Peugeot 207 Vti crank no start ongoing issue

[max1]

Follow the revised procedure here on the Diagnostics page:

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=61997

What you can do is trick the car into thinking the door is shut by moving the driver's door locking catch inside the door manually with a screwdriver. The BSI will think the door is closed. That way you can leave the door open instead of opening the window.

It sounds like the immobiliser is not authorising the starting - typical where the starter will spin without starting the engine. Don't keep trying in this situation or it will lock you out for some time if you keep attempting to start it. Follow the procedure exactly with the timings as specified to allow plenty of shut down and reinitialisation time.

You'll see in my post it is essential not to allow the battery cable to accidentally reconnect to the battery terminal during the process!

Ok great thanks for this. Will give it a crack tomorrow.

[xantia_v6]

You don't need to wind the window down during a BSI reset. It is OK to leave the door open during the whole procedure, don't close it until the engine has been started (- or at least attempted).

Is the immobiliser warning light on?

[GiveMeABreak]

I have to disagree with that Mike:- Reason being:

The vehicle’s electrical supply is linked with the requirement of each unit, in relation to the strategies for implementation of the supplies.
The units are supplied either permanently or linked with the waking up of the built-in systems interface.
The waking up of the built-in systems interface is initiated either by action on the high frequency remote control or by the opening of a door or by a remote-controlled wake-up (RCD) action (without turning the ignition key to the ignition position)to permit the activation of certain functions.

Because the door is open, it will prevent the engine ECU (and others on the network) from shutting down properly, which is what we want in this case. Similarly when the battery is connected up again, we want time for the ECUs to reinitialise properly without a triggering event - which it will do if the door is open without the door lock catch being manually shut.

I've read about the door lock recommendation somewhere in an official procedure for this reason, so mentioned it as he can't get the window down.

[myglaren]

He could get someone to sit inside before the battery is reconnected and carry out the boot-up procedure.

I will say that I had to leave my car at work one night when the failing starter flattened the battery.

Locked the door with the key once the battery was out, opened it with the key the following day, left it open and refitted the battery then continued with the procedure.

No other choice in that case and it went OK.

[MikeT]

Was wondering @MikeT how are you? Are you well?

I am one week out of hospital recuperating from major surgery, max.

[max1]

Was wondering @MikeT how are you? Are you well?

I am one week out of hospital recuperating from major surgery, max.

Sorry to hear that Mike, hope you feel better soon mate.

[max1]

Follow the revised procedure here on the Diagnostics page:

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=61997

What you can do is trick the car into thinking the door is shut by moving the driver's door locking catch inside the door manually with a screwdriver. The BSI will think the door is closed. That way you can leave the door open instead of opening the window.

It sounds like the immobiliser is not authorising the starting - typical where the starter will spin without starting the engine. Don't keep trying in this situation or it will lock you out for some time if you keep attempting to start it. Follow the procedure exactly with the timings as specified to allow plenty of shut down and reinitialisation time.

You'll see in my post it is essential not to allow the battery cable to accidentally reconnect to the battery terminal during the process!

I followed your instructions to the letter but it's still not starting. So, it would APPEAR that I need to get the F5FF code cleared, would this make sense i.e it needs to see the code has been cleared before it will allow a start ?

No, no warning lights are on apart from the battery light.

thx

[GiveMeABreak]

Pop your VIN up so I can check out the specific code as it relates yo your car.

[max1]

Pop your VIN up so I can check out the specific code as it relates yo your car.

VF3**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]

thx

[MikeT]

Was wondering @MikeT how are you? Are you well?

I am one week out of hospital recuperating from major surgery, max.

Sorry to hear that Mike, hope you feel better soon mate.

Thanks max, healing's progressing pretty well but I'm not allowed to drive just yet.
Feel free to send me a pm at the end of week if your car still won't start.

[RichardW]

My experience is that the unexpected re-initialisation fault is always there after the battery has been off - it's never caused a no-start situation on mine. You need to get some live data checks to see if it is recognising the key and unlocking the ECU, and then if the ECU can see the engine cranking.

[GiveMeABreak]

Yes F5FF is a common error that can appear after faults are read from the BSI. Just clear it or ignore it.

Again, I can only suggest that you check with PP2000 to see if the engine immobiliser is recognising the key to elimiate the non authorisation of engine starting.

Then the obvious like checking the condition of the fuses with a multimeter, your electrical connections, battery voltage - but do try and do a thorough BSI reset as I suggested - but if the door lock is not manually closed it will keep the network triggered so won't allow the BSI to sleep, so will be a waste of time.

[max1]

Ive done a few BSI resets now strictly following the instructions but no luck. Scanned again but no codes apart from C990 which is the relay for the fog lamp.

I tested for spark & it's good & consistent on each of the 4 coils. Also sprayed some easy start into the air intake past the air filter but no good.

Compression sounds ok when cranking so now I'm thinking it would be good to test ignition timing. Crank shaft signal seems good as I can see 180rpm when cranking. Can anyone give me any advice how to test for ignition timing & what to look for in Digabox ?

Still got this weird 3.3v reference on the ECT sensor though so who knows whats happening there. ECT sensor does seem to read the engine coolant temp ok though (was reading 12c in diagbox yesterday)

thanks for any help

[max1]

Ive done a few BSI resets now strictly following the instructions but no luck. Scanned again but no codes apart from C990 which is the relay for the fog lamp.

I tested for spark & it's good & consistent on each of the 4 coils. Also sprayed some easy start into the air intake past the air filter but no good.

Compression sounds ok when cranking so now I'm thinking it would be good to test ignition timing. Crank shaft signal seems good as I can see 180rpm when cranking. Can anyone give me any advice how to test for ignition timing & what to look for in Digabox ?

Still got this weird 3.3v reference on the ECT sensor though so who knows whats happening there. ECT sensor does seem to read the engine coolant temp ok though (was reading 12c in diagbox yesterday)

thanks for any help

[MikeT]

I've got nothing to offer, max. The low reference voltage alone has me baffled (though that isn't saying much) plus the fact that sending off the ECU to be tested then it coming back as A-OK ie reference voltages passed all tests), followed by it then starting the car as if nothing was wrong in the first place and working reliably ever since all this time is beyond my limited knowledge.

Personally, I would like to delve deeper into understanding this 3.3v reading as I think there's got to be a clue in there somewhere but I'm at a complete dead end otherwise. All I would add is what I would maybe try if it were my car - to play around with substituting fixed resistance values for the ECT, thoroughly test the wiring between it, the ECU and the ground(s) etc and see if anything curious pops up. Maybe remove the ECU yet again, powering it up from another 12v source (as if an alternative feed may somehow reset something internally?) and then try reseating its connectors afterwards and see if it starts working correctly again?