There is nothing to configure Karel - it is not required. There are only 2 settings - one is for a Petrol type engine and the other is for Diesels - so you would already have the correct setting for your 3.0 HDi.
Hi Marc, thanks for your reply! IIRC, I saw something like regulated / non-regulated alternator somewhere and cannot find the place any more.
Do I normally go to Global test and then continue to a specific system, where I can configure stuff, or do I choose another first-level menu in DiagBox?
No - you don't change it Karel - the option is ALWAYS Controlled for petrol and Standard for Diesel - don't change the setting. As I said, you would already have the correct one programmed in - changing it may cause you grief....
Diesels need more power to start than petrols, so use up more power and need replenishing more quickly.
Well, if Standard is the one, which charges the batery more, then I am fine with that.
I am unhappy about, how the battery is treated in my car. The voltage (measured in my cigarette lighter socket) reads about 13.8 V with engine running. It used to increase, when I was decelerating, but in the last couple of months the voltage does not rise above 14.0 V any more. Maybe it is because the charge level is high (90% just now). From time to time I recharge the battery by an external charger, when I park at home.
So I thought I can tweak it with the alternator setting, but I see, there is no room for improvement. Fu...ng EURO5.
Yes, no settings Karel. But 14.3 to 14.7 is what you typically will have at idle - measure with a multimeter across the battery terminals is best. If a lot less than this, how old is the battery? You have a 3.0 HDi so the battery will be on the larger size - but if older than 5 years it won't be running as well as a new one and my have reduced capacity. A newer Smart charger will be able to do a full recondition de-sulpherisation stage and charge for you if you aren't using it at the present time during lockdown.
You probably meant 13.3 to 13.7, didn't you?
This is what you typically have on contemporary cars, whereas it used to be 14.3 V at times, when batteries lasted 7+ years. This is what I am aming at. Well, let's close the discussion, if there is no possibility to get rid of the fuel savings on any cost
No worries - good luck with it. but do measure across the battery terminals so you can see what is actually going into the battery. Using the cigarette lighter or other location may not provide an accurate reading as the power is already going through other components before it gets there and we know that the 12V socket is BSI controlled too.