GiveMeABreak wrote: ↑19 Sep 2017, 22:33 Agreed - not quite as bad as this IOS 11 update, curse Apple.
Hope you wont burn 4 hours worth of diesel updating it
Okay, so we should be definitely okay with a 2012 door lock then?
Moderator: RichardW
GiveMeABreak wrote: ↑19 Sep 2017, 22:33 Agreed - not quite as bad as this IOS 11 update, curse Apple.
bobins wrote: ↑19 Sep 2017, 22:44
It might be a real PITA to do, but I think I'd be tempted to test for voltage via the back of the plug that goes into the lock before I opted for a replacement lock. Presumably there'd be sufficient voltage for long enough to be able to see if the lock mechanism is getting energised via a simple test meter ? Confirming whether there's a signal voltage there might be a little more tricky unless you've got something slightly more elaborate than a simple test meter ? Wonder if a Lexia / Diagbox would be able to shed more light ? Presumably it'd be capable of an independent 'actuator test' on the locks ?
EDC5 wrote: ↑19 Sep 2017, 22:52
The locks work fine, its just the switch that informs the BSI that the drivers door has opened (interior light, seat easy entry position and the unlocking of the doors when one door is opened) that works maybe 25% of the time. If I open and close the door a few times then it will eventually work but I don't want to look like a tit in the car park
bobins wrote: ↑19 Sep 2017, 23:02EDC5 wrote: ↑19 Sep 2017, 22:52
The locks work fine, its just the switch that informs the BSI that the drivers door has opened (interior light, seat easy entry position and the unlocking of the doors when one door is opened) that works maybe 25% of the time. If I open and close the door a few times then it will eventually work but I don't want to look like a tit in the car park
So it could still be the cabling at fault and not the switch ? Hence my comment about testing for a signal voltage.