Toolbag Tales-Homemade and improvised tools

[bobins]

So.... what to do ?
I wanted to fit front fog lamps to my hairdryer as I always think it looks somewhat naff having the black plastic blanking covers where the fog lamps should be on them. No problem - I got a set of second hand Jagwarrrr F-Type front fog lamps as they're the same as the MX5 ones, but a hell of a lot cheaper second hand.
I procured a used MX5 double fog lamp switch (front/rear) which goes into the same hole as the old single position rocker one.

MX5 fog switch

The only issue was that one of the switches is designed to latch, and one not. No problem, the non-latching bit can be overcome with more wiring and relays....... But I'm a cheapskate
So...... out with the screwdriver.

Fog switch internals

Take both switches out and see what makes them tick.

Here's the latching one. The two components more or less in the middle of the switch are what make it latch - a small spring with a bent bit of wire resting on it, and another spring sticking out from the end. I'm sure you're ahead of me here

Switch latching bit

The non-latching switch already had the spring recess and wire pivot hole molded in, so it was just a case of..........
One small butchered spring, and one paperclip that gave its life so something else could work later, and I'd replicated the latching mechanism in the non-latching switch. Result !

[mickthemaverick]

So.... what to do ?
I wanted to fit front fog lamps to my hairdryer as I always think it looks somewhat naff having the black plastic blanking covers where the fog lamps should be on them. No problem - I got a set of second hand Jagwarrrr F-Type front fog lamps as they're the same as the MX5 ones, but a hell of a lot cheaper second hand.
I procured a used MX5 double fog lamp switch (front/rear) which goes into the same hole as the old single position rocker one.

I note there is no tell tale on the rear light part of that switch bobins, so I assume you are fitting an aux reminder somewhere? After all having made it latching it wont go off with the lights and so come on whenever you put on the headlights unless you have remembered to switch it off. Don't want to join the mindless moron group that drive around with fog lights blazing on bright rainy days now do we?

[CitroJim]

Excellent work Bobbins I must say the MX5, in MK1 guise at least, has a rather nice dash. The MX5 living with me has a bad case of fading on the wood trim though... Not sure if the wood is real or fake? I suspect it's the former...

[bobins]

Already taken care of - I've simply transferred the wiring from the old rear switch to the new switch which incorporates wiring to the dash rear fog warning lamp. One of the switches will illuminate its own internal lamp, and the other will light the dash light.

[mickthemaverick]

Already taken care of - I've simply transferred the wiring from the old rear switch to the new switch which incorporates wiring to the dash rear fog warning lamp. One of the switches will illuminate its own internal lamp, and the other will light the dash light.

Excellent, well done that man!!

[NewcastleFalcon]

Nice dash, new lights I can think of at least 2 FCF threads which would be a welcome home for images of the finished job. Nice arty night-time shots please.

Regards Neil

[NewcastleFalcon]

From the Heath Robinson stable of improvised tools

with tupppence for wood and strings
you can have your own set of....
dormer window painting tools

Regards Neil

[myglaren]

[CitroJim]

Here's my special tool for getting at the 10mm cooling fan motor fixing nuts on a Xantia without needing to remove the rads and A/C condenser...

Having a 13mm hex on the end means a ratchet spanner can be used and that makes the job even easier...

[CitroenCrazy]

The later ones had this kind of inverted Torx drive fasteners, which stumped me completely when I was trying to avoid stripping down the front of the car.

[Dormouse]

In reply to Myglaren's sump plug, I was taught to tighten bolts up until they break and then turn them back half a turn - followed by a clip round the ear. The inverted torx heads respond to a pair of mini vice grips with a vee notch in the middle of both jaws.

[mickthemaverick]

The inverted torx heads respond to a pair of mini vice grips with a vee notch in the middle of both jaws.

I prefer to use my torx sockets!! The thought of any sort of grips used on bolt heads fills me with terror!!

[Dormouse]

It did for me too at the time. But I needed the screws out, I didn't have the luxury of my full workshop toolkit and it was a toss up between the mini vice grips and other forms of brute force and ignorance. I cut screw driver slots in the screws to aid putting them back in. PS you really should also refit proper replacement screws but the originals went back in and were still there 3 years later when the rally car was sold.

[NewcastleFalcon]

Here's my special tool for getting at the 10mm cooling fan motor fixing nuts on a Xantia without needing to remove the rads and A/C condenser...



Having a 13mm hex on the end means a ratchet spanner can be used and that makes the job even easier...

Newcomers to the FCF, I have just had a flick through this thread looking to see if I had posted up my version of Jims tool. Its an excellent thread if I say so myself, If anyone has anything to add please do.

So my version originally was a double sided sump plug removal tool. Removed the smaller 8mm side square with a hacksaw and that left a 19mm body, and the remaining end was just a square end which fits all sockets.

It came to life to remove the centre inlet manifold bolt on a Xantia, 13mm if I recall right and just a plain hex head bolt, where the access was awkward. I have a more slender version fashioned out of a bolt with a grinder.


Here it is proving its worth with some ridiculously small sockets and rusted fittings


Regards Neil

[Dormouse]

I have just read the thread through and I am so happy that ingenuity and invention is alive and kicking and that so many people are passing on their tips. On one thread about removing steering locks. I always used a punch and hammered the edge of the domed shoulder until the threads freed. I have used all sorts of methods to do this and punching the screws loose is best. I found that a square shanked punch I made up with a "diamond" sloped face edge bit in better and more securely than a round cone tipped taper punch. That was 35 years ago and I still use this punch today - most recently, removing steering locks on electric power steering conversion for a Talbot motorhome. You don't need a big hammer just a decent blow to get the threads free.