C5 X7 Hydraulics

Post by **Paul-R** » 11 Dec 2017, 10:19

xantia_v6 wrote: ↑11 Dec 2017, 03:15With a ball joint, the pivot point of the suspension and the pivot point of the steering are forced to be coincident, the FRIP joint gives the designer freedom to optimise the geometry independently in 2 planes.

Yes, I get that. But my question is what benefit is that?

Gibbo2286 · Post by **Gibbo2286** » 11 Dec 2017, 10:47

A good video but it needed a practice run before filming, then he would have had the calliper etc. out of the way first.

The levering tool could be better if it had a link down so that it could be foot operated to hold it down whilst the other work was done.

Certainly removes the need for a trip to the gym for exercise.

gambler072 · Post by **gambler072** » 11 Dec 2017, 12:20

Thanks for the replies. I've checked the prices in few stores, and I will start with drop links, hoping that will fix the issue, if not I'll have FRIP examined. I have to decide which manufaturer of the drop links should I buy, so what would you recommend - Delphi, Sasic or Eurorepar (or maybe something else)? Genuine PSA spare is approximately 60€/piece, not sure whether it is a good idea, the others cost 20-30€.

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 11 Dec 2017, 12:22

Easy to check the FRIP joint, it just needs a leaver bar with the wheels on the ground.

EDC5 · Post by **EDC5** » 11 Dec 2017, 13:58

xantia_v6 wrote: ↑11 Dec 2017, 03:23 The more I think about it, the more I am sure that the persistent problem with speed bumps is due to inappropriate (or at least marginal) damper settings in the corner spheres.

It may be possible to test the theory relatively easily by finding a car with the symptoms, and change the front spheres (at least temporarily) for some with softer rebound settings. The trick would be in identifying such spheres. Where does Sticky park his car? I actually suspect that HA3 (not HA3+) spheres would have the softer rebound damping required for this test.

This sounds interesting, I'd be up for testing this if I could find the correct spheres.

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 11 Dec 2017, 15:57

Parked in Somerset, and no, you are not taking stuff off it

Post by **bobins** » 11 Dec 2017, 17:50

I think we're going to struggle to come up with a definitive answer as to why they clonk going over speed bumps as it depends on what clonk is being referred to. One man's clonk might be another man's clunk !

I'm 100% certain that the clonk on mine going over speed bumps was nothing to do with the HA3+ system.... mainly because mine is on steel springs

Post by **GiveMeABreak** » 11 Dec 2017, 17:58

I will get a 'bang' when going over one of those badly finished road drains where they have like a 3+ inch drop - that can be disconcerting as certain speeds - but always been like that and I never bother with it - not so much over speed bumps that I've noticed.

gambler072 · Post by **gambler072** » 11 Dec 2017, 18:35

I'll try to record a banging sound bofore going to a mechanic, and I'll post it so we can compare different bangs and clonks

milleplod · Post by **milleplod** » 11 Dec 2017, 19:21

They're 2 quite different noises. The drop links sound like a light, pattering sort of knock when going over multiple road-surface imperfections, and an occasionally louder, but still lightweight, knock over single smaller holes. The other sound is definitely a bang, enough to make you think 'WTF was that??!' - its not heard at all over road imperfections unless the front wheels fall into a deepish pothole, for example.....or you go over a speed hump that has a quite steep profile on its 'departure' side, again when the wheels drop to the lower surface.

I know what I mean anyway!

Pete

gambler072 · Post by **gambler072** » 11 Dec 2017, 19:30

I'm quite sure I have the second one

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 11 Dec 2017, 20:36

Yet I am quite sure I have neither sound....so what is different between some cars and others ?

gambler072 · Post by **gambler072** » 12 Dec 2017, 08:44

Stickyfinger wrote: ↑11 Dec 2017, 12:22 Easy to check the FRIP joint, it just needs a leaver bar with the wheels on the ground.

With the wheels on the ground or off the ground? I've seen some videos for checking the frip, but each of them had the wheels off the ground. If that's not correct can you explain the procedure?

Stickyfinger · Post by **Stickyfinger** » 12 Dec 2017, 08:47

On the ground, it is lateral movement when the joint is loaded that needs checking (I am told) so a lever bar between the joint and the bottom arm should show if it is worn. Mine did

https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... ower+joint

EDC5 · Post by **EDC5** » 12 Dec 2017, 10:48

Stickyfinger wrote: ↑12 Dec 2017, 08:47 On the ground, it is lateral movement when the joint is loaded that needs checking (I am told) so a lever bar between the joint and the bottom arm should show if it is worn. Mine did

https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... ower+joint

Does a buggered FRIP joint like that affect the handling in any way?

French Car Forum

C5 X7 Hydraulics

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