Peug.Partner 1,9D DW8 WJY running REALLY rough.

[Torben]

This could be caused by the timing solenoid on the pump being broken, but it would be worth checking the circuits that control the timing first.If you look at the engine ECU you will see two plugs on top one black and one brown.The checks are done from the black one.The first one to check is the needle lift sensor.Follow the sensor wire back to its two pin connector and unplug the connector.Then check continuity from terminal one of that connector to terminal J2 on the ECU plug.Then check continuity from terminal 2 to terminal K3 on the ECU plug.If these choout ok then the wiring to the needle lift sensor is ok.
To check the timing solenoid wiring you need to unplug the two pin black connector on the side of the fuel pump.You can see it at the start of your video.You need continuity here from terminal 2 to terminal F4 on the ECU plug.Finally check you have 12 volts at terminal one of the solenoid connector with ignition on.
I have known these wires break internally, especially the ones from the needle lift sensor.
If all the wiring checks out ok it could be the timing solenoid.Maybe you could get hold of a used one to check.

Okay, did check the needle lift sensor, one wire is good, and the other is not good, no beeeeb on multimeter.
But, im not sure that i've measured on the correct pin in ecu plug, so i'll have my father in law doing the checks that you describe.
Im not sure why the cable suddenly is bad, it must be during engine pulling that i broke it, othervise i dont see why it is bad: the engine was running Real fine before clutch exploded.
I suspect there is more defects than just a cable, so is not keen on 'part out' (new electrical harness) and then the engine still runs bad after that.

[Torben]

Sorry for posting too much.
I did try and pull needle lift sensor during iddling, and nothing changed. One should think If it works that should effect running.
Is it normal to have no CEL If needle lift sensor cable is bad and therefore doesnt supply signal to ecu?

[Torben]

Ok did some testing, father in law thinks needle lift sensor is ok, he measured with ingnition on, ca 5 volt or something. It does not make sense to me its not doing anything when desconnected during iddling.
We didnt manage to find any continuity between any terminal near pump to ecu plug. We only found terminals with 3 wires inside.
I dont think changing the solenoid valve is that easy a job either? I'll have to chissel the metal of around the valve on the pump to get access, dont i?
Timing is not checked. It was 100 % at point when i installed the engine 2 months Ago.

[artdjones]

It still sounds to me like the needle lift sensor wiring.You could get 5v on the supply wire but if the other wire is broken then no signal gets back to the ecu so timing won't be controlled.The timing solenoid is on the bottom front of the pump.It has a rubber cover over it held on by a cable tie.Follow the wire that comes out of it to the plug.
If you want to change it it screws out of the pump body.
But if you only have continuity on one wire from the needle lift sensor it sounds like a break in that wire to me.

[Torben]

It still sounds to me like the needle lift sensor wiring.You could get 5v on the supply wire but if the other wire is broken then no signal gets back to the ecu so timing won't be controlled.The timing solenoid is on the bottom front of the pump.It has a rubber cover over it held on by a cable tie.Follow the wire that comes out of it to the plug.
If you want to change it it screws out of the pump body.
But if you only have continuity on one wire from the needle lift sensor it sounds like a break in that wire to me.

Yeah probably broke it during engine hauling.
I've got some high frequncy equiptment to test/find the correct wire, so will find the dead wire and solder a new one with crimp hose. I'll do that before i change any more parts. Its been a money pit for too long now.
Thanks for the knowledge.