Peugeot 308 CC - Falling apart now?

[Paul-R]

Another one for bump stop. When I was messing around with our old Xsara estate car I recollect there being two types: a larger spongy orange one and a smaller, harder black one. These were fitted across a wide range of PSA cars and, IIRC, I got one off Xsara Picasso.

[xantia_v6]

Yes, it looks like it may be the rubber bush inside #3
. Or maybe part of the bump stop.

I will inspect more closely tomorrow.

[xantia_v6]

A mixed bag today.

I went to remove a rear wheel and the locking bolt key kept slipping off the bolt. Inspection shows that one of the hardened pins in the key has been broken off. I had 2 new front tyres fitted last week and the fitter Didi not mention anything... But it could equally be the (different company) fitter who replaced 2 rear tyres last year.

So I jacked up the rear of the car anyway, and with the wheels dangling it is possible to remove the top shock mounts, but they had no play and no other obvious fault.

I then looked for anything else loose under the car, and noticed that if I slapped one of the under-floor diagonal braces with my hand, I could produce a metallic rattle that sounded a bit familiar.

Where the 2 main (of 6) bracing bars cross under the centre of the car, they are not fastened together, but are separated by a piece of soft rubber, and that rubber seems to have compressed, allowing the bars to rattle together when going over sharp bumps.

A new thicker rubber pad was fitted and the clunk going over bumps is almost gone. There is still a (more subtle) metallic noise, more of a squeak than a clunk when the left rear wheel hits a sharp ridge, but that must be something else.

I managed to pick up some non- locking wheel bolts from a breaker. I got one of the locking bolts out using the broken key, but the next one is rounded and I am in the process of drilling it out.

[MattBLancs]

Here is a cutaway of the original fittings:



This is the replacement that I have ordered:



It would be only a bit irritating except for the 4 hours labour to change the part.

To make the design even better, the factory fitted a little heat shield, but instead of putting it between the turbo body and the pipe, they put it on the other side of the pipe, so that heat is reflected back onto it from what would have been the cool side.

I've quoted you in my discussion on the similar and equally poor 1.6 HDi turbo oil feed pipe!

viewtopic.php?t=73096&start=15#p743948

Good cutaway, will have to do the same to my old pipe

[MarkusSA]

I replaced the boost control valve today. It is not nearly as difficult as I had feared.

The exhaust pipe under the engine needs to be removed for access, but I didn't need to remove anything else.

I am not sure that it has fixed all the problems, I took the car for a test drive, and it still seems to surge a bit on acceleration, and it threw a P1385 super knock error code. Other than that it is driving really nicely.

I will attempt to watch the live data as someone else drives the car uphill, as we should be able to keep the throttle stead long enough to geet some readings while the surging is happening.

Hi Mike,

Quick questions:

Is there a Vacuum Ressvoir on the boost controller circuit in the THP 200 engines?
Did you have to calibrate or reset Adaptiv's when installing a new Wastegate actuator?

Regards
Markus

[xantia_v6]

I don't remember a vacuum reservoir, but I would not be surprised if there is one.

The wastegate control system is self calibrating, you don't need to do anything.

Have you checked that the little filter on the atmospheric port of the control valve is not blocked?

[MarkusSA]

I don't remember a vacuum reservoir, but I would not be surprised if there is one.

The wastegate control system is self calibrating, you don't need to do anything.

Have you checked that the little filter on the atmospheric port of the control valve is not blocked?

Hi Mike,

Yes, I have even removed it completely so there is no restrictions, I did a vacuum test on the wastegate, 25 show on the gauge and it holds perfectly.
then I tested the vacuum from pump, all good at 25 also, I run the actuator test via Diagbox and no errors.

Could one of the sensors on the Intake side cause this issue?

Or if the timing is a bit out? I have a funny suspicion that my exhaust cam is a tad out as I get an exhaust camshaft dephaser error, and I have replaced that as well.

So, this over boost is killing me slowly, I have changed everything except for the 2 sensors on the intake side.
I will remove all the pipes once again and replace them with new vacuum pipes just in case there is a flow issue somewhere.

Thanks for the feedback.