307 wishbone change

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RichardW
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Re: 307 wishbone change

Post by RichardW »

You can do the belt without disconnecting the exhaust.

For the exhaust you need a pair of these: exhaust pliers

Image
Richard W
ekjdm14
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My Cars: '95 Xantia 1.9D automatic - 118k one of two? remaining
'97 306 1.6 XS, 24k, The ex-Haynes "Max Power" display car. Bought after being written off & stripped, now being rebuilt without the wide body
('96 ZX 1.9TD SX, ??k roller due to collect at weekend)
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Re: 307 wishbone change

Post by ekjdm14 »

Oops, I'm sure it's something we've all done before (that and inadvertently pulling the left driveshaft out of the gearbox & spilling that oil everywhere! :D )

10w40 low SAPS (low ash?) I believe is the recommendation for engine oil. As far as those exhaust clamps go, there was a "knack" that I managed to get while messing with the cat on ours (plain cat no DPF thankfully on the '02 206) but can't fully recall now. Think it was pretty much loosen and whack with an extension bar to remove & then stretch them open a bit further for refitting, place the cat joint onto the turbo & wedge it there with wood & a trolley jack & then fiddle the clamp into place/tighten. I'm told there is a tool for them that makes things a lot easier, but I don't mess with them often enough to make it worth buying one.

As long as the turbo spins freely with little axial or radial play (there should be a tiny amount felt, as this would be taken up by oil under pressure in running conditions) and there's no evidence of the oil seals having failed (a small misting of oil on the inlet side is normal, heavier deposits or noticeable blue smoke when running point to trouble) then it ought to be worth cleaning/freeing up the WG if it's a bit sticky.

I'm not sure how loud the screaming was/is, or what conditions it was under but if it was a loud shrieking/whining under acceleration then it can be caused by a split pipe or leaking joint. A prime suspect for rubbing through on the 1.4HDi is the first rubber hose on the pressure side of the turbo, located just to the left (looking from the front of the car as you'd work on it) of the oil filler cap. It seems to rub on it's underside & was very thin on our 206. Had to remove it to see properly though.

As for dropping the exhaust to do the timing belt, I don't *think* I did on the 206 but again we don't have a DPF so that may be the difference, although it's entirely possible that I did have to & don't remember as it's a while ago. Probably safer for the exhaust system if it is disconnected so you can jack the engine up/down to get better access to bits without straining it needlessly. (engine mount does need to come out of the way for sure)
'95 Xantia LX 1.9D-auto, Black, 118k
'97 306 XS 1.6i, Blaze Yellow, 24k
'96 ZX SX 1.9TD rolling shell, White, ??k
ekjdm14
(Donor 2020)
Posts: 1824
Joined: 19 Jan 2015, 17:42
Location: Manchester
My Cars: '95 Xantia 1.9D automatic - 118k one of two? remaining
'97 306 1.6 XS, 24k, The ex-Haynes "Max Power" display car. Bought after being written off & stripped, now being rebuilt without the wide body
('96 ZX 1.9TD SX, ??k roller due to collect at weekend)
x 214

Re: 307 wishbone change

Post by ekjdm14 »

Richard beat me to it on the tool & not dropping the exhaust lol
'95 Xantia LX 1.9D-auto, Black, 118k
'97 306 XS 1.6i, Blaze Yellow, 24k
'96 ZX SX 1.9TD rolling shell, White, ??k
doctle
Posts: 947
Joined: 16 Oct 2014, 12:17
Location: Meath Ireland
My Cars: 2008 Laguna 1.5 DCi
x 235

Re: 307 wishbone change

Post by doctle »

RichardW wrote:You can do the belt without disconnecting the exhaust.

For the exhaust you need a pair of these: exhaust pliers

Image


Thanks mate I lost more than 9 quids worth of skin in the bottom clamp and at least 50.00 on the top one
Oh buggle
doctle
Posts: 947
Joined: 16 Oct 2014, 12:17
Location: Meath Ireland
My Cars: 2008 Laguna 1.5 DCi
x 235

Re: 307 wishbone change

Post by doctle »

ekjdm14 wrote:Oops, I'm sure it's something we've all done before (that and inadvertently pulling the left driveshaft out of the gearbox & spilling that oil everywhere! :D )

10w40 low SAPS (low ash?) I believe is the recommendation for engine oil. As far as those exhaust clamps go, there was a "knack" that I managed to get while messing with the cat on ours (plain cat no DPF thankfully on the '02 206) but can't fully recall now. Think it was pretty much loosen and whack with an extension bar to remove & then stretch them open a bit further for refitting, place the cat joint onto the turbo & wedge it there with wood & a trolley jack & then fiddle the clamp into place/tighten. I'm told there is a tool for them that makes things a lot easier, but I don't mess with them often enough to make it worth buying one.

As long as the turbo spins freely with little axial or radial play (there should be a tiny amount felt, as this would be taken up by oil under pressure in running conditions) and there's no evidence of the oil seals having failed (a small misting of oil on the inlet side is normal, heavier deposits or noticeable blue smoke when running point to trouble) then it ought to be worth cleaning/freeing up the WG if it's a bit sticky.

I'm not sure how loud the screaming was/is, or what conditions it was under but if it was a loud shrieking/whining under acceleration then it can be caused by a split pipe or leaking joint. A prime suspect for rubbing through on the 1.4HDi is the first rubber hose on the pressure side of the turbo, located just to the left (looking from the front of the car as you'd work on it) of the oil filler cap. It seems to rub on it's underside & was very thin on our 206. Had to remove it to see properly though.

As for dropping the exhaust to do the timing belt, I don't *think* I did on the 206 but again we don't have a DPF so that may be the difference, although it's entirely possible that I did have to & don't remember as it's a while ago. Probably safer for the exhaust system if it is disconnected so you can jack the engine up/down to get better access to bits without straining it needlessly. (engine mount does need to come out of the way for sure)


All good info thank you! The car is fine now there was a loud screech like a belt makes over a seized alternator pulley and no boost. To me the wastegate looks like its open a couple of mm and there's loads of crud. Could there be a problem with the actuator? It doesn't matter too much now I suppose but if it works or could be easily repaired it's nice to have a spare everything except for a wife
Oh buggle
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