My Engine

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moizeau
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by moizeau »

Yep, with the engine out in the open, take your time, follow the BOLs, as Chris said earlier it was written in the Haynes' 'Hay Day', it'll probably take you a couple of hours if you've never done one before, if you have, about 30 mins. There is plenty of advice and previous posts on here to refer to, and you can always ask. It's not the 'black art' that mechanics would have you believe.
Keep us all updated.

XUD Marine
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by XUD Marine »

Just a slight update on where I'm at now. Not had any time during the week for any hands on work, but my Haynes Manual arrived on Teusday so I've been swatting up with that and looking for parts I may need.
After reading the cambelt proceedure it doesn't seem so scary now and I have a new one ordered, though I don't think it will get here till Monday.
I also have a better idea about what all the hose ports and electrical connectors are.

I found some interesting photos here of a similar project on a 1.9 Turbo version:-
https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index ... nt=1772423
Looks like they have a big sea-cooled intercooler on top and I think the oil cooler is fed from the output to the heater.

moizeau
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by moizeau »

The hardest thing I think will be undoing the crankshaft bolt with it not being in the car. If you've got a rattle gun, that'll take it off, but you need to torque it back on. DON'T use the peg in the flywheel to lock the engine. You may have to take the bellhousing off to lock the flywheel properly? This bit will probably take more of your time than that actual cam belt / water pump job. As long as the tensioner moves freely, wheel and tensioner, then it's fine. Unless you've got one in the kit, in which case fit it.
Keep us posted

XUD Marine
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by XUD Marine »

moizeau wrote:
04 Jul 2019, 21:06
The hardest thing I think will be undoing the crankshaft bolt with it not being in the car.

I did wonder if it would come off/on with the pulley still on. I'll need the nut to turn the engine as I have no wheels and the gearbox is geared down, so geared up going the other way.
moizeau wrote:
04 Jul 2019, 21:06
DON'T use the peg in the flywheel to lock the engine.
You may have to take the bellhousing off to lock the flywheel properly?
I didn't think of that. In the book they use the brake which I don't have. I'd rather not remove the bellhousing agian, it's a job getting the drive spline in place.
I guess I still need the peg to locate the TDC, just not to hold it, by the look of the photo in the manual the hole is behind the starter, inaccessible with the starter in place. Though it's not such a big deal to remove the starter and that should expose some flywheel teeth to get a lock onto.

moizeau
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by moizeau »

You have to remove the bottom pulley in order to remove the lower cam belt cover if I remember correctly. You can access the timing hole at the back of the starter with a bent rod. I think there is a picture of it in the manual, it's probably just as easy to remove the starter though in your situation. The fuel pump and cam needs pegging too.
Mark the old belt and toothed gear at the crank, cam and fuel pump with tipex or similar before you remove it, then transfer the marks to the new belt and line them up on the relevant gears. With the engine being locked in a timed position this shouldn't be necessary, however, there is a little bit of free movement even when locked and you may find that as you work the new belt in to position one of the pulleys leave you with a question when the belt wants to sit 1/2 a tooth out. Which way do you go? With the paint marks you know. It's just belt and braces and adds 30 seconds to the job.

XUD Marine
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by XUD Marine »

moizeau wrote:
05 Jul 2019, 20:42
You have to remove the bottom pulley in order to remove the lower cam belt cover if I remember correctly.

I have already had the bottom cover off when I painted it, gave all 3 covers a good wash.
moizeau wrote:
05 Jul 2019, 20:42
You can access the timing hole at the back of the starter with a bent rod. I think there is a picture of it in the manual, it's probably just as easy to remove the starter though in your situation.

The manual shows a drill bit, with no stater there, presumably because you would not see it with the starter. I couldn't spot the hole when I looked for it, but looking at a photo before I fitted the starter, I know where it is now, two ribs point to it, though it may be simpler to remove the starer, there isn't much room there.
moizeau wrote:
05 Jul 2019, 20:42
Mark the old belt and toothed gear at the crank, cam and fuel pump with tipex or similar before you remove it, then transfer the marks to the new belt and line them up on the relevant gears.

Good tip.

On another tangent, I have the TDC sensor but don't know where to put it. Searching around, some say it's on the engine block, others the bellhousing. I'm thinking probably the bellhousing because I found it just dangling both ends detached with the middle of the wire clipped to the back of the engine, the engine came without a bellhousing. I that read this drives the rev counter.

moizeau
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by moizeau »

No idea on that one, never been that close to that end of the engine.
Someone will be along who knows.

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white exec
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by white exec »

Haynes should show the location of the TDC sensor.
If it doesn't, shout, and we can try to find the location on a Parts diagram.

RichardW
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by RichardW »

TDC sensor is on the engine rear flange, exhaust manifold side, about in line with the centre of the crank. Retained with a 10mm head bolt.

XUD Marine
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by XUD Marine »

white exec wrote:
05 Jul 2019, 22:13
Haynes should show the location of the TDC sensor.

I only see two references to it in there, in removing the transmission and reconnecting it. It doesn't say exactly where it is, but the section and where I found the wire clipped on suggests flywheel area.
There is a photo of removal, but it's not obvious from that where you are.
tdc1.jpg
RichardW wrote:
05 Jul 2019, 23:01
TDC sensor is on the engine rear flange, exhaust manifold side, about in line with the centre of the crank. Retained with a 10mm head bolt.

Thanks, I think I spotted it in a photo, but wasn't sure because it doesn't look like the Haynes picture, and it being found unattached led me to beleive it was on the removed bellhousing.
tdc01.jpg
Is this the right hole? It looks about right for where it's dangling in this early photo of the engine as found.

Sometimes it's difficult to fathom things while at the computer with just the book and photos to go on, when I don't have the engine to hand to look at.

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white exec
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by white exec »

I think that isn't the right hole; the fixings look wrong.
The Haynes photo looks more like the position circled green...
TDC sensor 1.7 XUD.jpg
TDC sensor 1.7 XUD.jpg (43.74 KiB) Viewed 189 times
You should be able to find/see the steel peg (or bracket) down the hole that the sensor tip should come close to, just once per engine revolution. Take car with positioning it: you don't want it beheaded!

XUD Marine
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by XUD Marine »

OK, I will have to take a look when I go there in the afternoon.
I thought it poked through that hole and the holder fastens to the holes on the side, but I see where you are coming from with the picture.
I'm just not sure if there is a gap in the bellhousig there, being a non-standard housing.

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white exec
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by white exec »

The BE04 label in the Haynes photo is the gearbox, iron engine block to the right.

Just had a thought:

Looks like the TDC sensor on this diesel has the sole function of feeding the tachometer (rev counter), where fitted. See p.167, Haynes. Timing on this engine is purely mechanical; no electronic input.
As such, the exact positioning of the TDC sensor would not be critical, but could be placed anywhere round the flywheel, where convenient, provided there is a "once per rev" ferrous triggering post/tab.
Might prove useful if your marine gearbox blocks the previous TDC mounting point.

If you need an engine tacho (I would think you would), there are other ways an electronic one could be fed from the engine. One easy sensing point is the LH (flywheel) end of the camshaft, where the original HP pump pulley was fitted. As the camshaft runs at half crank speed, two triggering pips (at 180°) would be needed. I did this addition myself, years ago, when upgrading a N/A 1.9D to a full instrument pod, with tacho.

XUD Marine
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by XUD Marine »

white exec wrote:
06 Jul 2019, 11:31
You should be able to find/see the steel peg (or bracket) down the hole that the sensor tip should come close to, just once per engine revolution. Take car with positioning it: you don't want it beheaded!

What does that look like, is it on the flywheel or drive plate?
I don't recall seeing anyting like that. All I see on the flywheel is a notch on the edge (at the very top of the wheel in the photo) and I think thre is another the same opposite it.
Note that drive plate is no more, it was replaced with one to fit my gearbox. So if it is on the drive plate, it's gone.
DSC04444 copy.jpg

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white exec
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Re: My Engine

Unread post by white exec »

That was the perfect photo to post!
TDC sensor 1.7 XUD _3.jpg
The notch(es) are on/in the flywheel, not the drive plate/clutch cover.
Mounting holes are circled; triggering has to be by the notch (arrowed) - could be two of them, as you say.
The connector on the end of the grey sensor lead is also used as a simple diagnostic socket (simply to measure engine revs).

If the marine gearbox is in the way, I'd forget about the sensor at this stage. You can easily improvise something using the camshaft end (easily accessible and done) later on.