DW8 cam belt

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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by Paul-R »

CitroJim wrote:I've used the 'starter motor' method to undo the crank bolt on almost every XUD I've ever done a belt on and always without issue...
Going further back I've used that method on an Austin Montego, various MGBs and various Midgets/Sprites.

It's almost a textbook operation.
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by lexi »

Don't anybody, ever, tell me again that these things are easy/cheap to work on.
You should have listened to me. I could have told you they were a complete swine to work on. :lol:
Be afraid when people tell you to "whip" out the starter or glowplugs or anything that most certainly does not whip off, out or anything else!

These jobs are only ok, once you have done them. During the process, they would make a Bishop kick in stained glass windows! :-D
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by moizeau »

Whenever I do a cam belt, after locking off the cam and pump ( I don't do the crank) I paint mark the cam, crank and pump pulleys making sure the belt gets marked too. Take the belt off and transfer the marks to the new belt. Fit the new belt lining up the marks, in theory nothing can go wrong. Obviously, when the engine is rotated the marks are no longer any use, Just belt and braces and a very easier method that gives you piece of mind that everything is correct (or at least the same as it as before!)
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by van ordinaire »

ekjdm14 wrote:
with the van coming up to 170k it's extremely unlikely - If I have to do another belt at 220k I'll be so chuffed I won't mind that bit.
I guess you're speaking more of bodywork worries than anything of a mechanical nature, engine/box should walk that given proper oil/filter intervals ;)
Actually, front doors & bonnet aside, as scabby as it looks, it's quite sound (even the MoT tester was impressed!) - I was thinking more of how long it'd take to do another 50k (although, it is only about 5 years, thinking about it).
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by van ordinaire »

CitroJim wrote:Van, honestly it's not as bad as it sounds...

I've used the 'starter motor' method to undo the crank bolt on almost every XUD I've ever done a belt on and always without issue...

I must say the DW8/XUD is possibly the hardest of the PSA engine belts. I reckon the V6 is easier...
Jim, I've no doubt that you're only trying to encourage, but "Not as bad", no, worse: seems I won't even know what tools I'll need 'til I've started taking it apart. I know the 1st time doing a job is always the worst but I've only ever done a belt once, on a BMW 323 (although I once changed the head on a slant 4 Vauxhall) but it doesn't prepare me for this.

I've not often had to remove a crank bolt either (I think the last time was to replace the harmonic balancer on a Chevy V8) but the only one that defeated me was that Triumph. But I'm sure I read somewhere that one of the differences between the XUD & DW8 is the later engine didn't have a centre bolt, but 4 smaller ones.
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by van ordinaire »

lexi wrote:
Don't anybody, ever, tell me again that these things are easy/cheap to work on.
You should have listened to me. I could have told you they were a complete swine to work on. :lol:
Be afraid when people tell you to "whip" out the starter or glowplugs or anything that most certainly does not whip off, out or anything else!

These jobs are only ok, once you have done them. During the process, they would make a Bishop kick in stained glass windows! :-D
You did? When? I remember having similar doubts about ever being able to change the o/s drive shaft, don't know how many times I crossed the "this is impossible" threshold but you lot got me through that. Oh - & the trackrods, now that WAS (last Christmas's) fun - & I was off-line then!
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by CitroJim »

van ordinaire wrote:But I'm sure I read somewhere that one of the differences between the XUD & DW8 is the later engine didn't have a centre bolt, but 4 smaller ones.
Those with the four smaller bolts are so easy.. The pulley is in two halves. The centre is retained by a the (tight) crank blot but you don't need to touch it... Just pop out the four small bolts and separate the pulley. That's all you need to do...

Point taken on all the other points... There's nothing worse than starting a job only to find you need a tool you don't have. Such needs cannot be predicted...

Many is the time I've had to make an emergency run to a supplier of automotive tools...
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by top drive »

Removing crank pulley.

Remove the flywheel plate (2 * 13mm bolts and a 10mm holdin the oil pipe to bracket. )

Lock flywheel using flywheel locking plate.

Do not have any of the other pins In at this point

Use 900mm breaker bar and fit to bolt with the end as close to floor as possible then pull up to the bumper.

Job done.
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by top drive »

Tools needed

10-11-13 -16 -17- 22mmsockets

5mm hex

A piece of 8mm square rod (from a door handle inside)

8 - -6 mm drill bits to lock cam and pump pulleys and a 2mm for the crank shaft.

Flywheel locking tool ( can make one out a bit of angle)

About 400mm of 3/16 brake pipe bent into shape to go in flywheel hole behind starter

And I used a ruler to measure the slack in belt before I started - set it much higher turned engine 8 times then slackened it off to slightly tighter than it was set at when I took it off as I dont have a seem tension measuring tool.

You'll need a t50 torx for taking engine mount off and you support the engine via a trolly jack with a slab of wood on top to spread load.

Dont bother removing inner wheel arch - not needed

The process is just about being methodical not so many propitiatory tools required.
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by lexi »

The bolt on my pulley crank bolt. Home made tooth gear to lock flywheel. I put a hardened bolt in the hole as well. One 900MM breaker bar. No way.
It took my 5ft scaffy pole and 18stone on it to shift it. Even then it had to be forced most of the way out. There is always an odd car that doesn't play ball.
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by top drive »

Sounds like someone had shares In Henkel /loctite
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by van ordinaire »

CitroJim wrote:
van ordinaire wrote:But I'm sure I read somewhere that one of the differences between the XUD & DW8 is the later engine didn't have a centre bolt, but 4 smaller ones.
Those with the four smaller bolts are so easy.. The pulley is in two halves. The centre is retained by a the (tight) crank blot but you don't need to touch it... Just pop out the four small bolts and separate the pulley. That's all you need to do...

Point taken on all the other points... There's nothing worse than starting a job only to find you need a tool you don't have. Such needs cannot be predicted...

Many is the time I've had to make an emergency run to a supplier of automotive tools...
Must say the only time I've found myself in that position was replacing the diff out-put bearings on an XJ40 - but the prob. here is they're not tools that can readily be purchased - & it's over Christmas!
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by uncle buck »

You don't need any special tools, a couple of drill bits / bolts and a bottle of tipex will do the job.

If you don't have the 4 bolt crank pulley getting the big centre bolt loose is tricky if you don't have an impact gun but the breaker bar and starter motor trick works fine.
Get the engine hot and the bolt will be warm and it will come out that bit easier.



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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by elma »

It's the thread lock that makes it such a bugger, bit of heat works wonders. If you've an impact gun then it's just another bolt to undo. If not the starter motor thing works fine, always leaves me nervous until it's done that way.
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Re: DW8 cam belt

Post by CitroJim »

Loctite is essential... I've seen the result of that bolt working loose...
Jim

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