My Engine

[Little Grebe]

Side of Bowman heat exchanger

[Little Grebe]

Oil Cooler.
The black hose to the left goes to the water pump manifold.
The green hose to the right comes from the thermostat housing (your photo shows it unused)

[Little Grebe]

The parts diagrams that have been used are very useful, please could you tell me how I can access/obtain them. Thank you.

[Little Grebe]

Thermostat housing (green hose to oil cooler)

Black hose to the right from the oil cooler runs into the top of the water pump manifold.

[XUD Marine]

Thanks for posting these. It's interesting to see another set-up.
It does look a bit different to mine. I see the heat exchanger is on the right side. Is it one of those intergrated with the exhaust manifold?
Looks like an air filter below, must be a non-standard air manifold.
I also see you are not using the main outlet of the thermostat, it's blanked off.

I've not posted for a bit as real life gets in the way sometimes and I've not done much engine work lately, Ive been fibreglassing inside in preparation for the engine beds going in.
I got my mate (plumber and boat nut) to pipe up the cooling system for me. I just had to label which port goes to where, by putting matching numbers on each pair.
It now looks something like this:-

Here you see the salt water going from the strainer at the back though a transparent tube (to get visual on water moving) to the Jabsco (salt water) pump on the crank pulley. From there to the heat exchanger core. Also the pipe from the thermostat to the header tank. The left port of the oil cooler fed from the heater outlet, then returned to the water pump from the right outlet port. A transparent expansion pipe from the stat housing to the header tank, the black expansion pipe from the tank itself just drops to the bilge.

Here you see the salt water from the Jabsco pump to the heat exchanger, then out the right side to the exhaust. Also the cooled coolant from the bottom of the header tank returning to the water pump.

Here is the T split in the salt water pipe from the heat exchanger core into the exhaust manifold, to feed both sides of the Y shape. Also the heater outlet that goes to the oil cooler.

One of the inlet ports on the water pump has been blanked off. That one will take the return from the heater (when I get around to fitting one), that will also need a T split on the heater outlet.
The only pipe I'm not so sure about is the main one from the stat to the header tank, I think I would have preferred it routed something like suggested in this pre-fitting photo:-

Bending forward, horizontal, then up and forward to the tank.

In other news, I now have a propeller which I'm happy about. I was having difficilty sourcing one the right size, pitch and direction for a shaft driven inboard, so ended up spending more than I would have liked to. But I justified this to myself thinking it would be a bigger waste of money to buy a cheaper, easily available one of the "wrong" spec that would result in the engine and boat not reaching its full potential.
But this is subject to getting calculations correct, whether the prop is the perfect match for the engine, geabox and hull. There are a lot of variables and you don't know for certain untill it's in the water.

[Little Grebe]

Your engine is looking good.
The main thermostat outlet is not blanked off (I can see it looks like it though ) it runs around the back in rubber and Cooper and into the heat exchanger.
I hope the oil cooler photos helped.
I am working on upgrading the exhaust the manifold outlet is 63mm and the Vetus hose and water lock is 60mm, sounds simple but trying to get it all to fit is frustrating.

As you can see the engine was converted new and I also have an expansion tank in the cooling system, this forum has been a valuable source of information.

I have a vetus 330 raw water strainer mounted well above the water line, we have a lot of weed on the river so I can clear it.

I have a freeman mk 2 directly behind me, its a well made boat with a BMC petrol engine.

If you need any other information or photos please ask.

Mark

[Little Grebe]

You can just make out the thermostat housing (dismantled ) hose and cooper tube run to the left and into the top of the heat exchanger.
Like you I am replacing all of the hoses and upgrading the hose clips, once she is running again and all the messy jobs are done the engine will then be re painted.

I have just picked up the Vetus NLP60HD water lock and had James from French Marine Motors advise on the exhaust layout.

[XUD Marine]

Here is what I have done about the absence of the brake pump on the back end of the camshaft.
First a bit of old-tech, with the Verniers and a paper rubbing to get a rough sketch.
Then some new-tech, I model the part on computer, then send it to the 3D printer at work. The printer took about 2 1/2 hours to make this end-cap.

It's made from ABS wich is reasonably strong and heat resistant, adequate for a non-moving part.

The blue bit is a gasget I made by taking a thin slice from the bottom of the model and printing in Flex, which is a rubberised plastic.

Then fitted to the engine with a couple of stainless bolts. I put just a smear of sealant on the gasget to ensure a seal.
The rusty old bolt in the oil hole is just temporary.
And a good coincidence that the materials in the workshop fit pefectly with my colour scheme.

My dad has turned down the prop shaft to fit the taper on the prop and made a key for the keyway, I'm just waiting for a 3/4" BSF nut to hold it on (should be in the post) then that's the prop fitted.
So one of the next jobs will be fitting the engine beds in the bilge ready to drop the engine actually into the boat.

[XUD Marine]

As for the other pressureised oil hole, it was suggested to me, rather than just plug the hole and forget about it, I may make use of it by putting an oil pressure gauge there.
I'm not sure about having just a pressure gauge stuck out the back of the engine, which will mostly be under the cover of a box, unseen when in use.
But thought more useful would be a sensor/sender unit there, then the gauge on the control panel where I can see it.
Any thoughts on this?
I did start looking at what was available, first just sensors, then thought about what gauges they will work with, so looked at sensor and gauge kits. Then I saw some combi gauge kits, with pressure, temp and volt dials, for example:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-52mm-Tripl ... 0005.m1851
Are these things any good?
That one has two separate sensors for pressure and temp. The pressure could go on that hole (probably needing a thread adaptor) but not sure where the temp would go.
The sensors already on the engine are just on/off warning lights, so gauges may be a nice addition.

[white exec]

That kit looks suspiciously cheap, although attractive enough. Wonder about the (likely Chinese) quality?
Good use for the hole, though.
Best place for water temp sensor is on the thermostat (water outlet) housing, on the engine block side of the 'stat.

[white exec]

Not sure whether of any use, but I've got one of these going spare...

Complete with just over 2m of nylon pressure pipe, mounting bracket/O-ring, and an optional black bezel.

Also have matching 2" analogue time-clock, and 30-0-30 ammeter - all Smiths 2" panel mounting, and rear illuminating. Smiths originals, left over from Rover days.

PM me if interested.

[XUD Marine]

That kit looks suspiciously cheap, although attractive enough. Wonder about the (likely Chinese) quality?

That's kind of why I ask, it looks very good for the money, but sometimes that's worrying.
Ebay is awash with cheap Chinese products, some actually are not bad at all, but some are cheap rubbish, it's hard to know until you buy.
For example I was looking at control levers (Throttle and gears) and saw Chinese ones significantly cheaper than the branded Morse ones.
Then talking to a mate today, he says he got the cheap one and it's absolutely fine.

Getting back to the gauges, they also do some fancy digital display ones, but my senses tell me these will probably be more prone to malfunction than analog mechanical dials.

Thanks for the offer of the Smith gauge. Though I think the 2 meter pipe may not be long enough for me and TBH I'm not keen on having a longer pressure pipe, thinking an electrical sender would be the safer option.
I will keep the other dials in mind, as I do now need to start planning my dashboard and electrical system.

[xantia_v6]

Note that you can't really use an old-fashioned ammeter with a modern alternator, firstly because full charging current exceeds a safe value for the meter, and secondly because the alternator requires a very direct path to the battery, and the cables to and from the meter (and the meter itself) add too much resistance for it to charge the battery properly.

[XUD Marine]

Best place for water temp sensor is on the thermostat (water outlet) housing, on the engine block side of the 'stat.

If you ever fitted a proper temp gauge later on, you would replace one of these switches (the lower temp one) with a sensor for the gauge. So you're right: one for gauge, plus one as a warning.

OK, so which is which?

The shorter one closer the engine has a red base.
The other with the taller nut has black.
So one can be replaced by the temp gauge sensor.
Do these have a 10mm thread when removed like the sensor I looked at?

[white exec]

Parts gives some useful info for those two sensors:

On some cars, these were simple switches:
One was used to flag up first level of warning (usually a continuously lit amber dash light).
Second one illuminates a red dash light, on some models via a small flasher module.

The parts diag shows the Red one to be a thermistor (rather than switch), so I guess it was used to drive a dash temperature gauge.
Take them out, and try a hot water test to check which each one is.

The third thing you could make use of is the drilling/pipe-snout at the front of the casting, in front of the black sensor, if you haven't made use of it already - eg for a bleed/expansion take-off. All three of those tappings are into the block side of the 'stat, so definitely the right place for all the sensors.