it ran fine, I fitted a replacement (scrapyard pump) to an engine and it ran awful, i tried moving the pump a bit a couple of times but it was a massive pain in the arse and amounted to pure guesswork, I did learn that a tiny movement makes a huge difference, I would suggest getting hold of the gear and doing it correctly, it is not like tweaking a distrbutor a bit until it sounds sweet. and yes, I used one of those "access spanners" to get at the special bolt :wink:
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by aerodynamica »

Ace, well I have similar spanners on order now. Thinking about it, I can't believe I've had the diesel timing out all this time. I was aware the dimension would alter marginally but didn't think it would have such an effect. I mean only a few thou was skimmed off - really just to clean the face. I'll admit I didn't measure the piston tdc protrusion for gasket selection because my understanding was there no longer is a choice of gaskets and that only the thickest one was now available. In fact it might be that the dimension is oversized instead. That will have lowered the compressions a bit too. I think the retightening of the head bolts may have compressed the gasket further as well but it's likely still a bit over. If so the diesel timing might be a bit advanced instead of retarded. Anyway, it remains to be seen!
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by Stewart(oily) »

Just re read this thread, when replacing the head gasket you only need to remove the HP fuel pipes to the injectors, head gasket replacement should not affect fuel pump timing unless you have stretchy conrods :) did you remove the pump to do the gasket ?
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moizeau
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by moizeau »

Stewart(oily) wrote:
07 Apr 2022, 13:02
Just re read this thread, when replacing the head gasket you only need to remove the HP fuel pipes to the injectors, head gasket replacement should not affect fuel pump timing unless you have stretchy conrods :) did you remove the pump to do the gasket ?
And me and the second photo on page 1 shows the head off and the pump in place. If it wasn't moved, leave it alone I'd say. The first photo's green arrow reminded me of something though........is the wax stat set properly? This can be tested very easily with your right boot lifting the revs to about 1100. My BX had a dead one for the last 2 years of it's life.

Other than that, been as you've got the spanners, you can have a play with the timing if you wish. I'd just run it. At 132K it's about run in, I put 400K on a N/A one and it still ran like clockwork. As OldPug mentioned, they do clatter when cold, not an issue.
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by aerodynamica »

Hm in not sure about the wax stat. Certainly as it heats up the idle gradually quietens until its 'normal' sounding..

A light skin but a thicker gasket would increase the distance between the cam pulley and the crank pully by a tiny amount. And the distance between cam and diesel pump pulleys by an even smaller amount. But is this enough to nudge the timing a bit... well I'll make some micro adjustments when the spanners show up and so what happens.
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moizeau
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by moizeau »

What does it tick over at cold? The wax stat raises the revs to about 1100 (I think) then it should go back to normal when warm. It it's ticking over cold a little slow that will make it rattle more.
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by aerodynamica »

Hmm, now I think of it the cold tick over is under 1000 and more like 850 rpm
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by aerodynamica »

Ok! Well I moved the timing by about 1mm retarded and tick over seems to have increased rpm when cold. Does seem a bit smoother.
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by aerodynamica »

Thank you Richard for the spanner suggestion - ideal
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Re: Old school diesel question

Post by Stewart(oily) »

On a related not whilst rummaging in the garage I found a brand new wax stat fast idle unit, still in its packaging, heaven knows how long its been there, I will add it to my Xantia parts for sale thread.