Grrrr Electrics

[Paul-R]

It sounds like you're saying that there's power at one end of the wire (to the bulbholder) at the connector end but not at the bulb end. If that's the case then the wire (or connector itself) is at fault somehow. Trial and error, running a temporary wire to the bulb, all these things can help to narrow down where the fault is.

[doctle]

As you probably know it's difficult to see inside the light without removing it this will probably mean realigning the lights. I'm also slightly puzzled why both fog lights aren't working? Surely the wiring in both lights wouldn't be dodgy? I don't need them but, like hair, it would be nice to have them!

[doctle]

I cleaned the pins on the light cluster with a dremel there's .01v coming to the bulbs. I tried to connect a wire to the pin for the fog light on each side nothing happened. If I connect a wire to the spade on the bulb the light works so it isn't an earth problem. I put 3 bulbs into the clock, wired in series to the glove box light and that part works but LED bulb gives a slight bloom but it works and was a cheap fix!

[doctle]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gn7pstk6wuige ... D.jpg?dl=0

[Paul-R]

All I can do is repeat that if there's the correct voltage at the beginning of the wire at the connector but not at the end then the fault has to be in that stretch somewhere.

Just one small point. When you're measuring the voltages are you using the same earth point for the multimeter?

[Peter.N.]

Measure the resistance from the live connection on the bulb and the appropriate connection on the connector, it should near enough zero, if it isn't you either have a poor connection on the connector or the terminal at the lamp end or possibly the wire is broken internally, and as Paul says use the same earth point for all your readings.

Peter

[RichardW]

Are you talking front or rear lamps here?

Somewhat confused as you are talking about 'clusters' whereas the fogs are singly in the front bumper, but also re-aligning the lights which wouldn't be required for the rears....?

You are testing with the main lights on?

You were saying you had power at the bulbs, but your last post implies that you haven't (as only 0.1V). Could be possibly a fault with the underbonnet fuse box (BSM), or if the COM unit has been changed, then wrong one has been fitted? If you've got Diagbox then you should be able to test the lights by turning on from there, and checking that the BSM is getting the right message.

[doctle]

Are you talking front or rear lamps here?

Somewhat confused as you are talking about 'clusters' whereas the fogs are singly in the front bumper, but also re-aligning the lights which wouldn't be required for the rears....?

You are testing with the main lights on?

You were saying you had power at the bulbs, but your last post implies that you haven't (as only 0.1V). Could be possibly a fault with the underbonnet fuse box (BSM), or if the COM unit has been changed, then wrong one has been fitted? If you've got Diagbox then you should be able to test the lights by turning on from there, and checking that the BSM is getting the right message.

The front cluster of lights has the fogs built into it. I have power at plug coming to the rear of the light about 11.5volts on both sides engine off. When I connect the plug to the lights I have minimal current at the wire going to the bulb. If a connect a wire to the battery and the bulbs they both work. I also connected a small cable to the metal frame inside the lights and earthed it to the battery it made no difference, usually I use the turbo banjo bolt as an earthing point.

[doctle]

Are you talking front or rear lamps here?

Somewhat confused as you are talking about 'clusters' whereas the fogs are singly in the front bumper, but also re-aligning the lights which wouldn't be required for the rears....?

You are testing with the main lights on?

You were saying you had power at the bulbs, but your last post implies that you haven't (as only 0.1V). Could be possibly a fault with the underbonnet fuse box (BSM), or if the COM unit has been changed, then wrong one has been fitted? If you've got Diagbox then you should be able to test the lights by turning on from there, and checking that the BSM is getting the right message.

Hi Richard,
I have 11.5v at the plugs at the back of the lights pin#2 on the right only has power when the little green fog light warning is on the dash. when the plug is connected to each light thats when I get minimal power at the wire going to the bulb. I cleaned the pins on the connector with a dremel made no difference neither did connecting a wire from the battery to the pin make a difference. I know I could run a wire from the plug through a grommet on the back cover into the fog light but the factory method is neater!

[Peter.N.]

Do you still have 11.5 volts when the connector is plugged in?

Peter

[doctle]

Do you still have 11.5 volts when the connector is plugged in?

Peter

Thats something I will check if it ever stops raining!

[Peter.N.]

If the voltage drops when its connected the fault will be further up the wiring.

Peter

[doctle]

14.2 v plugs connected engine running

[Peter.N.]

The fault must be between the connector and the lamp, can you run a lead between the two.

Peter

[doctle]

The fault must be between the connector and the lamp, can you run a lead between the two.

Peter

Yes tried that nothing between them Im thinking it must be the socket ?