Power steering pumps keep failing - Peugeot Partner Combi 2005 2.0 HDI

[wheeler]

Sounds like a case of typical CP4L/euro car parts (they are the same company) garbage, its not uncommon to get several faulty units in a row from this lot. I wouldn’t buy anything from them anymore unless it is a brand name part and i was desperate.

[white exec]

Marc, the reason I asked about lifting the wheels before attempting to turn the wheel from lock to lock without the engine running, was that on several of our PAS cars (BX, XM...) it's well nigh impossible to do that without Hulk effort, which can't be good for the mechanism, surely.
Surely? I know...Don't call me Shirley.
Just wondered.

[GiveMeABreak]

I suppose the best thing to do, is to suggest that it’s lifted up on the four post left to be bled. That way it should keep the car level and make it easier to turn the wheels. I understand fully what you’re saying Chris.

[GiveMeABreak]

Sounds like a case of typical CP4L/euro car parts (they are the same company) garbage, its not uncommon to get several faulty units in a row from this lot. I wouldn’t buy anything from them anymore unless it is a brand name part and i was desperate.

Eurocarparts? Say no more then! I’ll never use them again after every part I ordered for different vehicles was faulty or damaged or both. Three times in a row.

[Hell Razor5543]

CitroNut (may his soul rest in peace) used to call the "Euro Crap Parts", and he would never use them after a few bad experiences.

[Element]

Before starting a new thread I thought I'd add on to this one..
2.0 Partner 2004 vintage. To begin with the crankshaft pulley started making its tell tale noise so I changed it, then changed the belt too. Car sat on drive for 2 months. then started it up and drove up drive to find the steering really stiff. Deduced that the steering pump was faulty and got an identical one from a breakers yard, fitted and followed the bleed procedure.. a little better but not good enough. Decided to buy one from Carparts4less. It arrived in pristine condition, looking for all the world as a brand new part, absolutely mint condition, no oil, no dirt, no scratches at all. Removed the scrap pump and fitted the new pump and followed the bleed procedure again. This time the steering is again better but still not right; and there is a distinct hissing sound coming from the belt / pulleys area. There are no fluid leaks anywhere - if something was sucking in air - I'd expect to see the same place leaking fluid out - but there's nothing obvious anywhere. I figure that maybe there is either a auxiliary pulley bearing going or it is the pump itself - or somewhere there is air being compressed and escaping but I can't see or sense where... I haven't driven the car in months now as I have another one to use meanwhile but I would like to get through this problem and get it back on the road..

I appreciate that CP4L parts may be suspect; but would it be feasible that both a genuine scrappy one and a 'new' CP4L one were both suspect - would my luck really be that bad! The others that have had problems with their P/S pumps; what was the solution found in the end? Did they resolve it or was there something else other than the pump as the fault at hand?

Can anyone possibly suggest what else I can do to diagnose where the hissing air sound is coming from & remedy the power steering? It is maybe working 55% but still has the 'segmented feel' while turning the steering wheel... Thanks for your input...

[GiveMeABreak]

Put your VIN up here so I can see exactly what you have.

[Element]

Vin No: VF3**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, so several things:-

1) Are you getting any fault codes after running a diagnostic on the power steering system?
2) If not, ensure you have followed the correct draining, filling and bleeding procedure as I listed below.
3) If you are still getting permanent ineffectiveness of the power steering system, is it possible you have had an impact to the front right-hand and/or front left-hand wheel? If so, it is possible that the torsion bar internal to the power steering valve has become twisted.
4) As you have already replaced the pump with a second hand and a new pump, and the problem remains, then an impact as previously described can have also cause damage to the steering mechanism (rack) itself.

Power Steering Fluid for your build number is AT42.

This is the official bleeding procedure - check you followed this and that you used new fluid:

Initial Draining
Draining of the power steering hydraulic circuit must be carried out with the engine switched off.
Open the filler cap.

Unclamp the steering pipes near the valve.
Remove bolts (1 ).

Using a lever, move aside the clamp ( 2 ) from the valve.

CAUTION: Take care not to damage the valve.
Direct the pipes into a container.
Turn the steering from lock to lock in each direction.
Wait for the oil to finish draining.

Refilling: Power steering hydraulic system

CAUTION: Work with care to avoid the entry of contaminating particles.

Refit the new seals ( 3 ).
Refit:

• The bracket (2 )
• The (1 ) bolt

Tighten the bolt (1 ) to 2 ± 0.2 daN.m.

Top up the power steering reservoir level to the mark ( c ) on the cap.
With the engine not running, turn the steering slowly from lock to lock in both directions ( Approximately 10 times) .
Top up the power steering reservoir level to the mark ( c ) on the cap.

Bleeding: Power steering hydraulic system

Run the engine at idle for 2 to 3 minutes without moving the steering wheel.
Bleed the circuit by turning the steering several times in each direction.
Keep the fluid level topped up.

Level: Power steering hydraulic system

(H): Maximum level ( Hot) .
(C): Maximum level ( Cold) .
(ADD): Level minimum.
The oil level must be checked/topped up with the engine off.

[Element]

Thank you for such a detailed reply! There has been no impact. I didn't drain the fluid as you describe; I'll do that and replace it and see if that helps. I previously just removed the pump(s) and topped up with fluid; the haynes book I have didn't mention draining the whole volume.. I have done the bleeding procedure but - I'll have a crack at it this weekend with new fluid and see what happens..

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, no problems, but note the section above immediately before the bleeding part - when initially topping up the fluid - the engine must not be running for that part. Only when bleeding in the next section..

Best of luck.

[Element]

I got 2 new sealing 'O' rings from the local dealer. managed to get the 'plate' away but could only get the one pipe to come out of the valve, the other one was stuck tight (extremely limited working space in there). Drained the fluid then with a new sealing ring, refitted the one pipe back in. refilled the reservoir, bled 10x left & right engine off (with a bit of ply sheet and a bit of hard flat plastic under both wheels). Then engine on for 4 mins before repeating the same again.
Result: much better steering, not perfect - but then I haven't been driving it for 6 months and can't remember what it was like before (compared to my golf it is only about 75% as good).
However, the hissing sound is still there and still comes from the pulley area. I'll record it on my phone for 10 secs and upload it to youtube and put the link in here this week. I wonder whether it's the alternator pulley.
The steering is much better though thank you.

[GiveMeABreak]

Ok, so an improvement, but if it's still playing up, maybe the pump itself is on the way out if it's hissing - part number 4007LT for reference.

[Element]

They're only a few seconds long but it's enough to hear the pulley noise - like a scoring hissing sound. The further away from the car you are, the more it sounds like a loud hissing sound.