Cam belt snapped on Peugeot partner please help!

[RichardW]

Should be - I would expect the Cam to come with running in instructions, you normally have to run them at 2k rpm for 30 mins or so after fitting (but I guess a modern cam might not be like that!). At least you weren't going barmy on the timing issue!

[JayRenton]

Haha I know!! My bloody head was just hurting in the end! Hopefully this sorts it.
There’s a couple of things I need to ask,
What’s the thing that slots in the end of the camshaft where the dizzy would be on and old petrol engine? As I think I might of lost it’s orientation!

And on the fuel pump there are 2 pegging points for the timing 180 degrees apart, does it matter which one I use?
I’m not that clued up with Diesel engines as you can tell and I’d prefer to get this sorted now to avoid any problems when I come to start it up.

Thanks James

[RichardW]

What’s the thing that slots in the end of the camshaft where the dizzy would be on and old petrol engine? As I think I might of lost it’s orientation!

Vac pump, not timed, just make sure the drive is engaged.

And on the fuel pump there are 2 pegging points for the timing 180 degrees apart, does it matter which one I use?
I’m not that clued up with Diesel engines as you can tell and I’d prefer to get this sorted now to avoid any problems when I come to start it up

The fuel pump on an HDi is not timed, so it shouldn't matter. Famous last words!

[JayRenton]

Cheers mate!!!

[JayRenton]

Will I get away with using the old tappers do you think? I’ve read you should fit new ones with a new cam but does that just mean a worn cam?

[sidney84]

Hi,
It is just a swap in swap out depending on what you order - I ordered the whole cam carrier with cam and sprocket (from ebay) as it was barely any more expensive and saved a bit of messing about. I did however subsequently discover I got a slightly different camshaft stamped AB rather than the AC which came out, even though it was off the same DV4TD engine and the scrappy claimed it was from a C3. The only difference was the slot in the end where the vac pump fitted was shallower and hence the original vac pump didn't fit. I didn't notice this until I attempted to fit the pump and couldn't understand why it wouldn't fully seat when I tightened the two bolts. !!!!!The consequence of this was it jammed the camshaft tight - thankfully I didn't put the vac pump on last of all (and might not have realised the jam until until starting the engine!!!!). I machined off a bit of the 'key' in the vac pump to make it fit.

I reused my tappets fine - but sounds like your snap was a bit more severe.

I concur the fuel pump provides a constant high pressure to the common rail and the injectors just feed off it as and when (according to my Haynes). However to be safe I did roughly line mine up for no other reason than there was a hole to be lined up. There were two holes 180 apart but one had another just above it (a pair of holes) just double check this isn't the case.

Good luck!

[JayRenton]

Thanks for the advice mate, nightmare I wouldn’t have the facilities to machine out the slot lol.
I’ll will be putting it all back together tomorrow afternoon hopefully so I’ll let you know how it goes.

James

[sparksie]

Lol
Very very few would have facilities to machine out a slot.
However, any car boot sale will provide what you need to take a bit off the key, for about 50p
A hand file and some patience is all you need.
If you're less patient and more adventurous, a cheap 4.5" angle grinder and a metal grinding disc will do it, but go very carefully and, whatever method you use, check it frequently and carefully remove all swarf.
A better solution might be to source the right vac pump for your camshaft from a scrappy, but if you're careful and don't leave it sloppy, machining the key is acceptable.

[JayRenton]

Big update guys!!!!

Swapped the cam out today and can’t believe how twisted all the lobes were compared to the new cam.
The engine fired up straight away and sounds ok but the check engine light came on the second it started.
I literally only ran it for 30 seconds keeping the revs around 2k to bed the cam in but turned it off as it was dark.
Could it be the fact the fault is still stored or have a got a problem?

So close now thanks for all the help.

James

[Hell Razor5543]

There are some occasions when the ECUs need to 'see' several clean runs before 'believing' the fault has been cleared up. Typically this is five clean runs before the warning light will be turned off.

[JayRenton]

Oh ok mate hopefully that’s the case then and it will be ok, fingers crossed!!

[RichardW]

Good work, at least it will run! If the light is still on, you will need to get some diag time to find out what it's upset about.

[JayRenton]

Cheers!! It’s all finished and running sweet the engine light has gone off too so I’m over moon! Done around 20 miles so far! The engine seems nice and quiet even more so than before!
Time for a few beers now I think!!

Thanks so much for all the help, we got there in the end!!! Great forum!

James

[ekjdm14]

....In particular the cam lobes 'give' because rather than being machined from a single piece the lobes are pressed on to the shaft....

Nice post glad we've finally found the answer to this & I'd bet a few of us have learned something new also from this. I've never heard of a pressed-up camshaft before, that's frankly absurd IMO. I wonder what the reasoning behind it is, since I'd have thought it'd be more expensive and labour intensive than having a one-piece cast/forged item as per normal?

Jay, well done on sticking with it and seeing the job through! This is one of those things that's fit to drive you nuts, for most of us I think the camshaft being "right" is/WAS pretty much a given as long as it wasn't worn or snapped!

[sparksie]

Yep!
In the trade a long time and never came across this.
I'll ask around, but it will probably break down into two camps. Those who say "Of course! Thought everybody knew that!" and those who've never heard of it.