Xantia HDI rear spheres?

[elma]

They can be really hard to get off, especially if they've been overtightened and left on for ages. As long as you do yours hand tight they shouldn't be so bad next time.

You can have the hydraulics assist you a bit by cracking the spheres off with the engine running and the suspension not depressurised. I think I used to do that with suspension on high but I don't remember. Soon as they are cracked off depressurise though or it'll be an almighty mess.

[white exec]

Hydraurincage isn't a lot more expensive than the equivalent amount of LHM, and isn't just a 'quick cleaner' that you put in and then ditch almost immediately. You actually run the car on it for a recommended 3000 miles (some folk do 5000). It just depends whether you want a really clean system, or not, for less than the price of a tankful of fuel.

[HDI]

They can be really hard to get off, especially if they've been overtightened and left on for ages. As long as you do yours hand tight they shouldn't be so bad next time.

Copy that, I'm installing them hand tight.

[CitroJim]

hand-tight is all they need but they do seem to get tight(er) over time...

All ones on my Activa, just hand-tightening them, are normally easy enough to remove again but they definitely get tighter than the original hand-tight!

[HDI]

These were hand tight, for the incredible hulk!

[Hell Razor5543]

One thing I would suggest is to, every six months or so, undo them slightly (with the car properly supported), and then do them back up hand tight (the only exception would be the anti sink sphere). This makes it easier to replace them when the time comes, as they don't need Samson to remove them. Something that has been suggested (and which I did on my silver Xantia) is to use one of the old large O rings on the anti sink sphere, where it screws onto the bracket. That way it should not rust in place, and be difficult to remove (as the bracket is not very strong).

[HDI]

Still having issues with the rear suspension. The front is fine, responds to the height lever and maintains the correct ride height. The rear won't maintain the correct ride height, only changes height either to max or minimum via the height lever. When I juggle the height lever to get a correct ride height the ride quality is normal. The plastic link is in place and the AR bar connection is tight. So, how does the rear suspension system work, in relation to the centre sphere and the front system? Is the height corrector the only thing that controls or affects ride height? The centre spehere is the only one I haven't changed, yet.

[CitroJim]

This is a symptom of the rear height corrector mechanism being seized - the linkage in the cradle that transmits the movement form the ARB to the height corrector proper via the 'dog bone'.

The fact the height is adjustable via the lever shows the hydraulic part of the height corrector is fine...

The height lever and the link from the ARB via the 'dog bone' uses separate mechanisms and linkage sets within the cradle.

There are some guides on here on how to overhaul the cradle and linkages but a study of how the linkages within the cradle work will reveal all... I expect the pivot is seized... A common enough issue if the corrector cradle and mechanism is not kept adequately lubricated...

This is a good guide - although for the front one, the rear is very similar and functionality identical:

https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... 19&t=27122

It will be nothing to do with the centre sphere...

[HDI]

Thanks Jim, I'll delve into the height corrector then! That whole mechanism was devoid of any lubrication, so despite me dousing it with spray grease it seems it hasn't responded

[HDI]

Just a thought. If the height corrector is stuck, wouldn't that cause the plastic link (dog bone) to pop off?

[CitroJim]

No, often they don't if they have been very dry for a while...

Basically, if you get lots of lube (WD-40 initially can be effective here) in and disconnect everything so that it can be 'worked' back and forth easily over its whole travel it may well soon ease up... In operation it's extent of travel is quite small - a small movement of the corrector makes a big difference in height...

Once the mechanism is really free and easy, lube it well with spray grease.

You may need to adjust the ride height once everything is nice and free again...

[CitroJim]

Just a thought. If the height corrector is stuck, wouldn't that cause the plastic link (dog bone) to pop off?

Not necessarily as there's enough 'give' in the linkages and as said in my earlier reply, the absolute movements are really quite tiny...

[HDI]

Well I finally found the problem! The lever clamped to the anti roll bar has snapped due to corrosion! I did check that initially but it seemed ok, it must have been partially broken and not directing force to the plastic link. When I checked again today, in an effort to finally sort the problem out, the plastic link was just floating about! The height corrector seems free, I can move it slightly against the spring pressure. So now it's a case of removing the AR bar lever from my crashed donor Xantia to fit to my daily driver! Setting ride height should be fun..........not! Bloody thing!

[Hell Razor5543]

It could be worth taking off the height corrector and giving it a thorough servicing, as well as making sure all of the levers are cleaned, greased, and are free to move. CitroJim has a detailed walk-through on how to do this;

http://www.eastment.net/hcrefurb/index.htm

[HDI]

Thanks for that. I'd like to do that but I just don't have the time available, just hope it works when reconnected! I might pull the one off the donor car, service it and keep it in stock for as and when it's needed.