I was thinking the same thing. lhm is a oil and a good lubricant so I should be able to use it to rebuild the calliper, without the need of particular rebuild greases. As long as the rubber and the contract surfaces aren't dry as soon as you pressurise the breaks it will all be surrounded by lhm and be protected.Hell Razor5543 wrote: ↑14 Sep 2021, 07:06 LHM is also quite 'slippery', so it is a lubricant as well. For example, if you were to clean the system with hydraflush it is recommended to use it for no more than 3,000 miles, as it does not lubricate the system well. LHM should be replaced every 36,000 miles (if my memory is correct).
xantia rescue
Moderator: RichardW
- Scottculli
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Re: xantia rescue
- Scottculli
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Re: xantia rescue
As long as the lithium is good to use then ill go with that im going to be using it on the slide pins as well in that case and knock two things at oncewhite exec wrote: ↑14 Sep 2021, 08:23 Lithium grease will be ok for handbrake mechanism lubrication.
Use copper grease on rear and edges of the pads, to prevent squeal/chatter.
For hydraulic system cleaning, Total Hydraurincage (aka Hydraflush) is no longer available, unfortunately.
Recommendation is now just to use an LHM fluid change as the cleaning measure.
(H'cage was essentially LHM plus gentle cleaning solvents.)
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Re: xantia rescue
Sounds good.
Copper grease is fine as anti-squeal and as non-seize for threads, but isn't as good as normal grease as a lubricant.
Copper grease is fine as anti-squeal and as non-seize for threads, but isn't as good as normal grease as a lubricant.
Chris
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Re: xantia rescue
I wanted to save the picture till the end so you could see it completed but im having a problem the dust boot for the piston seems to be to big to fit into the cylinder,
i was wondering is there a special way to fit the dust boot. i thought i should just ask to try all avenues but if it is wrong im just gonna email the supplier. Any suggestions would be much appreciated
Thanks Scott.
i was wondering is there a special way to fit the dust boot. i thought i should just ask to try all avenues but if it is wrong im just gonna email the supplier. Any suggestions would be much appreciated
Thanks Scott.
- Scottculli
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Re: xantia rescue
Hey everyone i think ive found out how to fit the dust boot over the caliper, the rim isn’t meant to go into the cylinder just sit outside , but in the meantime ive been looking at doing the timing belt on the Es9j4 and found somone whos breaking a peoguot 406 with the es9j4s engine and heard that the newer engine timing belt tensioner is best but it’s actually interchangeable between the two engines, and i was wondering if it would be a good idea or is it even possible to retro fit it to my engine?
Thanks scott.
Thanks scott.
- xantia_v6
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Re: xantia rescue
I have always fitted (new) later style tensioners when replacing early belts (I think the change-over was in December 1999). The later style is much easier to adjust accurately, the early style requires special tools to adjust.
I thought that by now, all cars should have had the later style tensioner fitted, as the cars are more than 20 years old and the belt should be changed at least every 10 years.
The later style tensioner is a different shape, and the water pump was also changed to accommodate it. You can re-use an early type water pump by cutting off the offending lug with a hacksaw.
I thought that by now, all cars should have had the later style tensioner fitted, as the cars are more than 20 years old and the belt should be changed at least every 10 years.
The later style tensioner is a different shape, and the water pump was also changed to accommodate it. You can re-use an early type water pump by cutting off the offending lug with a hacksaw.
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Re: xantia rescue
Ah that is a good point about the age and the likelihood of it being changed to the new tensioner, i just had it on my mind to change the belt and the opitunity to buy one of the es9j4s.it never click in my head it might have a new one all ready on it, ill look tomorrow after work and try and see which style i have. Is it easy to see the tensioner or do i need to remove some things first?xantia_v6 wrote: ↑30 Sep 2021, 19:35 I have always fitted (new) later style tensioners when replacing early belts (I think the change-over was in December 1999). The later style is much easier to adjust accurately, the early style requires special tools to adjust.
I thought that by now, all cars should have had the later style tensioner fitted, as the cars are more than 20 years old and the belt should be changed at least every 10 years.
The later style tensioner is a different shape, and the water pump was also changed to accommodate it. You can re-use an early type water pump by cutting off the offending lug with a hacksaw.
- xantia_v6
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Re: xantia rescue
You need to remove the rear upper belt cover. The tensioner is behind the lower cover, but you should be able to see the white plastic centre of the later tensioner. The early ones are all steel.
I can't remember if anything else needs to be removed to get the rear cover off, but it is held on with recessed 7mm hex head screws, so you need a suitable socket and compact ratchet handle.
I can't remember if anything else needs to be removed to get the rear cover off, but it is held on with recessed 7mm hex head screws, so you need a suitable socket and compact ratchet handle.
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Re: xantia rescue
Ah thanks for that,if weather permits it I know what im going to be doing over the weekendxantia_v6 wrote: ↑30 Sep 2021, 22:58 You need to remove the rear upper belt cover. The tensioner is behind the lower cover, but you should be able to see the white plastic centre of the later tensioner. The early ones are all steel.
I can't remember if anything else needs to be removed to get the rear cover off, but it is held on with recessed 7mm hex head screws, so you need a suitable socket and compact ratchet handle.
- Scottculli
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Re: xantia rescue
Hey everyone just a quick update iv now finished of the front calipers, it funny how some new rubber and a bit of paint can completely transform something
- Scottculli
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Re: xantia rescue
Hey everyone, ive moved onto the rear calipers and ive seen their aluminium, and i carnt use my wire wheel and angle grinder on it, so i was wondering do you know any quick ways to get scale and rust of aluminium?
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Re: xantia rescue
The corrosion usually builds up on the training arm (but it does eat the aluminium of the calliper). It is hard as slate, but what I did when I had to deal with it (on the arm) was to lightly tap it with a hammer and chisel (to crack it), and then gently knock it off the arm. You will probably need to replace the callipers, so it could be worth putting some gasket paper between the calliper and arm, to protect the calliper in future.
https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... hp?t=38467
https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... hp?t=38467
Last edited by Hell Razor5543 on 27 Oct 2021, 17:01, edited 1 time in total.
James
ex BX 1.9
ex Xantia 2.0HDi SX
ex Xantia 2.0HDi LX
Ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
Ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
C5 2.2HDi VTX+
Yes, I am paranoid, but am I paranoid ENOUGH?
Out amongst the stars, looking for a world of my own!
ex BX 1.9
ex Xantia 2.0HDi SX
ex Xantia 2.0HDi LX
Ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
Ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
C5 2.2HDi VTX+
Yes, I am paranoid, but am I paranoid ENOUGH?
Out amongst the stars, looking for a world of my own!
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Re: xantia rescue
Yea i know what you mean ive tried chiping bits of it off and then using a file to flatten it down, it just takes ages.i was just wondering if the was anyway to clean the other parts of the calliper quickly?Hell Razor5543 wrote: ↑27 Oct 2021, 16:54 The corrosion usually builds up on the training arm (but it does eat the aluminium of the calliper). It is hard as slate, but what I did when I had to deal with it (on the arm) was to lightly tap it with a hammer and chisel (to crack it), and then gently knock it off the arm. You will probably need to replace the callipers, so it could be worth putting some gasket paper between the calliper and arm, to protect the calliper in future.
- Scottculli
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Re: xantia rescue
Hey everyone I hope you are doing well.
ive got just a quick question ive been looking on the internet to replace my rear calipers and was wondering was the calliper of the 1.8 the same as the v6. And as a different idea i was wondering would the calliper of the c5 fit on the xantia
ive got just a quick question ive been looking on the internet to replace my rear calipers and was wondering was the calliper of the 1.8 the same as the v6. And as a different idea i was wondering would the calliper of the c5 fit on the xantia
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Re: xantia rescue
All Xantia hatchbacks used the same calipers.
In practice, the short story is that they all use the same disks and pads (estates have bigger rear brakes).
In practice, the short story is that they all use the same disks and pads (estates have bigger rear brakes).