C5 X7 Steering Rack - Again!

[darbuck]

Right, back at the steering rack today I want to straighten the steering wheel and centre the rack on reassembly. I have it centred on the bench, I still need to fit the tie rods and spacers. I pulled the steering wheel off and had a look at the angle sensor it seems to be pointing at 11:00ish should it be vertical at straight ahead or is it different for each car. The wheel itself has a notch at 11:00 aswell.which makes me think it's the correct alignment already. Any thoughts

[GiveMeABreak]

If you've taken the steering wheel angle sensor off it will now need calibrating again or you'll get ESP errors I expect. Before doing that you need to have the wheels dead ahead before removing it and for calibration with Diagbox.

[darbuck]

Hi Marc I have rebuilt the steering rack and will need to realign everything when complete. I have the steering wheel off at the moment there is an angle sensor attached to the fixed column and there appears to be a clock spring in the steering wheel itself aswell. This is not mentioned in my version of the doc backup. Can you post up all the repair procedures for the clock spring/steering sensor. I am afraid of snapping the spring if I don't have it all centred correctly hence why I took the wheel off to see where it is sitting.

[Sloppysod]

If you've taken the steering wheel angle sensor off it will now need calibrating again or you'll get ESP errors I expect. Before doing that you need to have the wheels dead ahead before removing it and for calibration with Diagbox.

In addition to Marc's comment..
The process is you drive for a short distance, approximately 100 metres, with the laptop (diagbox) connected as you will need to follow the instructions.
.To make sure you drive straight you will need a reasonably flat carpark, tracked steering , & correct tyre pressures.
Once you have all your ducks in a row, it's asimple process. .

[GiveMeABreak]

There's nothing related to the steering wheel angle sensor as it's integrated into the clock spring unit IIRC and the calibration procedure is guided from Diagbox. I'll see if I can dig something more out, but I'm doubtful as the unit is considered a replaceable part - with the calibration via the diagnostic tool.

^^ As Stu says ^^

[darbuck]

Hmm thanks for that Stu, I have no problem doing that once I have it rebuilt at the moment the block is sitting on the driveway and the head is on my bench waiting on valves so won't be driving it for a few weeks. I am just doing what I can when I can this has turned into a major project car,for a car that was supposed to be a buy it and drive it, it hasn't ticked that box by a long shot.

[darbuck]

Ok thanks Marc, the steering wheel was never straight on it by the way.

[marceloc86]

Oh, my box of goodies has arrived!

Hi, my steering racket is making some noise. I've already change all the rods.
But now is making noise the racket itself in the right side. Is this part to rebuild it?

[darbuck]

You need to figure out why it is noisy, that is part of the fix for a leaking rack that part goes on the pinion to give a smooth surface for the new seals. You might want to watch some of the videos further back in this thread to get a feel for what is involved. It's a lot of work and not for the faint hearted. I would start by figuring out what is causing the noise if it's rattling and you changed the tie rods it's probably a suspension issue rather than steering. Work through it methodically and most importantly safely.

[MattBLancs]

Oh, my box of goodies has arrived!

Hi, my steering racket is making some noise. I've already change all the rods.
But now is making noise the racket itself in the right side. Is this part to rebuild it?

That bit only serves to make a nice smooth surface for a new lip seal to run against= would think it unlikely any significant noise originated from there.

If you have eliminated noise from the track rod ends (inner and outer ends if each have a ball joint, inners have easier life and last a lot longer, but suppose not "forever") I would look elsewhere at the suspension - there is a upper ball joint each side and a slightly "infamous" lower bearing known as a FRIP also one on each side. I would have a really good look at these before delving into the rack itself

[darbuck]

Agreed

[Stickyfinger]

Note, you cannot really "test" the lower FRIP joint with the wheels off the ground.....on the ground, wheels turned and a large lever bar is best

[marceloc86]

Thanks.

I took some picture from a video, inside the bearing marked in red there is a white plastic. I guess that's the worn piece
I changed that plastic on my ex-C3 once ago, I found the replacement on the internet and I trying to find that piece for the C5 also.

[darbuck]

I didn't go that deep into mine as it didn't need it. I don't think anyone on here has gone that far in and posted on it.The main problem is there is no parts list available for these racks so you have to take it apart to find what you are looking for. I have just finished putting what I took off back together.

[MattBLancs]

Interesting that would fail, would think a chunk of nylon / PTFE? In oil and hidden from muck by the external gaiter would last forever! Sadly not!

Is that a lip seal incorporated into it too? Complex to recreate and not sure where to look to source them (other than a rack specialist who might be reluctant to sell but Vs a full rack I'd guess)