Hi Folks... I'm still wrestling (sometimes literally) with an incredibly harsh ride on my VSX xantia.
I've replaced all six suspension spheres + antisink
Ride was better for the first drive, then just as bad. A Citaerobics session later and the ride was better, then quickly deteriorated again and now Citaerobics makes little difference...
Car currently has Hydraflush in and the filters are nice and clean
But the ride is terrible, particularly at the back. But the rear end gives plenty under pressure when stationary, so this points to air in the system.... Does that sound right? If so where are the common air leaks???? I can't find any fluid leaks anywhere.
Help - Diagnosing & finding hydraulic air leak
Moderator: RichardW
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DarkendViper
- Posts: 98
- Joined: 03 Jan 2004, 22:18
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by DarkendViper</i>
Have you tried bleeding the rear brakes and the bled screw near the acculmator? That would be my first try.
Have a look at the suction hose from hydraulic pump to the resovoir. People say the ends can go hard and crack allowing air in.
Ste
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I haven't yet bled the rear brakes. That's next on the list when we actually get some dry weather, although last time I tried to get one of the rear wheels off it wouldn't shift.... Hmmmm.
I have released the bleed screw on the accumulator, but my understanding was that the accumulator was self bleeding.... although thinking about that I don't know how that would work... so maybe not.
The inlet pipe on the pump looks ok as far as I can tell, although if I don't get anywhere I may replace this anyway as it's not expensive.
Have you tried bleeding the rear brakes and the bled screw near the acculmator? That would be my first try.
Have a look at the suction hose from hydraulic pump to the resovoir. People say the ends can go hard and crack allowing air in.
Ste
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I haven't yet bled the rear brakes. That's next on the list when we actually get some dry weather, although last time I tried to get one of the rear wheels off it wouldn't shift.... Hmmmm.
I have released the bleed screw on the accumulator, but my understanding was that the accumulator was self bleeding.... although thinking about that I don't know how that would work... so maybe not.
The inlet pipe on the pump looks ok as far as I can tell, although if I don't get anywhere I may replace this anyway as it's not expensive.
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DarkendViper
- Posts: 98
- Joined: 03 Jan 2004, 22:18
- Location:
- My Cars:
Each brake caliper definately has a bleed screw.
- but air here would not detoriate suspension - unless it's foolish amounts throughout the fluid ways thru the brake valve.
The pressure regulator "bleed screw" is only a pressure relief valve - not an air bleed screw - as the regulator is constantly bled by the running pump between regulator charge cycles (tick sounds).
The Citaerobics should be done correct - i.e. using lowest & highest possible settings on the height - and allow for height to 100% settle on each setting.
If the problem persists - with new spheres all around - it's more than likely that the pump takes in air thru it's feed hose.
Also the pump itself could have a leak on the intake side.
The pressure lines is never under vacuum anywhere to take in air - only the pump can do this on suction side.
Also there is a possibility the HA system plays up - keeps sticking in hard mode at lo speed. It's not purely electric controlled. The axle center valves are hydraulic valves - exposed to mechanical problems like any other hydraulic valves in the system.
Hold your breath and give the Hydracleanse some mileage to clean the system. If it does not do it's magic at end of approx 3Kmiles working - then more serious problems should be considered.
- but air here would not detoriate suspension - unless it's foolish amounts throughout the fluid ways thru the brake valve.
The pressure regulator "bleed screw" is only a pressure relief valve - not an air bleed screw - as the regulator is constantly bled by the running pump between regulator charge cycles (tick sounds).
The Citaerobics should be done correct - i.e. using lowest & highest possible settings on the height - and allow for height to 100% settle on each setting.
If the problem persists - with new spheres all around - it's more than likely that the pump takes in air thru it's feed hose.
Also the pump itself could have a leak on the intake side.
The pressure lines is never under vacuum anywhere to take in air - only the pump can do this on suction side.
Also there is a possibility the HA system plays up - keeps sticking in hard mode at lo speed. It's not purely electric controlled. The axle center valves are hydraulic valves - exposed to mechanical problems like any other hydraulic valves in the system.
Hold your breath and give the Hydracleanse some mileage to clean the system. If it does not do it's magic at end of approx 3Kmiles working - then more serious problems should be considered.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by AndersDK</i>
Hold your breath and give the Hydracleanse some mileage to clean the system. If it does not do it's magic at end of approx 3Kmiles working - then more serious problems should be considered.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Thanks for the benfit of your wisdom Anders. The flushing fluid has been in for about 1,200 miles so far and hasn't brought anything too unpleasant through. I think I'll try replacing the pipe from the reservoir to the pump and see if that makes any difference.
As far as I can tell the Hydractive system is working correctly. Certainly things get worse if I disconnect the ECU, and suspension is softer to the touch after opening a door and activating the valves.
Hold your breath and give the Hydracleanse some mileage to clean the system. If it does not do it's magic at end of approx 3Kmiles working - then more serious problems should be considered.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Thanks for the benfit of your wisdom Anders. The flushing fluid has been in for about 1,200 miles so far and hasn't brought anything too unpleasant through. I think I'll try replacing the pipe from the reservoir to the pump and see if that makes any difference.
As far as I can tell the Hydractive system is working correctly. Certainly things get worse if I disconnect the ECU, and suspension is softer to the touch after opening a door and activating the valves.